Hey guys getting ready to pull the cab off the frame..had it 7 weeks now and I feel terribly behind due to work sending me to school for a couple weeks...let me know if you have any pointers..thanx

 

get a couple 2x4 and 4 strong people,or use a hoist of some sort(trees work).Have a plan before you remove by hand,it can be a little akward.

 

I rolled down the windows, put a 2" tow strap around the roof and used a light duty block and tackle tied to the OWSJ of my shop. Piece of cake, but don't drop anything on the roof! Once you get it up, you have the possibility of rolling the chassis out of the way and drop the cab on a skid, use 2X4's under the cab so that it's not resting on the outer sheet metal. You can work on the cab while on the skid, and move it around with a pump truck. Cheers.

 

Remove the complete steering column and pedal assembly if you haven't already. I will guarantee you will catch the cab on them if you don't, especially the pedals. It makes it a lot easier. Take everything out of the cab that you can to lighten it. It helps to remove the weight of the doors. Go slow when lifting, there might be something holding it onto the frame like a unnoticed wire or bracket. If you pulled and there's something attached not only is it going to make it harder you may also kink your roof if your lifting from the roof.

I used a forklift to remove all of the cabs on the trucks I've had, I'm kind of lucky I have one.

I also removed the body of my panel to switch chassis':



It really helps to have help but I've pulled cabs by myself, with my forklift.

 

Thank you guys, I will remove the pedal assy for sure as the shaft is already out...again..thank you

 

Just pulled the cab off my 53 by myself with a chain fall hooked to a trolley crane. (I bought the crane from HF a few years ago cause I don't know that many people I can trust in my garage or that can safely lift things). My doors were off and the glass out so I could run straps just about any where. Much lighter without that stuff, too. I had welded a cross brace between kick panels since my floor is pretty rotten and used the brace and my seat belt attachment bolts to hook up the straps. Was able to get it high enough to roll out the chassis, then set it on one of those new plastic pallets with some casters that let me roll it out for dirty work. Went slow and double checked, no problems. Getting it back on will probably be a whole 'nother story.

 

I would echo paying attention to details and moving slow. I bought a cab for parts from a junkyard but not the F500 chasis and engine that was under neath it. I was working alone and jacking it up on blocks and eventually had it up on 55gal. drums with blocks on top of them with planks running across for stability. Well, once I got it up high enough I got the ol' John Deere out and proceeded to drag the chasis out. Things were going smoothly untill I caught the tip of the rod that holds the breather on one of the cross planks which started a chain reaction which ended up with the cab on the ground. Very sad moment. Fortunately I had gotten it not for the sheet metal but for eveything else inside of it which was still fine.

 

Hardest thing was getting the fasteners off. I had to use a die grinder with a slitter wheel to grind the heads off the bolts inside the cab and then use a punch and big hammer to punch them down through the floor.
One 2X6 and some chain and it came right off.

 

Have you some sort of cart you are putting in on? will be real handy to move around. Lots of folks here have built one, either metal or in my case 2 x 6 on big castors. I moved my cab from frame to cart about 8 times by myself. Brace it if flimsy. Seen above, I made mine long enough for the box to fit, same width as frame.


Good luck

Tom

 

Don't forget to remove the cab mount bolts.