Rebuild time
#1
Rebuild time
I was getting ready to install my reman injectors and when i went through to pull glow plugs, out came coolant from one of them so now its engine rebuild time. I figured atleast some reman heads and might as well go through the lower end while I’m at it. Is there a certain brand to stay away from or ones i should be looking at specifically? While ive got it apart i figured did upgrade other parts of it if funds will allow. Ive got a 2000 f350, it sees use a daily driver, tow rig and used for road trip, basically anything i need a vehicle for it gets used. I have a BTS trans in it and a KC38R and was getting ready to swap in some Full Force 205/80 hybrids when i got the bad news. Anyone have a good source for heads and other important parts? Please help
#2
Looked like I can find Motorcraft heads for 600 ish, no more than 800 for other brands it looks like. A rebuild kit from Riff
Raff is 1200 ish and ill be adding more parts, LPOP for sure not sure what else. Is there anything i should definitely be replacing. I’m hoping to get this handled ASAP, its my only vehicle but i can figure out rides for now.
Raff is 1200 ish and ill be adding more parts, LPOP for sure not sure what else. Is there anything i should definitely be replacing. I’m hoping to get this handled ASAP, its my only vehicle but i can figure out rides for now.
#4
It comes with a LPOP? Thats good to know. I figured I’d pull the engine and disassemble it so it can get sent to the machine shop and get everything cleaned up then I’d order the rebuilt kit since I’d need what overbore is done from the machine shop. Are there any brands of head I should be avoiding or leaning towards? It looks like i can get 2 reman motorcraft for under 2k but ill be calling the local IH dealer to see if they can get some reman heads.
#5
Yes sir, when I ordered mine it came with everything including lpop, oil cooler, oil filter, all seals to seal the entire engine and fuel bowl, rear main seal, etc its a complete set, loke I mentioned only thing missing is the piston rod bushings, and IRRC also the head bolts were missing in the set, you might 2ant to souble check with Clay to verify if they are included.
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If your going with 205/80 injectors, I'd use after market valve springs and set them up right if your going that far. What do you mean you got coolant out of one of your injectors? Is it in the crank case? Do you have oil in your coolant bottle? Did you have problems before you pulled it apart? Why the change of injectors, just for more power? Would like more information here.
#12
I saw elsewhere, i think, about going with stronger springs so ill most likely end up going that route. Not my injector, glow plug. I pulled the glow plug out and coolant came gurgling up and down I guess because the injector cup started filling with coolant. I soaked it up with a rag and manually turned the engine over a few times to try and vacate the coolant. I didnt have oil in my coolant bottle but there was a black ring from before i bought the truck, should have seen it coming I guess. The only problems i had was it hated cold starts, wouldn’t start if oil temp was 40 or less, around 50 it still didnt like it but could start with a heavy lope and lots of smoke. I planned on changing injectors because as far as i know and can tell they are the originals with around 350k on them, and yes more power in addition to no cold starts and my mileage kinda sucks.
I was real happy to get to swap out my injectors finally till i saw the coolant, then i got real mad. Didn’t do me any good so now I’m looking into the rebuild and seeing what I can add to it to make it better, CNC 4 line fuel kit, Riff Raff billet intake plenums, valve springs and whatever else is recommended to ensure my engine last a long time and is healthy after the rebuild.
I was real happy to get to swap out my injectors finally till i saw the coolant, then i got real mad. Didn’t do me any good so now I’m looking into the rebuild and seeing what I can add to it to make it better, CNC 4 line fuel kit, Riff Raff billet intake plenums, valve springs and whatever else is recommended to ensure my engine last a long time and is healthy after the rebuild.
#13
Money adds up fast on a rebuild. We can help you speed it for sure. Pull the injectors out and do a pressure test of the cooling system. If there was pressure in the system before you pulled it a part that could be part of it. Put 12 psi in the cooling system and see if it holds. See if it's a cup only. If it was leaking that kind of coolant, your dip stick oil should be a milk shake looking brown. Not saying you don't have a problem, but I'd cover all bases first.
#14
So pull the remaining injectors then pressure test using a standard pump that hooks to the coolant bottle, correct? The 4 cups that I could see looked ok but that doesn’t mean they aren’t messed up. If it does in fact have a cracked head, leaked out the glow plug hole, I figure it’ll get a rebuild kit, heads and upgrade the fuel and oil system on top the motor atleast. As well as the upgraded valve springs as recommended
#15
Yes, that is the way. If it's as you described it will go down quickly, if it doesn't then let it set and look down each cup for bubbles. You can spray them with soapy water. Cracked head means someone got it really hot. One thing we don't have much problems with in the 7.3 crowd is are heads and or gaskets. It does happen but rare. Your oil cooler to is a place for coolant to leak.