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When you checked your cables, did you remove both battery and ground cables to check the contact areas? The contact areas need to be clean down to shiny metal and then coated with dialectic (noalox) grease before you reassemble the cables. You might want to check the connection at the starter motor also while the battery cables are disconnected, a bad connection there will cause the same issues. The starter motors on our trucks tend to want to loosen the bolts holding the starter in, so you might want to check the bolts for tightness as well.
I just checked the battery cables at the battery. Will check ground cables and starter connection. Have some dialectric grease that I will use to coat the connections.
It may just be me, but I have had NO luck on non-ford alternators. The ones from the big box stores do not last nor do the ones I have had rebuilt locally. The same local rebuilders can build any other truck or car alternator except the 97 or so and later ones.
Anyone else have problems with the others lasting as long?
It may just be me, but I have had NO luck on non-ford alternators. The ones from the big box stores do not last nor do the ones I have had rebuilt locally. The same local rebuilders can build any other truck or car alternator except the 97 or so and later ones.
Anyone else have problems with the others lasting as long?
That's a tough call.
When I bought my truck with 49,000 miles on it, the factory OE alternator had already been replaced.
I've been installing Bosch rebuilt units on cars for 28 years now and thier track record is very good for me.
I cannot remember the last time one came back on me.
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Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice.
You cannot explain or explain away the power of God.
I get them from one of two wholesale warehouses.
I don't know if they have a retail counter or not, but you could ask them. www.imcparts.net www.worldpac.com
I think that you will find, however, that PartsGuy Ed will offer a Ford unit for the same cost.
Bosch isn't a cheap knock off part, they are OE suppliers for many of the European vehicles.
__________________
Dan
1999 F550 4x4 ZF6 pulling a Cedar Creek 36RLTS. Lotta mods.
1999 VW Jetta TDI 5speed stick, Titan 520's, CCV, EGR, CAT.
2000 VW Passat 1.8t Tiptronic. ZZOOOOOMMMM!!!
1996 Audi A4 Quattro. Unstoppable in the snow and ice.
You cannot explain or explain away the power of God.
Can you read the voltage again, but this time put your meter on a/c to read the the alternating current component during the start up so we can get a baseline on a new alternator.
Thanks, Nick
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Sometimes I sits an thinks, an sometimes I jus sits.
New alternator is on. Now reading 14V at idle. Good to go (at least until this one dies)!
Thanks,
Scott
Looks like I have the opposite problem now - too much charging voltage! @)#*$)@#*%)!!! Noticed on my drive to work this morning that the battery warning light was lighting up on the dash. However, when I turned the truck off and restarted, it lit off easily. Also noticed that the light wasn't coming on at idle; mainly over 1,200 rpm.
I'll test it again, but looks like I'm headed back to AutoZone for my 3d Duralast Gold alternator in less than a year.
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