havent started yet waiting on parts to come in mail..

there is exhaust donuts? i didnt think ford used them

 

Yup they donuts on the up pipes I used felpro donuts a lot thicker and fits alot better than OEM. I went with donuts instead of belowed up pipes because that was the cheaper way for now. Felpro donuts cost under $4.00 .

 

got any part numbers for them? i can add them to my collection.. but i dont think i will be getting that far into it this time.. but would be nice to have onhand for next time.

 

i think he is talking about the chevy donuts...they are the cheap soft exhaust donuts for a small block chevy..you should be able to stick your thumb nail into it...you want the soft kind so they will squeeze together for a tight fit....grease them up with high temp anti seeze to help them seal tight as you clamp them down...you also need to make sure your pipes are in good shape where the donut sits...for what its worth the stock donuts are like 20 bucks...

 

u guys think its worth doing the donuts while im in there with the pedistal orings?

 

for the price and the amount of work it takes and if the pipes are in good shape i would...other wise you will need to pul every thing have apart now again...

 

Are they leaking? If they aren't I wouldn't touch them, but maybe you mentioned that earlier on and I missed it.

 

I just did the Turbo and pedestal O-rings and rebuilt the turbo with a WW wheel wile it was off.

First I hit it with PB Blaster several times a day and drove the truck in between for three days my clamps popped off when I loosed them !!!
The first owner says this truck has never had the Turbo off.

I had trouble with the pedestal o-rings staying in place so I made two guide pins to line it up, that worked great.

I also removed the plastic pins that hold the wire loop to the front of the cowl for more clearance this make removing the turbo much easier.

I looked at your other thread you posted, and in one of the photos I can see you have a leak on one of the o-rings in the fitting on the head, where the line from the HPOP connects to the head ! . That is where my leak was ( the o-ring in the fittiing ), it ran along the plenum and into the valley. making me think that it was the turbo. No more Leaks.

The job took 8 hours and my boost went from 13 lbs max to 23 lbs and I now can here the turbo for the first time since I got the truck 4 years ago

PS thanks Clay for your help
Bill

 

your gonna want to tie off the exhaust downpipe clamp to something, or it'll travel down the exhaust. PITA to fetch ur back up.

Yup, i screwed up, by not ordering the intake boots, when i summitted my order to Clay, cuz the stockers are already "seeping". How..? not sure, since i've done the CCV mod.

 

not leaking that i can see

i eill be pb blasting beforehand like u, where u get that oring from?



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great idea! do i need to support the exh pipe also?

 

I got the HPOP o-rings from clay and Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines the kit only has o-rings for one end of the hose so I got extras from the international dealer in LV NV. I also had to replace one of the fittings on the driver side head the internal locking ring was deformed ( $20.00 ) also got new hoses $77.00 each. The ford dealer wanted $189.00 each.
I did not put on just got for spares.The new style fitting is on the right and is compatible with the old style hoses.

I covered all electrical with saran-rape and used the presser washer, its real clean now !, made it easier to find the leaks.

 

thats the same fitting? how in the heck do you get the hose off of it? i dont see any threads!

 

Here is PDF that tells how to make a tool

 

thanks! looks like you could use a forked screwdriver or prybar maybe, i dont think i have any skiny wrenches like that..

will i have a problem starting since it says air will enter the highpressure oil? also how high is this pressure? is there a way to bleed it off so it doesnt explode out of the line when i take it loose?

 

HPOP connector tool by Mueckster:

Quoted from Mueckster's post:

What I Found

(Photo of Bicycle Tire Change Kit by "Bell" with a 15mm open end wrench made of stamped sheet steel)

I was getting some oil in the automotive section of Wally World last weekend and came across this while passing by the bicycle tire repair stuff.

I filed a bevel on the end of the 14mm side. It seems to work well for removing HPO lines. I tried it on the connections, but did not remove the line from the fitting. It pushed back the sleeve to release the clip fine. The tire repair kit is $3.47 + tax and is an optional tool for HPO line removal. Most people should be able to locate one of these kits, if they need a a removal tool.
Just thought I'd share this with ya'll.