numberdummy or anyone who can help! I have a '66 long bed f-100 that I'm rebuilding as a mild hot rod for my son, it is his 16th birthday gift. It came home on a flat bed in pieces, more of them in the bed than on the truck. Im no mechanic but figured why not give it a go. Its been fun and fustraiting all at the same time. One of the biggest problems may be where I live. Long Island NY. Not too many old ford trucks around and no salvage yards left. Most of your pep boys and auto zone counter guys are 19 year olds who know less than nothing. Really no help at all. This forum has been a huge help. I've bought some stuff from E-bay and other stuff from catalogs none of which comes with directions? Any how some times I get the wrong parts because the truck is not all original. The vin # is
F10AD776863
the rest of the door plate says 129w f-100 281 C 09
05000 129 4000 61 D50
The numbers on the intake manifold which has a 4 barrel on it says 4L271
C5AE9425C
the block says 352
Any help Iidentifying would be great. Also just installed a new type 1 signal turn canceling cam(without hazards on colum) but blinkers still don't turn off. Someone told me I may be missing canceling springs? I cann't find them in any catolog? what are they and where can I get them?
What else could it be?
Thanks for any hep you can give me

 

Jim, The A sez 240 I6, the 352 sez FE. Looks like the perfect example of VIN = how it went through the factory doors not what you have today.

Do you want power disc brakes & steering for the truck?





John

 

I just put power steering in the truck last week, bought off of Ebay alittle trouble with the balancer and pulley and hose lenghts but seems to be working ok. The steering colum that came with the power steering had the broken cancel cam that I replace but did not fix the problem of blinkers not turning off. The PO put power brake conversion in but the car sat with front clip off for 9 years. He had cut the front brake lines to remove the front fenders and pancaked them. I put in new lines in bleed system then after a couple scary brake failures I replaced the master cylinder, a mid 80's corvette one fit. Brakes are 99% better. some times if the wheel is cut all the way brakes fail. I think the hose were put on wrong by PO. I will have to get a diagram and re route them properly.

 

S C A R E E E E E! Better upgrade would be to swap in the I-beams from a 73-76 along with the power steering gear. Perfect fit all Ford engineered.





John

 

Swapped engine with a 4V intake manifold from a 1965 Galaxie/LTD 352/390. Or a 1965 Thunderbird/full sized Mercury 390.

All 1965/71 352/360/390/410/428 engine blocks have the 352 foundry mark because all were cast as 352's.

You'll have to measure the stroke to determine engine size.

352/360: 3.50" / 390: 3.78" / 410/428: 3.98"

F10 = F100 2WD

A = 240 1V I-6.

D = Dallas TX Assembly Plant.

776883 = 1966, assembled November 1965.

129" Wheelbase.

W = Marlin Blue.

F100 2WD, 5,000 lbs. GVWR

281: 2 = Medium Blue Crush Vinyl & Medium Blue Wicker Pattern Vinyl // 81 = 81A Standard Cab.

C = Ford type 3.03 3 Speed Manual all Syncromesh Transmission.

09 = Ford 9" Rear Axle / 3.70-1 / non Limited Slip / 3,300 lb. Rear Axle Capacity.

5,000 lbs. Gross Vehicle Weight Rating.

129 net HP @ 4,000 RPM

61 = Dallas TX Ford District Sales Office, where the original selling dealer ordered the truck from.

I've never heard of turn signal cancelling springs. Ford sold the TSS as a complete assembly, and it's still available from Ford.

C9TZ13341C .. Turn Signal Switch.

Fits: 1965/66 F100/250 2WD / 1966 F100 4WD / 1967/68 F100/350 / 1969 F100/350 before serial number G30,001.

MSRP: $61.98 // FTE Ford Dealer Parts Dept sponsor PARTSGUYED.COM price: $44.63.

There is a steel C shaped cancelling cam, it fits onto the hub of the steering wheel. If it's missing, the signals will not cancel.