1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
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94 F350 semi-extreme Build with pics. *update 10-15-11* New Pro Comp Xtreme A/T Tires
***Update, got a 94 CrewCab F350, 4x4, so the F250 will be being retired, the body parts (bed, fenders, etc) will be being used on the F350 and the 460 swapped from the F250 to the F350***
Here's another one to add to the build threads, will be a running thread on the build/rebuild of a 90 F250 from a reliable but rusty beater into something that looks a lot nicer, but is still capable of handling most anything it would encounter off road and also be totally comfortable at a cruise in or nite on the town.
The base vehicle started out mine in 2002 as a bone stock F250 supercab long bed 4x4, 5.8, E4OD with about 350,000 on the clock (yes, 350K!!) The motor was finally as gone as gone could be and still crank, number 5 piston had been swapped for a cheap parts store special and hand honed to fit, the E4OD was slipping in 2nd and OD was gone, and the TTB 50 wandered the road like Otis looking for another drink at 2am!
The initial build started as a back woods basher, to haul firewood, run the trails, etc, but like many projects, got out of control by the simple words "You can't do that and make it work!!!" Which resulted in the plans of a stock 460/trans being pitched for something a bit more extreme. The intermediate result ended up with a truck that ran 4's at the speed pit, had all the factory options working (windows, cruise, etc) and was capable of bringing in a load of firewood, or pulling a 85 Crown Vic on a trailer down the road at 70mph from E. Ohio to central Indiana.
The final goal now is a full cab swap, new (to me) bed, Dana60 front swap, and fresh paint, chrome, trim and some upgrades along the way.
__________________ Speed costs money! How FAST do you want to go? '04 Excursion EB 4x4, 6.0 PSD, '94 F350 Crew Cab (Emergency Response Vehicle), 4x4, carbed 460 , E4OD, 4.10 Gears; '90 F250, carbed 460, E4OD RIP; '78 Bronco 460, C6 4" lift, 38" Swampers RIP
If I helped, please show some love above http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...2-11-10-a.html
Last edited by L. Ward; 12-19-2010 at 07:55 AM.
Reason: changed vehicle, same parts
Evidently the net doesnt like me today as I keep getting kicked off!! Anyways, while I a getting some of the pics organized the previous one is of my old 78 Bronc with a 460 doing a mud run a few years back
Those pics are from when I first started this thing several years ago. Its been in running form for the past 6? years now, just needing to redo the body and get it all cleaned up again, and yeah, that build did go a bit over the top. I think when I added it all up, I had close to 10K in the initial motor build.
About a month ago the alternator took a dump, so off to the local pull-a-part to get one off of a Taurus I went, while I was there I did the usual scout thru looking for good parts and realized that there were some decent parts floating around so time to spend some money. Over the next couple weeks I scored a bed off of an 88, clip and doors off of a 95 diesel, and cab off of a 93 F150. Unfortunately I didn't grab alot of pics of the parts as they came in but theres a few..
One of the new doors
$130 for the clip and doors (minus the hood as mine is good)
$170 for the super cab, with full interior, wiring harness, extra steering column and gauge assy
$200 for the bed
$40 for the T-gate
Total cost in parts right at $540 and a couple hours sweat at the JY
Some tips when junkyarding BTW,
Take plenty of PB or WD40!!
Look for factory parts! You may find a fender thats been replaced with an aftermarket panel, better off grabbing one that needs a bit of love but is OEM, than a perfect aftermarket, the fit on OEM is always better!
Don't run the other way from fleet vehicles! Pepsi, Coke, etc will almost always use OEM panels when fixing their trucks, also the single stage white paint is TONS easier to sand off compared to the base/clear on non fleet vehicles. The bed took 3 evenings of sanding and I dont know how many discs on the DA to clean the paint to bare metal. Doors and fenders were done in about an hour each and 2 discs to get the single stage Coke fleet white off.
Doing a build up like this assumes you have someplace to do it at. Theoretically it could be done in your driveway, but having an inside place to work is lots nicer, keeps you out of the sun during the day and allows you to work into the evening.
In this case, my work area is a standard 2 bay polebarn with a concrete floor. Nothing overly fancy.
Basic tools will get most of it done, although a good compressor is a must for the sanding and painting!! In this case a 60 Kobalt from Lowes plumbed thru the garage, a Kobalt air tool set from Lowes, and a plate sander, d/a sander, and 3 HLVP guns from Harbor freight. The compressor and air tool set obviously will see plenty of use beyond this rebuild and the other things are plenty cheap at Harbor. The only other addition was a new motor hoist that Harbor had on sale to move the bed around, and that was only because I have a 67 Stang that I am rebuilding into a Shelby clone. It has a 6cyl and was crushed by a tree, so the hoist will see plenty of use on it too!
The 67, yeah its rough, but for $100 I couldnt pass it up, (the vent widows alone go for close to $1000 these days)
Oh, and for those wonder why 3 guns? At $14 a pop for the guns, and $6 for a pressure reg on the end of the guns, $60 gives you dedicated guns for everything... primer, paint and clear
Keep in mind if you decide to plumb your garage area with air using PVC... pressure can be a killer. ALWAYS reduce the air pressure BEFORE it gets to the PVC plumbing. In this case I ran multiple outlets from a filter assembly, that runs through a regulator from Grainger. Setup runs about $60 for the two items, but is adjustable down to low pressure levels for painting, up to a max of 100psi for running the sanders. ALL the fitting are primed before cementing together, with conduit clamps supporting the lines all around. Failure to do that and you will blow airlines and fittings. Over pressure the lines and splitting/shattering is a possibility also!! The reason I bring this up, is the Lowes compressor above cycles at 150PSI, more than enough to over stress a PVC system.
NOTE!! PVC pipe is NOT rated for compressed air and is NOT recommended for that use by the manufacturers!! If you plumb with PVC and blow out a line into the wifes car, or injure yourself, its your own fault. I only list the previous setup to show it can be done with certain precautions!!
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