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  #121  
Old 12-19-2010, 12:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
Always go by what the cam manufacturer says. Go on their site or contact them via phone. Use a good break-in oil or additive. You need two guys there, one to watch the engine, and one to watch the gauges. Set up a good fan to blow through the radiator to prevent over heating. Remember that on initial start up your temp gauge will probably go over 200--210 before the thermostat opens and you breathe a sigh of relief!

Run with pure water first time around, until you're sure all the hoses, etc. are water-tight, then drain rad. after a couple of days and add antifreeze. When you change the break in oil, keep the filter for a month after in case anything goes wrong. If it does, that filter will hold valuable clues as to what happened.

Pump/prime the oil system with a drill motor prior to start up, making sure you are getting oil to all rockers. Set engine at TDC before starting, and retard about 10 degrees. Mark distributor on block for a reference. If you're using a MSD or another high power ignition, hook your timing light to a seperate vehicle battery, stand on a piece of wood, and wear rubber gloves, unless you want to risk tasting the fillings in your teeth!! Believe me, it is no joke.

Good luck.
This is great info F-250.
Im not trying to hi-jack this thread,Im wondering if AB broke that cam in proper.
I feel his pain.
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  #122  
Old 12-20-2010, 11:47 AM
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Heya everyone,
No progress as of yet, since I'm just waiting on funds to move forward. But I'd thought I'd say that I took a lot of care in making sure I broke the cam in correctly and as to Comp's instructions. I used a lot of cam break-in lube, held the RPMs at 2000ish for a good 20 minutes, full oil change before and after, etc.

My screwup was using the wrong washers when I tried to adjust for my worn out rocker arms, which jammed up the engine and damaged some lifters.

On another note, a couple months ago, I picked up another Bronco with a 300 in it. Had an Offy C with a 600 cfm carb, and open headers. LOUD. This weekened, I put a new exhaust on it that quieted it down dramatically, and it was the first time I was ever able to hear the engine. Well, it is smoother and quieter than the 300 in my 81 has EVER been. I just couldn't get over how smooth as glass the engine was. It was a real eye opener that my engine's never been as top notch as I thought it was. Thinking my rocker arms are just toast and the new springs and lifters really made it evident.

I'd love to take the head off and fully rebuild it, but that just isn't going to happen at the moment. I don't have the money for it, and we need two vehicles so my wife can find a job now that she graduated from college last week. (YEAHH!!) Maybe this summer it'll get due justice with a head rebuild, but in the mean time, I need to get it back on the road.


I'm thinking new rocker arms, lifters, and pushrods and see what happens. If it fixes the problem, so be it. If not, I'll be needing them anyway, so it's not money wasted.
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  #123  
Old 12-20-2010, 12:37 PM
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Aren't you supposed to leave the break-in oil in for 500 miles?
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  #124  
Old 12-20-2010, 03:33 PM
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Yeah, the break in lube went in with the install and the cam break in. Then the break in oil went in after the immediate oil change (filled with break in lube and whatever).
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  #125  
Old 12-20-2010, 04:30 PM
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What's the reason for BBC roller rockers working on a 300 when SBC ones won't?
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  #126  
Old 12-20-2010, 06:22 PM
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Fitment. Size matters.
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  #127  
Old 12-21-2010, 12:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
Fitment. Size matters.
Awwww, you know me. I need info.

What about them doesn't fit? Do they bind in some way? They have the same ratio and stud size as the others.
Not long enough to reach far enough to put the rocker tip on the top of the valve perhaps?
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  #128  
Old 12-21-2010, 12:36 PM
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I don't know why the sbc rockers don't fit. I assume the dimensions just don't fit...possibly the p.rod hits the head, it won't reach the valve, etc. I know the price, like everything sbc, is attractive.

I followed what I had read on Fordsix. One of the FAQ is regarding roller rockers. They even have photos showing the bbc rockers, IIRC, compared to the Harland Sharp.

