Super Duty & Heavy Duty1999 to current Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 Super Duty with diesel V8 and gas V8 and V10 engines
Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.
You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!
I appoligize for the long post, I am simply stating all of what I have found thus far. Someone please help me
As my user name states I am New to Ford, both here in this forum and to owning a (New to me) Ford Truck.
I have a 2003 F250 Extended cab (suicide rear doors) 4x4. Well I do not own it yet I am trying it out right now from a friend of mine! I have always been a Chevy man but I just love these Super Duty trucks and I am really thinking of switching brands. However; This truck seems to have absolutely NO(ZERO) power, It seems to start fine with only a little smoke at startup, idles nice and it has 335336 km (about 208000 miles). When I drive it and pull away easy it shifts beautifully through the gears, when I step into it it seems as though there is no boost from the turbo. When I went onto Youtube all the same trucks you can definitely hear the turbo whistle this one does not! I checked the air filter and actually removed it and took it for a small drive and there was no difference in the performance. I pulled off the plumbing to gain access to the turbo and it spins freely. I started the truck and the turbine turns from the exhaust. I put it back together and also I gently cleaned the Mass-Air flow resisters with a Q-tip(dry) There is still no difference in performance.
I should mention that there is a slight smell of exhaust in the cab perhaps there is a leak in the exhaust before the turbo. I did notice that there is a new fuel filter I think -( it is along the frame under the driver door) perhaps it is a lift pump????( it is all new).
I was recently told to stay away from the 2003 from the local Ford Dealership service manager, he said that they were junk!!!!???? He said that they were just thrown together to get it out quick to compete with Chevy's Duramax.
He told me there was $11000 of warranty work over the trucks life which kind of tells me the updates were done on it.
I am lost on this because I was told that the 6.0 liter is like a scared rabbit off of the line, this one is like a tired lazy turtle!
I hope I can resolve this problem so i can have the buying price adjusted and perhaps switch over from Chevy to Ford!
Sounds a lot like when our turbo took a crap in our '05. $11K in warranty work doesn't tell you anything that could have been a turbo and an oil cooler. As for the '03 he is partially right stay the hell away from them, I don't buy the "they were slapped together" line. A lot of the problem is all the emissions BS Ford had to put on them, Navistar claims fewer warranty claims with their versions minus all the emissions stuff.
I'll say we owned a 6.0L and got rid of it before the factory warranty was up and I wouldn't own one that doesn't have a FORD warranty to back it up.
if you are smelling exhaust into the cab it is most likely due to the y pipe at the back that comes off if the manifolds and to the turbo they are known for leaking at the flex joints...you should be able to see soot on the firewall...take a look from underneath and see if you see black on the y pipe if so replace it...and while the turbo is out I might suggest cleaning the turbo veins as they stick due to carbon buildup...a leak in the system could cause a low boost concern...are any codes present? just be aware if you are going to purchase the truck make sure you get some sort of warranty as diesels aren't cheap.
2001 bolt is right on the money, the y-pipes are the most common oil leaks, and the 6.0 is bad about sticky turbo, I don't recomend any certain additive, but I replaced a worn out unison ring on one that had lived on a fuel additive it's whole life and was clean as a brand new one, but I don't remember what additive the customer said he used. Also if you have a friend or someone who can hook up to the ids for you for little charge have the vgt tested, this can be an easy fix if it is faulty, also check the wiring to the vgt, it plugs in on the turbo, some of them have plastic retainers on the side which get brittle from the heat and will lose one or both retainers causing poor or no connection.
check and see how bad the veins look when the turbo is apart...if it doesnt look like it can be save they sell a chra center housing rotating assembly and get a new unison ring and veins...depending on how bad it is...it makes it alot easier with ids to check things so hopefully you know someone at a dealership if you need any help...they also have an updated turbo drain tube which you can install while the turbo is out...there may be more then one concern but I would start here from what you described and see where it gets you...and I have seen like 6litremachine said the connectors getting brittle and have even seen wires for the vgt rub through or melt together.
If your turbo turns out to be good then check for vacuum leaks and then the high pressure oil pump. If your high pressure oil pump isn't up to snuff then your injectors won't work right and you'll have no power.
My '03 has 126,000 miles on it and it's been good to me so far.
I would definately find out what all has been done to it. Definately make sure that the head bolts have been replaced with a good high quality stud.
Thank you everyone for all of your information. I will read the 6.0 section! I don't think there would be any warranty available. After I put my post up I did go out to the truck and I did check the "Y" pipe, the firewall was all black and to confirm I had my wife start it and I felt around the flex pipe. There was definitely a steady flow of exhaust coming out from it!
So until I can make up my mind about the truck, I cut a piece of Stainless steel and formed it around the flex pipe and fastened it with a hose clamp. I tried it again and it does seem a little better but still no scared rabbit.
A friend of mine also told me that there is an issue with the EGR, he said to eliminate it! Is this an easy task to do? Is cleaning the turbo vanes a very difficult thing to do? I hold two trade tickets one as an automotive journeyman where my diesel background is somewhat limited and limited to the old 6.5 GM crap. I also have a millwright ticket where I am working as an industrial mechanic. I am not afraid to tackle this truck only if it is feasible for me! The S.S. band around the flex pipe almost completely sealed the leak. Only a little better, Still no boost. Next I guess is the $299 "Y" pipe and clean the vanes in the Turbo.
Maybe first I will get it scanned, there is no "service engine soon" light on which I would believe that there is no hard codes in it!
Thanks again to all that left their opinion!
As for the y pipe that is most likely the most difficult task the turbo is easy to clean and for the y pipe you will want to get new bolts and nuts...if the veins are sticking the turbo will not be able to move the unison ring which will cause the size of the turbo to be larger or smaller..as for the egr delete I have never done one but it is likely that the egr is carboned up also which is also a very common problem on 6.0s and will cause a lack of power black smoke concern and the truck will not be able to get out of its own way...it may fight you some but you will just need to take your time if you are going to tackle this... 6.0s run great when they do but the same goes when theres something wrong...most of the newer updates have the parameters so far that most of the time the cel will never set even if there are codes present...the turbo is pretty easy to do also once it is on the bench if you need help I can give you step by step directions...the trucks are great but when they break sometimes theres more then one concern and can get costly...ford warranty is 5 yrs 100miles...if you need any help feel free and welcome to the site.
ya, but usually a hp oil problem will cause extended crank, and I meant the y pipe is most common exhaust leak, not oil leak... also seen some run bad due to broken retainers on ficm harness, causing intermittent or no connection.
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.