My question is is there a difference ? The -a heads say they came on 390 428 in the charts I think just was wondering if there was any real difference. the - a's are on a FE that came with a 66 f250 parts truck I bought. I have a set of C5AE as well as a set of D2EAA's I would like to build a 390 for my work truck but not sure about which set of heads to use. thanks for any input

 

360/390 D2TE-AA heads have hardened valve seats.

There's no such head casting number prefix of D2EA.

 

Thanks NumberDummy, yes that is right sorry I got the number wrong. do you know if there is a difference between c7ae and c7ae-a heads?
I have read that the hardened seats on heads as old as these D2TE-AA have been pounded out of existence so if I were to have them gone through I would have to have hardened seats added will the c7ae or the c7ae-a heads be a better choice.

 

The casting number will have a suffix, which means there's no such thing as C7AE heads without a suffix..

They are either C7AE-A, or have another suffix.

 

It's been a while since I dabbled in this but... IIRC, the C5 heads have a little bit better combustion chamber than the C7 heads, the D2 heads are the same as the C7's. I would check in with our brothers a little further down the forums list in the FE motor section.
--Mike

 

Sorry. again I need to make sure that my numbers are right before posting the castings that I don't' see a suffix for are c5ae although I looked on the block these are on and I see that it is a c5ae-a. sorry again about being a dope.

 

Alright Chris, let's get this worked out. Do you have 3 sets of heads? If so, tell me the castings. If you have a C5ae-a block, I show that being a 65 390 version. Double check all your numbers and also look on the heads opposite of the plug next to your castings. The C7ae-a heads were standard issue FE heads with 71.2-74.2 combustion chamber volumes. The D2TE AA heads were standard issue FE heads but with a better combution chamber of 68.1-71.1 (higher compression ratio results). If you have C5ae-6090f or r, you are looking at a set of 427 meduium riser heads, which I doubt you have...
--Mike

 

Thank you for your patience. Yes I have 3 complete FE's the one that was in my truck when I bought it (C5ae-a block C5ae 6090c heads 8 exhaust bolt holes )smoking badly, the one in the bed of my truck when I bought it (d2te aa heads) now in my truck but has Oil leaking into the coolant I tried sealing the head bolt and flushed the system but still seems to be leaking. although maybe not as bad. last we have the FE out of the 66 f250 parts truck I just bought It fired up and ran good no smoke green antifreeze the guy said that it was in the field for 10 years 5k after a rebuild (C(8or 6)me-a block c7ae-a w DIF heads) something has to go away just want to keep the best stuff. thanks for any and all input.

 

Impossible.

Since all 1965/76 352/360/390/410/428 engines were originally cast as 352's, the C5AE-A block casting number (which is a foundry mark) cannot refer to a 390 engine only.

People here on FTE go ga-ga over block castings numbers which usually are worthless (especially inre to FE engines) for ID'ing engine sizes or what vehicles the block was used in.

Casting numbers cannot be cross referenced to Ford part numbers.

 

Thanks Bill, not going to argue with you as you always have a Google version of responses, I'm just rying to answer a few questions that no-one-else wanted to approach.

Chris - That's the sort of info I was trying to get to. What do you want to do? If you are looking to get the truck going, drop the motor from the 66 in and enjoy it. If you are looking to build a nice motor over the winter, pull them all apart and inspect what you have. This way you can find what actually sits in front of you and if the parts can be used. This is how I built the motor for my truck, using various parts from the original 352, an exploded 360 and extra 390 parts from the guy who did my machine work. (BTW - "DIF" nothing special-Dearborn Iron Forging)
--Mike

 

Google not! 35 years of Ford parts experience, with over 30 years at the back (shop) counter passing out parts to mechanics.

 

There you go, I can only claim 30 years of turning wrenches, 7 years as automobile warranty claims adjuster and 20 years till retirement...
--Mike

 

Since 1956, I've owned 331 vehicles. 81 FoMoCo vehicles (11 bought new), 60 Packard's and other assorted old rolling piles of misery.

I did most a the work on most a them, since many of the vehicles were faaar oughtta warranty, and many of the automakers were long gone oughtta business.

Current piles: 2008 Ford Fusion, 1934 Packard V12 Convertible Victoria.

 

The truck runs fine now I just have to remove the chocolate mousse out of the catch bottle and add a quart of oil every three tanks. I use it every day for work. the plan is to put the engine out of the parts truck in it then build a 390 as I have time and $. So I guess I need to measure the stroke on what I have that seems to be the best way to see if I have the right stuff. when the engine is not in a truck are there any shortcuts to the process? I guess I just need to start pulling stuff apart. thanks for the information sounds like the D2 heads will be the best choice for rebuilding anyway. As I understand it the oil in the coolant is a problem in the block not the heads right? I should have them magnifuxed(sp) any way though when evaluating the blocks what do I look for or should I take them both to a machine shop and ask them.

 

Turn the motor upside down, remove the pan, the crank will have a number (like C6Ae-B or 2T for a 352/360) cast on it to ID what you have. This can be found on IIRC, the second crank counterweight, but I would need to see one again to refresh my memory. You will need to take all your parts to the machine to have them tanked, you may as well have the fluxed as well. There would be nothing worse than spending money on a build if the parts aren't good to go to start with.