The dealership is quoting me a price of $3,500 to do a cab off head gasket replacement & install ARP studs. This is to include all other associated gaskets with the repair. Said that if I had to have and oil cooler & egr cooler I would be looking at another $850 on top of that. What does everyone think, is this a good price from a dealership?

 

Sounds pretty reasonable to me. I just had my head gaskets replaced without the aftermarket addons. I was told that stock is a 30 hour job at $75/hour + all parts. I found a post from someone who did a cab pull and it took him about 3 hours to get it off, so I figure add 8 hours for the cab work. Figure $2850 for labor. The studs are going to cost you from $400 - $470 + shipping. The gaskets, seals, etc. will cost a few hundred, so there you are; $3500 ballpark easy.

 

You don't have any local reputable truck or diesel shops around? There's a local shop around here that will do studs and gaskets for about $1,800 labor + parts. But since I usually take my truck there for all my problems and add-on's that I don't think I can fool with, they told me that if I just get the studs and head gaskets then they'd do the rest for $1000 out the door . I'm saving up now. But I've watched them remove a cab before. Pretty neat. They've done it so many times it takes them less than an hour.

 

Unfortunately, I broke down out of town so didn't have much chance to shop around. I was mainly concerned with a reputable shop and this one came recommended by two other local shops, one being the local dealership. I read enough posts by 6.0L owners who paid $4000 and more that I figured his quotes were about right. In the end, he did cut the labor costs because it took a while for him to get the job done. I ended up out the door for under $3000 and was pretty happy.

 

Yes, I have a local big truck shop (18 wheeler), but not anyone that does very much diesel work on this size truck. Most of the locals take this kind of work to the dealership due to lack of qualified shops. I wish I new someone and even better if I could get in on the job myself.

 

Yeah that would be nice. I wish I could do a lot of that type stuff myself.

 

I'm mechanically inclined and do a lot of work myself, but I'm new to working on these type of diesel engines. I pay someone as a last resort. Unfortunately I'm there.

 

Yeah, I think my wife was glad we broke down away from home... even though it took the shop two weeks to get the job done, she depends on the truck too much to have me "working on it" for the next few months in my "spare time". It sure would have been a good excuse to buy a few new tools, though!

 

When I got my quote I got it from a diesel shop for 2000.
Are you under warranty?
I had mine put in under warranty and I was charged $150 for the extra hour of labor it takes to install the arp studs


Here is the cheapest I have found to arp studs
6.0L Powerstroke Stud Kit


You have all the help (us) for your to do it yourself

 

My shop is doing it for $3663.32 that includes all parts, and labor, for arp studs, black onyx gaskets, new oil cooler, egr delete, sct tuner, all fluids changed, turbo cleaned, and a pinion seal replaced,

 

Had a good diesel shop here in salt lake quote me $1950.00 for ford stock headgaskets alone. and $3278.00 for Black onyx gaskets, ARP studs, new oil cooler and a EGR delete. Local ford shop said $3200.00 for ford stock crap.

 

Anyone in the Wi. area and needs work done on a 6.0, let me know. Usually a 2 night job for ARP and gaskets, oil cooler, turbo cleaning etc.

 

Yeah I'm just out of warranty & need a good deal!!!!!!!!

 

Out of curiosity why does the cab have to come off? If the head gaskets are still good can the studs just be changed one at a time and retorqued as you go? I can see maybe if you blow the gaskets and have to change them too. Why cant the heads be sat on the block with new gaskets and then feed the studs into the block through the head all with out pulling the cab. The reaso I ask is I have heard of people just lifting the cab up a little to get the job done.

 

There's a thread in here somewhere where someone posted how he did exactly that.... He replaced the head bolts with ARP's without pulling the engine - nor the body off the chassis. Do a search.