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  #1  
Old 11-03-2010, 09:01 AM
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03 Door Ajar Indicator Switch Replacement Process

To start off, I've been through about three dousings with the WD40, which worked well....until this last time. After emptying two cans, I figured time to open up some doors. Each door was opened up, removed the door panels, disconnected the harness from the door ajar sensor switches, and install a temporary jumper to isolate the problem. In true Murphy fashion, I started at the tailgate and finished up at the drivers door, where, come to find out, the problem existed. Suggestion one would be to start your search at the drivers door, likely the culprit with the most use. I left my temporary jumper in the harness while the switch/sensor was placed on order....no one had it in stock. I would have taken pictures of the initial fiasco, but trying to work after dark and take pictures as well......it didn't happen. Once the switch came in I had a nice sunny day for replacement, so I thought to show the process for those wishing to tackle it themselves....


03 driver's door panel:


Click the image to open in full size.


Start by removing the trim plate around the door latch. There is a small recess along the front edge for placement of small prying devices:


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Once at this point you can easily release the remaining spring clips with gentle prying by hand. Then remove the trim plate out of the way.


Click the image to open in full size.


Next, to remove the switch panel, genntly pry up by hand on the front edge. These are more spring clips, and pull out fairly easy.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Disconnect the harness connectors and place switch panel out of the way. Beneath the door pull handle, there is a trim plate that has another recess notch along the bottom for small prying devices. This will reveal two Torx screws, T15 I believe they were.... remove parts and set aside.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Next, remove the two hex screws at the bottom of the door panel. These are likely Metric, but my 1/4" drive six point SAE set removed them just fine..


Click the image to open in full size.


At the top front, pull out to release the spring clip fasteners:


Click the image to open in full size.


.......and when the door panel still fails to release, it's because you forgot this screw along the back edge of the door panel....


Click the image to open in full size.


Inside of the door panels show it's a simple lift about 3/4" and pull out...


Click the image to open in full size.


Starting at the rear of the door, gently pull the vapor barrier forward, in an attempt to keep it in one piece.


Click the image to open in full size.


Hiding behind the door latch, the orange square item is the connector port on our culprit sensor/switch. The red jumper wire kept lights off while I awaited the parts delivery...


Click the image to open in full size.


Three more torx screws will release the latch for more working room, and I found removing one end of the two latch/lock rods will also help to twist the lock assy around for better access. The lock mechanism rod can be easily released by removing the e-clip shown, and the plastic clamp (green in color) can be pried around to release the latch rod.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Now that we can see things, the switch is actually held in by two spring loaded tabs, the gap between them (pointed too by screwdriver) is where the keyway on the switch locks in place.


Click the image to open in full size.


A quick 1/4 turn should release the switch. I don't know whether this is wear or product improvement, but it looks like the replacement switch has the actuator protruding out slightly farther.


Click the image to open in full size.


Insert new switch in hole, twist until keyway comes to rest between the two tabs, and re-assemble. All ready to turn lights on and off again:


Click the image to open in full size.


Reverse removal process to reassemble door panel. Done.....until next time.
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Last edited by MP&C; 11-03-2010 at 10:48 AM. Reason: steel kant spel
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Old 11-03-2010, 10:23 AM
alloro alloro is offline
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Nicely done and great pictures. Reps points heading your way!

(psst, the link doesn't work.)
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Old 11-03-2010, 10:36 AM
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Link fixed.... thanks!
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Old 11-03-2010, 05:58 PM
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Nice write-up.
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Old 02-05-2012, 09:46 PM
timberwoof timberwoof is offline
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Damn good write up.
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Old 06-09-2013, 08:31 PM
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As an update, I had another incident with the dreaded interior lights staying on, same truck, going on 165K miles. Had to pull up this thread to refresh my memory and try and save some time... and in the process I came up with some clarifications that may help out, so any changes to the previous post will be in Blue Text...

