Miles on your ranger...list
#751
99 4x4 3.0 5spd 88,000
86 4x4 2.9 5spd 198,000 when I sold it only real problem was the tranny it
was just a pos was rebuilt three times and need it again when I sold it.
But I do have to say I drove that old girl hard on and off road and she never
once left me on the side of the road anywhere.
86 4x4 2.9 5spd 198,000 when I sold it only real problem was the tranny it
was just a pos was rebuilt three times and need it again when I sold it.
But I do have to say I drove that old girl hard on and off road and she never
once left me on the side of the road anywhere.
#752
#753
I bought an 84 Ranger 2.3 in 1990, in 1992, the PVC hose came off the PVC valve and then I had a mess. It began drinking oil...Removed the engine, #1 cyl was burned black, piston was burnt, what a mess. Bearings were stamped 1987, which led me to believe that the engine had been reubuilt in 87, but they didn't bore it to make that #1 cylinder round again. I put a 75 MustangII engine in it, it had been bored and rebuilt...but #1 hole still was not perfect. Oh well, I put a clamp on the PVC when I put it together. Ran good for 50k, I put in a rebuilt because I was afraid the old engine was going bad. Should have saved my money, but that's another story. I'd love to know how many miles were on it when I got it...obviously they ran it hard. I really enjoyed that Ranger, called it my offroad racing ranger.
#758
#760
#762
Trying to die but I won't let it...
My 1992 Ranger's not going to keel over yet, but my overrated ignition problem sure is heading it in this direction. It's got 207k original miles, and while originally a southern truck, it now resides in SE Michigan.
It needs a quart of oil - usually add 5w-30 - every 3 weeks to a month. "If its not leaking, somethins' wrong... as the Sikorsky motto goes" - that's my engine- 2.3L, 4 cyl. My truck's done me well for $1000 4 yrs ago. I shouldn't complain.
I replaced both ignition coils last March and again just recently, the plugs and wires last Spring, the Throttle Pos. Sensor and EGR valve not far behind that. My "check engine" light is still on while the front ignition coil does not fire the left 2 ports. I've swapped one of the non sparking plug wires from a non firing port to it's neighboring fired port with a resultant spark to the wire which tells me its not the wire or the plug. I've swapped the EEC with another from the salvage yard - no joy.
What happens is -
when engine is started, it runs like its missing; it can be driven but sounds out of tune. If driven approximately 15 or so miles it sounds like it drops down to 2 cyls and I lose all sorts of power with an accompanying loud afterfire. This induces the red hot catyl. converter. The force of the afterfiring blew out the end of my muffler too.
If I keep driving, sometimes, momentarily, power will kick back in, but only temporarily.
There's another email out there I looked at today sounding quite like my predicament.
We tried a scanner yesterday, however, since the afterfiring occured, the test couldn't be completed.
With more digging, it sounds like I've overlooked the ignition module on the intake - which I forgot to note that I had off a couple weeks ago to clean up and inspect.
Tomorrow I hope to revisit the salvage yard and retrieve the ignition module - I'll see if I can find a clue with a voltage check from the module plugs - we'll see.
The engine computer was quite corroded inside and out - surely I thought that was it. Here's to fixing the cello.
It needs a quart of oil - usually add 5w-30 - every 3 weeks to a month. "If its not leaking, somethins' wrong... as the Sikorsky motto goes" - that's my engine- 2.3L, 4 cyl. My truck's done me well for $1000 4 yrs ago. I shouldn't complain.
I replaced both ignition coils last March and again just recently, the plugs and wires last Spring, the Throttle Pos. Sensor and EGR valve not far behind that. My "check engine" light is still on while the front ignition coil does not fire the left 2 ports. I've swapped one of the non sparking plug wires from a non firing port to it's neighboring fired port with a resultant spark to the wire which tells me its not the wire or the plug. I've swapped the EEC with another from the salvage yard - no joy.
What happens is -
when engine is started, it runs like its missing; it can be driven but sounds out of tune. If driven approximately 15 or so miles it sounds like it drops down to 2 cyls and I lose all sorts of power with an accompanying loud afterfire. This induces the red hot catyl. converter. The force of the afterfiring blew out the end of my muffler too.
If I keep driving, sometimes, momentarily, power will kick back in, but only temporarily.
There's another email out there I looked at today sounding quite like my predicament.
We tried a scanner yesterday, however, since the afterfiring occured, the test couldn't be completed.
With more digging, it sounds like I've overlooked the ignition module on the intake - which I forgot to note that I had off a couple weeks ago to clean up and inspect.
Tomorrow I hope to revisit the salvage yard and retrieve the ignition module - I'll see if I can find a clue with a voltage check from the module plugs - we'll see.
The engine computer was quite corroded inside and out - surely I thought that was it. Here's to fixing the cello.
#765