With mine I can see how it is designed to get the higher lift/ratio: the pushrod end is slightly shorter, thereby bringing the p.r. closer to the head (or end of slot in head), so it moves the v. end more with same lift at cam.

The auto Swap meet is coming here the first weekend in January. I could pick you up a set and mail them to you if you want, text a photo, you say yea or neigh, and done. You have to do the math, but with your cam, it would bump your lift into the ... mid .480's? Which is about that of the Clifford 264 cam. Will your springs work with the high lift?


January 9th and 30th is the auto swap meet. Google Topping auto swap meet, or Veterans stadium auto swap meet. When I was there and bought my r.rockers, my buddy found a set for $20, but they didn't look as nice, so I bought the Crane ones. Of course no one ever sees them, so I could of saved $80!!
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  #129  
Old 12-28-2010, 04:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F-250 restorer View Post
I don't know why the sbc rockers don't fit. I assume the dimensions just don't fit...possibly the p.rod hits the head, it won't reach the valve, etc. I know the price, like everything sbc, is attractive.

I followed what I had read on Fordsix. One of the FAQ is regarding roller rockers. They even have photos showing the bbc rockers, IIRC, compared to the Harland Sharp.

With mine I can see how it is designed to get the higher lift/ratio: the pushrod end is slightly shorter, thereby bringing the p.r. closer to the head (or end of slot in head), so it moves the v. end more with same lift at cam.

The auto Swap meet is coming here the first weekend in January. I could pick you up a set and mail them to you if you want, text a photo, you say yea or neigh, and done. You have to do the math, but with your cam, it would bump your lift into the ... mid .480's? Which is about that of the Clifford 264 cam. Will your springs work with the high lift?

January 9th and 30th is the auto swap meet. Google Topping auto swap meet, or Veterans stadium auto swap meet. When I was there and bought my r.rockers, my buddy found a set for $20, but they didn't look as nice, so I bought the Crane ones. Of course no one ever sees them, so I could of saved $80!!
Forgot to get back to you on this after heading out of town for Christmas.

Thanks for the info. Bummer on the SBC rocker arms not fitting. The price is much more reasonable.

I'm curious if the 1.7 would work with my setup. I don't know. Do you think the higher lift would make it a little radical for a daily driver? Start eating gas mileage? As for the extra lift, I don't know on my springs. They're Comp springs, but I don't know what their maximums would be. How would one tell?

A good deal on rocker arms would be difficult to pass up though. Thanks for looking!
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  #130  
Old 12-28-2010, 07:48 PM
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Regarding the 1.7 rockers: Don't bother. I thought they gave a bit more power when I first changed them, but since then I think about them every time I stop at the gas station. IMO they just aren't worth the complications which arise with the swap: springs, v.seals, mileage, and the v/rocker/p.rod geometry. The oem rockers are much more forgiving, accepting.


Unless they come out with a clear v.cover, no one ever knows they are there. When I swap my cam I will probably be selling mine and trying to get the Harland Sharpe 1.6 type.
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  #131  
Old 02-28-2011, 09:31 PM
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Well, to all who have been reading, and may use this as a guide in the future, here's a continuation of this saga.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/10...questions.html

It's great to have this running!!
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  #132  
Old 03-16-2014, 12:45 PM
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This thread, and the pictures...have saved me from becoming a mass murderer(or at least a heavier drinker)...I'm doing this on a 95 Van....still thinking about sawing off the bottom half of the steering wheel though

Taking the lifters out now....looks like the bumper's going to have to come off to slide the Camshaft out all of the way.
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  #133  
Old 03-16-2014, 03:19 PM
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Glad to hear it! That's what they're for.

Yeah, I think next time I do a cam install, I'm just going to remove the engine. Trying to move the engine around to get it to point out the grill was a real pain.

Good luck!
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Old 03-16-2014, 03:19 PM
 
 
 
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