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Old 10-30-2010, 08:35 PM
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injector cups

Can some one tell me what causes injector cups to crack or leak? I recently took mt 02 F250 7.3 in to have the rad flushed and refilled. It has the gold antifreeze from the factory with 140 thousand KLMs on the odometer. When they were draining the old stuff out they called me in to the shop to show me how much diesel fuel was in the antifreeze. After seeing that they put the old stuff back in and refered me to a local shop that specializes in diesel injectors and turbos. I had no idea what had happened because the level in the degas bottle never changed in 8 years. Now this specialty shop is telling me that I may have 1 or more cracked injector cups that would cause this problem. I was told that it will cost anywhere from $1500.00 to $2000.00 to repair depending on if the cups can be removed with or without removing the heads. I have been using a Diablo Sport tuner for 2 years now on the 85 performance tune for better milage. could this have caused my problems or is some one trying to bleed me from some hard earned money. Please Help
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:08 PM
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they are thin brass cups. they just crack sometimes. if they think they have to remove the heads find another shop.
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:15 PM
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First you haven't had a cracked cup for 8 years. Second, other than a defective cup or it's installation heat can cause them to crack. If the tuner was causing excess EGTs and you weren't caution that could have caused the cup to crack.

Replacing the cup yourself is the way to go. There is no need to pull the head. The hard part is finding out which cup is cracked. See HERE for some info. Running a CCT and rotaional velocity test may help you narrow it down to one cup.

I replaced all 8 for less then $150.00. Injector Cup R&R. Replacing just one would not be all that difficult. If I had a bad one I would only replace that one. I replaced all mine because I was running ELC in an E99 and was replacing all the injectors as well.
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Old 10-30-2010, 09:39 PM
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As stated earlier. If you are capable of removing some bolts, then you can do this yourself for a few hundred. If not, pay the shop a couple of thousand and hope they don't come at you for more money later.

Drive the truck home, get the cups and removal tool from Clay and just do it yourself.
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:07 PM
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Thanks for the help guys. First off I dont have the mechanical ability or the facilitys to do such a repair. the shop that is doing the work has a good reputation with some big rig truckers that I know if that helps. With the programmer set at 85 hp I have rarely seen the EGTs go over 1000f . I dont race my truck. When I work it hard Im hauling a 300 gallon water tank or a truck and trailer load of firewood and thats in the 40 hp trailer tow setting. The guys at the repair shop said that I may have waited too long to change the antifreeze and that I should change from the gold stuff to the green and do a flush and fill every 2 years. I drive about 25000 KMs every year all seasons. The truck came with gold but i have read other guys threads where they changed to green with no problems. Any ideas on this?
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danman979 View Post
The truck came with gold but i have read other guys threads where they changed to green with no problems. Any ideas on this?

You can go with whatever color anti-freeze you want as long as you flush your engine good before switching colors. If you go with green, you'll need to buy some test strips and test SCA levels every couple of months to make sure you're withing the allowable tolerance.
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Old 10-30-2010, 10:32 PM
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thanks for the reply. I live in a small town in Ontario Canada so my choice of repair shops is very limited. I will let the shop do a flush and fill with green antifreeze and get some test strips from the local Napa dealer. I will find out on Monday what the bill is going to be.
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