im just about done with the swap all i need to do is the brake lines. it was pretty simple even though i ran into some minor problems but im happy for now. the dana 60 was really do for some rear brake and the very limited sleep wasnt cuttin it. here are some pics.
before with the dana 60

14 bolt getting stripped down

detroit locker installed. i had to get and open carrier for it since this 14 bolt came factory with a gov lock.

disc brakes installed

 

Looks good. I debated on a 14 bolt rear end for a few different reasons
Easy to find
Cheap lockers
And one of the biggest: pinion support bearing

The downfalls
Massive! it hangs so low on the pot
inner axles are 30 spline and slightly(very minor) smaller than a dana 70
and was only found in a chev and has no place on a ford...lol

Anyays it is a good axle I just wanted to go with a dana 70 even though I paid way more money for my detroit locker and some other stuff but I think it was the all round best choice.
I do like how you welded the axle tubes to pot as well as I've heard they can spin. One suggestion I would make though is I noticed your spring perch is the standard style channel piece with open ends. If you have a heavy foot at all I would strongly suggest to cap the ends with some 1/4 " plate to box it in welded all the way around. I bought new perches on my 70 and managed to bend the front half of both sides from slamming the gas hard and the natural axle wrap of springs caused it to collapse which then put my driveline angle out on my rear cv driveshaft and snapped the flange. It would take you 1/2 hour to do it then you will have no worries. Also I twisted up my 9/16 u bolts and I got new ones made in a massive 3/4" size!! Something to think about but I run 44's and a heavy foot..
Heres my setup..



I've recently built a offroad style traction bar and installed 5:13's front and rear. The diff cover I run has preload screws to apply pressure to the bearing caps with a pivotable toe like on a C clamp. 3/8 aluminum with a drain as well , with a higher fill hole for more fluid capacity(needed for my application as my diff is rotated up quite a bit so extra oil allows it to still lube pinion bearing)and supposively keeps it running a bit cooler

I also gotta ask what do you plan on using for a E brake??

 

O looking back at your pics I also would of made the shock mounts on top of the axle unlike the stock ones that hang down

 

Looks like a nice job.

Doug

 

I will call BS on that! The best part for the job is the best part for the job - not whatever Henry decided to plop on the things.

All that aside I recently started to swap a corp 14 into my '74 F-100 as it was about 1/4 to 1/3 of the cost of a 35 spline, full floater 9" built the way I wanted. Plus since I will be putting one in the back on my '74 crew cab soon I'll be able to swap parts back and forth if I need. Neither swap is done (just wanted the axle in the F-100 so as to be able to roll it around again) but it doesn't seem like there is much to it. That being said you mention you "ran into some minor problems" - what were these?

Here's a couple not great pics of the 14 in the F-100 while I was cycling the rear suspension to figure out the spring hanger locations.




I didn't bother cleaning it up yet. I'll do that when I get back to that truck. At that point it'll get disks, axle tubes welded, a truss, a locker, etc. I'm not running a parking break on the F-100 (it's an auto with a gate shifter) and I plan on running a driveline brake on the driveshaft between the tranny and divorced t-case on the crew.

Oh - and one last side note. I noticed you welded your axle tubes. As I mentioned I planned on doing this or having it done. While I am confident in my welding skills, welding to a casting always makes me nervous. IF 9big if) I did it I would probably TIG it and pre-heat and post heat the center section welding with a high nickle rod or a silicone bronze rod. What did you end up doing for this or did you have a professional welder do it?

 

Congrats. My truck's in the shop right now getting a corp 14 with a detroit locker and 4.56:1 gears. I like how your exhaust was routed, and will keep that in mind on mine pretty soon.

What's the gray metal sleeve at the rear end of the rear drive shaft and front end of the 14 bolt? I haven't seen that before.

 

if you noticed I laughed after I made that comment... I don't really care that much about it being in a ford. I just think a 70 is a better axle and I seewhy guys do the 14 bolt as it's easy to find and cheap. Not too many have a built 70 anymore

 

I did notice, but unfortunately when most people around here say something like that they aren't joking. In fact they'll want to fight you for disagreeing with that opinion

As for the 70 vs. 14b - it depends on who you ask. I've found people are split 50/50 by this choice. Yes there is a lip on the bottom of the 14 but I don't think that alone makes it worth paying the price difference. As for the axles themselves being slightly smaller - I've got a buddy who beats the **** out of his trucks (44s and 500+ ci motors) and has snapped multiple d70 axles, but never a corp 14 axle. Him telling me this helped me choose to go with the corp 14.

All that aside they are both good axles. I'm just cheap and got this corp 14 for free so I went that route. I'll have well less than $1k into a built axle with a locker, disk brakes, etc. To match that in 9" form I'd be dropping $5k or so!

 

If I were to snap an inner I'd just go chromoly then be set for life. I have beat mine pretty hard so far with no issues. My Detroit ran me 850$ Cnd which was a big bite to my wallet. Other than that it was same cost for stuff as any 14 bolt axle. My rear disc caliper bracket I made myself out of 3/8 plate. It was easy I made a template from construction paper. I made mine a weld on so it didn't need the bent offset. I cut off the mounting flange on the axle as it was welded in place of that. I was then able to set my pinion angle for a cv driveshaft and clock the bracket until the bleeder screw was vertical to be able to bleed calipers fully. If you guys run a standard tranny and run rear discs I would suggest running a swagelok ball valve line lock to the rear brakes. It's manual with no rusk of the electric ones being left on and burnt out. It's a must for wheeling as I'm on a hill I apply it on a steep hill at a stop, then simply apply gas while letting off clutch then flip the lock and it instantly goes forward with no rollback. I also engage it for front wheel digs and pivoting around corners with rear locked.

 

To the OP: nice work, and great looking truck! I am partial to green, so of course I like it!

To the rest of you: I love the 70 vs 14bolt discussion. I was looking into getting a 14 bolt, but ended up just rebuilding the 70 I had, since I also had a spare 70 to rob parts from. Both axles make a 60 look small, so I think both are good choices.

 

as to why i went with the 14 bolt is because ive have not heard anything bad about them just that it hangs too low which i could care less about. the locker itself was about half price than for a dana 60 or 70. i had a buddy of mine weld the perches and tubes. he arc welded everything. when he welded the tubes he did it in sections so it wouldnt get to hot.
the only problems i had were having the wrong carrier for the detroit but i found the right one the same day for $80 bucks. also the driveshaft was too short but luckily i had one out of a 4 speed truck which fit perfect. right now im running a 1330 to 1350 conversion u joint but eventually im gonna run 1410 yokes and have a driveshaft made.

 

thanks! thats one of the reasons i got the truck because it was green.

 

im would have gone with the 70 just because its harder and more expensive. seems to be the way with ford.

 

Nice Swap!

Isn't the 10.5" rear(called sterling I think?) end in later model trucks basically the same as a corporate 14b 10.5" rear? Could be wrong, I just remember reading somewhere that they are very similar..

Now, as for me, I've never heard of a 70 before this thread... Heh. A 60 is just the upper end of anything I've owned or worked on other than GM 12 and 14 bolts...

G.

 

The sterlings are similar yet different. Right up there with the d70 and 14b. They are uses a lot in newer trucks as they have the port for the VSS already in them. They are a good, strong axle as well.