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  #31  
Old 11-06-2010, 09:04 PM
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Just to fill in a blank here, does the cam gear require a bolt through it into the camshaft? Reason why I'm asking is I have an engine here without one, and I was curious about it.

Also I know that the timing gear can be removed without heating, press, puller...etc. I can quite literally just pull the gear off the end of the cam if it weren't the mesh between gears, but this only takes a little wiggling to get it loose.
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  #32  
Old 11-07-2010, 05:13 PM
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It should be a press-on fit. If it is loose and you can wiggle it, something is wrong. There is also a keeper that prevents it from moving independently of the cam.
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Old 11-07-2010, 06:07 PM
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The keeper/woodruff key is still there. And I stand corrected, it won't come off with the key in but it is a bit loose. without it I can slide the gear straight off the cam with no effort.


I'm thinking of tearing into this one for shizz & giggles just to see what all the P.O. did to the poor thing.
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  #34  
Old 11-09-2010, 01:24 PM
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Any ideas on my previous questions? Still hoping to hear on this.

Not sure which direction the cam spacer faces (figured out the cam gear). One side is tapered, one isn't.

Also, it doesn't seem to do anything. It sits inside the opening on the thrust plate, but it's the same depth as the thrust plate, so it doesn't look like anything will be touching it, what's it do?

Why is there a gap between it and the thrust plate? (See pics)

Even my original '81 Ford engine manual doesn't have the specifics...
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  #35  
Old 11-09-2010, 05:03 PM
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Sorry, AB, but I went out to the garage and went through both my Hayes and Chilton manuals. Both were extremely helpful and detailed, and said: Install spacer and thrust plate, and tighten retaining bolts to spec.

I do seem to remember that the taper goes toward the block, but don't quote me.
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Old 11-09-2010, 06:30 PM
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Is it possible the orientation doesn't matter? I have an '81 factory shop manual for the 300 and it doesn't even specify. Then again, it wouldn't be tapered "just because". Hrmm....
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  #37  
Old 11-09-2010, 07:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbandonedBronco View Post
Is it possible the orientation doesn't matter? I have an '81 factory shop manual for the 300 and it doesn't even specify. Then again, it wouldn't be tapered "just because". Hrmm....
I don't know if my membership is still good over at FS forum, since I told them to take a long walk on a short pier, but I'll try to post over there and see, because you need to find out. Worst case senario, they'll tell me to kick dirt.

Nah, sorry AB, but I told Beavis and his friends that I was never going back, and I meant it. You are on there. Why don't you post?
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  #38  
Old 11-10-2010, 02:38 PM
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Yeah, I have an account over there, and will ask if I need to. Just thought since a couple of you had done a cam very recently, you might have some info first.

CoolGuy1419?
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  #39  
Old 11-10-2010, 03:52 PM
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Stumbled upon this thread while looking around:

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/98...eeds-help.html


Only a few months old at that. Had some good information on installing the cam.

Looks like the beveled side of the spacer goes towards the cam. Also, I'll have to double check when I get home, but it states the spacer is only slightly thicker than the thrust plate, which is why it fits inside of it.



Here's a repost of the writeup for anyone who finds this thread in future searches. I edited it somewhat for ease of reading, and to make it more of a "step-by-step". I also wrote it out to help with my own understanding.


1. Remove the valve cover.

2. Loosen the rocker arms and remove the push rods and number them.

3. Remove the timing cover and line up the timing marks on the timing gears.

4. Remove the distributor: Line up the distributor to number one first and note where the timing mark is and try not to turn over the engine from now on.

5. Remove the valve lifter cover from behind the distributor.

6. Remove the lifters. (Mark which ones are which if they're not being replaced.)

7. The cam is held in with two bolts behind the gear and they are accessed through holes in the cam. If you need to turn the engine to expose the cam bolts, be sure to return it to where it was in step 3.

8. Drain the coolant and remove the radiator, fan, water pump, AC Condenser (if equipped), and grill. Disconnect motor mounts and jack up the engine to allow the cam to point out of the opening in the front.

