I will, Thx, he had the SEIC instructions also printed out from Ford....I guess he thought it was too time consuming????

 

^^^ ditto ^^^

What the heck...that is why published instructions.


biz

 

Yeah...I aint handy with wiring stuff, so gonna be 3 trips to the dealer to get it done,lucky...I didn't have to pay for this one, probably wont the next one,but not having it with lows coming below zero at night,and not having it,sucks

 

If it's cold enough your truck will automatically high idle with no mods at all. I wouldn't worry about the cold weather.

 

Yeah, but after it warms, it goes down to 6 rpm, if its freezing rain I want to let it idle longer but don't want to risk the " wet stacking", or even running the a/c in the summer when it isn't cold enough to idle higher

 

Hi guys, this write up is awesome!! Im having trouble though. I hooked everything up per instructions with the 50K pot and its not working even with P brake applied. I used AUX#3 also. Nothing happened when I flipped the switch but when I started turning the **** the pot itself, the idle seemed to dip like I introduced a stumble, then came back up then no changes. Couldnt duplicate it again. I also let the p brake off and then reapplied, I got the big WRENCH Icon on the screen. Any ideas whats UP?
I have a 2013, is that the issue?

Pot is hooked to: white/brown stripe,- Green wire , -and Gray/Violet stripe

The Yellow/Green stripe wire is hooked to AUX3 wire

 

Double check your wiring vs the pics on the first page of the thread here.

If your wiring is right then try turning the pot maybe a quarter turn up from its lowest setting before flipping the switch/setting the brake. I know on my truck it the pot is "out of range" per se (either too high or too low), the truck with fault out of the SEIC to protect itself.

 

I got all the connections correct as far as wires go but I must have had a bad crimp somewhere because I cut it all out and started over and got it to work just fine.

Those wires are a pain to get to but not as bad as the upfitter wires..lol

 

No more bad crimps with either of these.

 

Those look top notch and expensive. I think the crimp issue was more the location and contorting my decrepit body around so user error rather than my tools. I usually solder and shrink all connections but not up in there.

 

Just signed up on here and have been reading through everyone’s issues. I just tried this yesterday on my 2014 F-250SD.
AUX4 to (yellow w/green)
Then Solid green and White/Brown go together. Parking brake is on.
I don’t have a resistor or anything on it is just wired together. It will not work no matter what. Do I have to have a resistor on the green and white/brown wire for this to work?

 

It will not work without a Resistor.

Input Resistor
ALL modes (SEIC, PTO, BCP) require usage of an input resistor. The resistor value may be obtained in table "B".

Table B

RPM Ohms Volts
SEIC Mode
900 51000 0.400
1000 36000 0.590
1200 20000 0.971
1400 12000 1.352
1600 9100 1.733
1800 6200 2.114
2000 4700 2.495
2200 3300 2.876
2400 2400 3.257
2600 1800 3.638
2800 1100 4.019
3000 680 4.400
RPM Ohms Volts
Split-Shaft Mode
700 51000 0.400
800 36000 0.574
1000 20000 0.922
1200 13000 1.270
1400 10000 1.617
1600 7500 1.965
1800 5600 2.313
2000 4300 2.661
2200 3000 3.009
2400 2200 3.357
2600 1600 3.704
2800 1100 4.052
3000 680 4.400

 

Recently upgraded to a 18' f550 service body. Totally different to do high idle in 17 and up than the first gen 6.7s. found it much easier on my 13 and 16. Although I do appreciate these 3 pass through wires but do not understand why at least one cannot travel to the drivers side where aux. sw wires are located.....

 

I did this on my truck a couple of years ago and it works great! My wife has COPD and breathes best in cool, dry air. If I need to run into a store or refuel while she is in the truck, I flip up the switch and press down the emergency brake. I installed a dash mounted potentiometer, but I usually leave it set for about 1200 RPM. Every time I turn it on, the engine stumbles and then increases in RPM. Seems to be a normal thing.

 

I know this is an old thread but I am having issues

2016 F550
The dam thing has a auto shut down timer and to keep it running and to prevent wet stacking I did the high idle mod

Bought some 20k resistors
found the winging under dash by e-brake
spliced the Brown wire for up fitter switch #4 to the yellow/green wire
then put PTO RPM green wire to PTO reference white/brown with 20k resistor

Truck is up to operating temp, e-brake on and up fitter switch 4 on.

NOTHING. I can hear a relay click but nothing.
Checked fuse for the switch(15 amp #2 position at passenger kick panel) it is good.

Any suggestions?