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Old 11-01-2010, 05:09 PM
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greythorn3
turbo pedestal orings replacement

ok folks, thinking about tackling the leaking orings in the turbo pedestal! how hard is it and what other items should i have on hand to replace besides the pedestal orings? any common things brake alone the way? cant have the vehicle down for more then 2 days max. if its longer then that i will just have to let them leak tell spring.. about a quart a month or a little less.


Thanks
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:16 PM
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Just make sure it is not your EBPV actuator that doing the leaking and if it is, make sure you have the parts on hand to either rebuild or gut the pedestal while you have it down.

Even under worse case, it should take less than a day.
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:40 PM
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greythorn3
Quote:
Originally Posted by DieselOrings View Post
Just make sure it is not your EBPV actuator that doing the leaking and if it is, make sure you have the parts on hand to either rebuild or gut the pedestal while you have it down.

Even under worse case, it should take less than a day.

i have another thread the we have identified the leaking orings, heres a link to it http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/96...-driveway.html , i got some cross over stuff to install also while im there and the plenum reinforcements and such from clay


im switching to that rotella synthetic that cost mr 27$ a gallon and dont wanna be dumping that coin on the driveway, plus i hear synthetic might make the leak even worse!


i may have got orings from you even. i dont think it would be to bad to gut the backpressure exh valve if its bad, since i have taps and pipe plugs onhand.
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:11 PM
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timmyboy76 seadooya
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With the weather conditions, you live in, and from what i've read/unsterstood, of how the EBPV works, not sure, if it would be good to dump the exhaust valve.

2 PITA problems i came across, were, aligning the turbo to the "baby's butt", and removeing the clamp, to gety turbo off, the baby's butt....up-pipe collector
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:14 PM
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greythorn3
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Originally Posted by timmyboy76 View Post
With the weather conditions, you live in, and from what i've read/unsterstood, of how the EBPV works, not sure, if it would be good to dump the exhaust valve.

2 PITA problems i came across, were, aligning the turbo to the "baby's butt", and removeing the clamp, to gety turbo off, the baby's butt....up-pipe collector

any tricks to getting the clamp off or the collector?
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Old 11-01-2010, 11:53 PM
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For some tips on this job, look at my album "Turbo R&R". I found that getting the clamp off the baby's butt was the hard part. I made a couple of tools to do it. One was a "slide hammer" made from a hook-type pry bar (cheap Harbor Freight bar with an old diesel wrist pin for a hammer) and a bent piece of 1/2" rod for a drift to knock the other side of the clamp loose. The trick is to make contact with the "v" part of the clamp, not the outer sheet metal part.

I found that it was much easier to work if you pull the passenger side lift eye off using an impact wrench with extensions and wobbly sockets. It gives you more room to access the EBPV linkage and downpipe.

I used a double layer of corrugated cardboard over the top of the engine as a cushion when laying on top of the engine. It protected the engine parts and also provided a little padding for me. A topside creeper would make this much easier. I found one for $50.00 off the local Craigslist since then!

P.S. My avatar is the DC-3/C-47 I flew while picking up salmon at Big Creek, north of Egegik.
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Last edited by JockD; 11-01-2010 at 11:57 PM. Reason: Add P.S.
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Old 11-02-2010, 12:03 AM
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greythorn3
Quote:
Originally Posted by JockD View Post
For some tips on this job, look at my album "Turbo R&R". I found that getting the clamp off the baby's butt was the hard part. I made a couple of tools to do it. One was a "slide hammer" made from a hook-type pry bar (cheap Harbor Freight bar with an old diesel wrist pin for a hammer) and a bent piece of 1/2" rod for a drift to knock the other side of the clamp loose. The trick is to make contact with the "v" part of the clamp, not the outer sheet metal part.

I found that it was much easier to work if you pull the passenger side lift eye off using an impact wrench with extensions and wobbly sockets. It gives you more room to access the EBPV linkage and downpipe.

I used a double layer of corrugated cardboard over the top of the engine as a cushion when laying on top of the engine. It protected the engine parts and also provided a little padding for me. A topside creeper would make this much easier. I found one for $50.00 off the local Craigslist since then!

P.S. My avatar is the DC-3/C-47 I flew while picking up salmon at Big Creek, north of Egegik.

so is the clamp sticking shut or is it the nut on the clamp thats the problem? couldnt i use a long pry bar and a hammer to tap on it if the clamp is just getting stuck on itself?
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Old 11-02-2010, 02:53 AM
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The clamp wedges itself tight to the two flanges. The nut comes off easily, but penetrating oil helps lube the threads. I removed the nut and t-bolt completely, but couldn't get the clamp to budge until I applied force to the ends in order to make it break loose from it's grip on the joint. There is no room to get at it with a hammer to tap it loose. I got one end to come loose with my "slide hammer", but the other side wouldn't loosen up because the clamp has slots to make it flexible. My method is essentially tapping it with a hammer - I just made some tools so I could hammer in the best spot.

You can see the downpipe clamp better, and if you take it off first you can see what you need to do to break the turbo loose from the baby's butt.
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Old 11-02-2010, 03:26 AM
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greythorn3
im suprized they dont make things a little easier to get at.
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Old 11-02-2010, 05:26 AM
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greythorn3
wonder if its possible it could just be loose causing the pedistal to leak? how many bolts hold squish that oring down?
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Old 11-02-2010, 07:06 AM
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wonder if its possible it could just be loose causing the pedistal to leak? how many bolts hold squish that oring down?
Pedestal-to-block = 4 bolts
Turbo-to-pedestal = 2 bolts

For getting the v-band clamp off the turbo-baby's butt junction, I'd spray PB Blaster on it THOROUGHLY while warm (not hot!), remove the nut completely, then I use a hammer and flat blade screwdriver to wedge under the clamp and gently pry it off. It's a pain no matter how you do it, but it works.
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Old 11-02-2010, 07:19 AM
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anyone have a part # for that clamp? Pry bars and hammers = busted clamp
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Old 11-02-2010, 07:34 AM
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Quote:
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anyone have a part # for that clamp? Pry bars and hammers = busted clamp

Clay in my signature has them under oem/misc. parts. Ed would be able to help you out as well. If you need it faster the dealer can look it up.
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Old 11-02-2010, 01:26 PM
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greythorn3
what im thinking is i better wait tell i get another clamp, i might as well order that dang boot kit from clay also so i can replace them with the new ones while im in there since i gotta wait for parts anyhow.

i will probably just try to tighten the 2 bolts that hold the turbo to the pedestal this weekend and change to the synthetic, then when my package gets in change the orings.
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Old 11-02-2010, 10:55 PM
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greythorn3
i cant find that dang clap on RIFF RAFF!! clay help!! also whats the deal with the tclamps? are they worth it or should i stick to stock? i had a hard time even getting a socket on my intercooler coots by the rad let alone getting my fist in there to turn a T

Help i need to get this stuff on order asap.

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Old 11-02-2010, 10:55 PM
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