9. Remove the cam. Be VERY CAREFUL not to tear up the cam bearings when you pull the cam. Pull it out slowly and lift it at the same time and you will be able to feel the cam bearings as the journals slide in and out of the bearings. If any of the bearings are showing copper surfaces, or are scratched, they need to be replaced.

10. If reusing the thrust plate, spacer, and/or cam key, remove the cam timing gear. Be careful not to break the thrust plate.

11. Use a puller to remove the crank gear.

12. Press on the new crank gear, being sure the timing dot is facing outwards.

13. Put the spacer onto the end of the cam with the beveled edge facing towards the cam. Put on the thrust plate. Put the cam key into the cam.

14. Press on the cam gear. A techniques may be to heat the gear in the oven to 300° first, use a grade 8 bolt that matches the thread on the end of the cam, and placing thick washers around the bolt. Tight it down until the cam gear touches the spacer. It may be necessary to use another spacer underneath the washers (with a larger internal diameter than the end of the cam) if the cam gear needs to clear the end of the cam. Also, some oil or grease will help the gear slide on. Be sure the gear is lined up with the cam key before pressing it on, and be sure the timing dot on the gear is facing outwards.

15. Slide the cam back into the engine, being careful again not to damage the cam bearings. Be sure to perfectly line up the timing dots on the cam and crank gears.

16. Tighten the thrust plate down. It's okay at this point to rotate the engine if the cam gear needs to be moved to line up the holes with the thrust plate bolts, as long as the crank gear turns with it.

17. Reverse the removal procedure. Be sure to use a timing gear cover gasket set that includes the front seal that goes around the vibration dampener.






Anyone see any issues with this? Anything to add? I imagine i'll change things a little bit after I go through the process.
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  #40  
Old 11-10-2010, 08:58 PM
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Hmmmm, I just did my cam 2 weeks ago, and dont remember a spacer. Got quite a few compliments on a 6 with a choppy idle. I did manage to break the thrust plate though. A local engine builder had a few in stock, and pressed it all on to the new cam(now I'd highly recommend a machine shop to press it).
Personally, I would put #6 in #3's spot. I like to line up the timing marks, then pull the dizzy and verify it's pointing at #1. That way you can rotate the engine wherever you need to, and not worry about it.
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  #41  
Old 11-11-2010, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nevrenufhp View Post
Hmmmm, I just did my cam 2 weeks ago, and dont remember a spacer. Got quite a few compliments on a 6 with a choppy idle. I did manage to break the thrust plate though. A local engine builder had a few in stock, and pressed it all on to the new cam(now I'd highly recommend a machine shop to press it).
Personally, I would put #6 in #3's spot. I like to line up the timing marks, then pull the dizzy and verify it's pointing at #1. That way you can rotate the engine wherever you need to, and not worry about it.
Point taken. Changed the order of the steps.

I figured I'd just order the thrust plate and have another on hand. I like the idea of not having to mess with the old one at all, especially after how often I hear of people breaking them.
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  #42  
Old 11-13-2010, 03:19 PM
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A question for anyone who knows. I put the spacer and thrust plate on the cam today to look at it, and the spacer is only negligibly thicker than the thrust plate. At least, I think it is. If it is, the difference is nearly invisible to the human eye. (Both the thrust plate and spacer were from the same company)

Is the spacer supposed to be thicker than the thrust plate? If so, by how much?


EDIT:

Holding the whole assembly up in better light, it's visible that the spacer is thicker than the thrust plate, but not my much! Wow, talk about precision machining. I fractions of an inch thicker, if not a fraction of a fraction of an inch.
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  #43  
Old 11-13-2010, 08:33 PM
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fraction of a fraction of an inch.

That is a man who desperately needs a michometer.
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Old 11-13-2010, 08:57 PM
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fraction of a fraction of an inch.

That is a man who desperately needs a michometer.
Lol, you do make a compelling point.
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Old 11-14-2010, 03:48 PM
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Well, got a cam gear cooking in the oven at 300°.
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