lol thanks, it does the job and has the space i need. it was a christmas gift from my wife last year

well what i broke was unnecessary, the taper cones do not get removed as long as they are not burnt up. if thats the case then you have to replace the whole thing regardless. all of the synchro bodies have to be pulled off but you dont press them back on. heat them up to 320*F for 15 minutes and they slide right on! same with the bearings, heat them up and then tap them gently back on with the brass hammer/punch

-cutts-

 

even just shifting with the stub it seemed be nice and smooth. i will know better after i get her driveshafts back in and can drive her

i used Transtar, they have an office here in atlanta so i had the kit to me within a day.
Transmission Parts - Transtar Industries Inc.

-cutts-

 

I love the use of the toaster oven!!! that is just so sweet!

I wish I knew more what you were talking about, not sure what the taper is your speaking of, but all is different when you have your hands on things.

Thinking about it though, its kinda scary that only needed 350 (was it?) to get the gears back on and the syncro's.
So, basically if trans over heats, the gears will slip on the shaft.


Was thinking, are they keywayed in any way? Or can you index them any direction when you put them on?

I know absolutelynothing about transmissions.

 

The pieces that require the heat to put back together fit over splines on the shaft. So, no they will never slip due to heat.

 

even if that were the case, they would have to get pretty dang hot!

 

The taper cone is part of the gear that the synchro engages onto. the tapercone is, well, tapered as well as the synchro. hard to explain, and frankly hard to show you in a pic!

lol you heat a manual tranny to 350* you have other issues to worry about other than the synchro bodies coming loose.

no they fit VERY snugly on splines cut into the mainshaft. See the splines in the middle and one set of splines towards the end of the mainshaft in the right hand side of the pic? that is where the synchro hubs go. trust me, even after heating them i still had to tap them down on the splines. when removing the hubs it took a lot of pulling power to get them to come off the splines! there is NO way they would ever come off! you have nothing to worry about! you can index them however you want, they are not specific to a certain location.

 

I was thinking gears more than snycro's. but I see how it works more now.

Just so much easier with things in your hands to understand.

 

If the syncro's are tight fit on to the shaft, and such, and this is the inside of the syncro ring, how does it wear?

I don't quite understand what you mean by trying to separate the taper and that breaking the 3rd gear.

you mean you though the taper disassembled more than in the previous picture you were posting there? or is the taper something else you were referring too?


Also, on another note.
Fluid film makes stainless steel look great.
Shine your Case up with some fluid film, man it will look soooo good.

 

I think I got it from this picture, but everything is strange in pictures, you can't really see whats going on in parts sometimes.

 

Wow! This is a great thread! I really need to do this to mine, but I've never done a tranny before. Maybe next year, I'll get around to it now. Thanks! Green beans sent.

 

thanks guys i appreciate all of the comments!

ok so i took her around the block a couple of times. i kept stopping and crawling underneath to see if i could see anything wrong. so far so great. she shifts a lot easier now already and ino leaks. i am gonna drive her a lot in the next couple of weeks to really help break her in. i assume after she gets broke in she will shift and drive even better. i don't know why but it is a LOT easier to engage the clutch now! i must have done something right, lol

-cutts-

 

Great to hear! It should shift better yet after the new syncros get a chance to break in.

 

My new/used 97' has grinded going into 4th a few times, I wonder how much time I have before a rebuild? Should I change the fluid out to redline at this point? The oil change place said that someone mauled the fill plug, I'm guessing I'll need an EZ out to do it?

Nice Job on the rebuild !

 

Major,
My fill plug was almost completely rounded. I found the smallest size 6-point that I could get on it with the hammer. I heated the plug up until it was cherry red in the middle, pounded the socket on and with a 3ft breaker it spun right out. Hope it might work for you.

 

Ingenuitive Bigred, I'll take a crack at it. What's the best fluids for these ZF's? Redline ATF of any flavor or? Thanks!