Quote:
Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
To start off, I've been through about three dousings with the WD40, which worked well....until this last time. After emptying two cans, I figured time to open up some doors. Each door was opened up, removed the door panels, disconnected the harness from the door ajar sensor switches, and install a temporary jumper to isolate the problem. In true Murphy fashion, I started at the tailgate and finished up at the drivers door, where, come to find out, the problem existed. Suggestion one would be to start your search at the drivers door, likely the culprit with the most use. I left my temporary jumper in the harness while the switch/sensor was placed on order....no one had it in stock. I would have taken pictures of the initial fiasco, but trying to work after dark and take pictures as well......it didn't happen. Once the switch came in I had a nice sunny day for replacement, so I thought to show the process for those wishing to tackle it themselves....


03 driver's door panel:


Click the image to open in full size.


Start by removing the trim plate around the door latch. There is a small recess along the front edge for placement of small prying devices:


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Once at this point you can easily release the remaining spring clips with gentle prying by hand. Then remove the trim plate out of the way.


Click the image to open in full size.


Next, to remove the switch panel, genntly pry up by hand on the front edge. These are more spring clips, and pull out fairly easy.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Disconnect the harness connectors and place switch panel out of the way. Beneath the door pull handle, there is a trim plate that has another recess notch along the bottom for small prying devices. This will reveal two Torx screws, T15 I believe they were.... remove parts and set aside.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Next, remove the two hex screws at the bottom of the door panel. These are likely Metric, but my 1/4" drive six point SAE set removed them just fine..


Click the image to open in full size.


At the top front, pull out to release the spring clip fasteners:


Click the image to open in full size.


.......and when the door panel still fails to release, it's because you forgot this screw along the back edge of the door panel....


Click the image to open in full size.


Inside of the door panels show it's a simple lift about 3/4" and pull out...


Click the image to open in full size.


Starting at the rear of the door, gently pull the vapor barrier forward, in an attempt to keep it in one piece.


Click the image to open in full size.


Hiding behind the door latch, the orange square item is the connector port on our culprit sensor/switch. The red jumper wire kept lights off while I awaited the parts delivery...


Click the image to open in full size.


Three more torx screws (T25) will release the latch for more working room. The switch is installed vertically from the bottom, and about a 1/4 turn holds it in place. To release, push the latch slightly forward in the door to provide some room for rotation, and rotate the switch toward the jamb.. You may find this easier after the harness connector has been removed to allow easier rotation. It only takes about 1/4 turn, and pull downward.


(removed this step....and I found removing one end of the two latch/lock rods will also help to twist the lock assy around for better access. The lock mechanism rod can be easily released by removing the e-clip shown, and the plastic clamp (in color) can be pried around to release the latch rod. )


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Click the image to open in full size.


Now that we can see things, the switch is actually held in by two spring loaded tabs, the gap between them (pointed too by screwdriver) is where the keyway on the switch locks in place.


Click the image to open in full size.


A quick 1/4 turn should release the switch. I don't know whether this is wear or product improvement, but it looks like the replacement switch has the actuator protruding out slightly farther.


Click the image to open in full size.


Insert new switch in hole, twist until keyway comes to rest between the two tabs, and re-assemble. All ready to turn lights on and off again:


Click the image to open in full size.


Reverse removal process to reassemble door panel. Done.....until next time.

Now that I had done it before, and leaving the latch/lock rods alone, this was about a 15 minute job, including the test drive..
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Old 06-25-2013, 07:54 PM
Bobbo0936 Bobbo0936 is offline
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Like Wow!

Just incredible pics and explanations on this bugger of a problem. I had the panel off (easy enough), but getting to the sensor is well, another story. We had 100 of photocells, microswitches and sensors and my Anheuser plant, I don't think I've seen a design as poor as this, both in terms of access and longevity.
My greatest thanks for your excellent work here
Bob R.
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  #8  
Old 07-06-2013, 06:51 PM
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Man_tlac83 Man_tlac83 is offline
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This is good to know. More then likely it is in the same place as my 98. I also got feed up with WD40 mess. I ended up just removing the fuse from the inside fuse box under the driver dish. Lights still work manually but that's about it. Thanks for this awesome write-up I know what I'm in for. I
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Old 07-06-2013, 06:51 PM
 
 
 
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