grounding the gas tank?
#16
Yes, and the second one hangs on the steering column - in case the seat is on fire - they burn hot and fast and must be drowned with water in order to put out.
Saw a guy throw a cigarrette butt out his front window once and it flew in the back and landed on the seat - set the seat on fire. I unloaded two fire extenigushers on it and it wouldn't put it out. Car was a total loss. Serves him right!
Saw a guy throw a cigarrette butt out his front window once and it flew in the back and landed on the seat - set the seat on fire. I unloaded two fire extenigushers on it and it wouldn't put it out. Car was a total loss. Serves him right!
#17
See it on Ilyas recent thread here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-world.html
#18
Good grounds are essential:
I would run the grounding scheme like this:
Ground cable coming off the battery attaches onto one of the starter mouning bolts (starter is the highest demand item on the truck)
Then from the same bolt holding on the starter, run another battery type cable to the frame. Make sure the frame is ground down to bright metal when doing this and coat that spot with battery terminal protective jell where the cable bolts down.
Then run 1" wide woven grounding straps from the lower valance to the frame, from the cab to the frame, and the box to the frame.
I would run the grounding scheme like this:
Ground cable coming off the battery attaches onto one of the starter mouning bolts (starter is the highest demand item on the truck)
Then from the same bolt holding on the starter, run another battery type cable to the frame. Make sure the frame is ground down to bright metal when doing this and coat that spot with battery terminal protective jell where the cable bolts down.
Then run 1" wide woven grounding straps from the lower valance to the frame, from the cab to the frame, and the box to the frame.
#19
Hi Jim - thanks!
The thick cable is usually copper capable of carrying more amps. But that not terrifically important on grounds since most of the amps are used up to do the work the appliance needs to do. So electrically really no difference in our application.
But, the braded type are not nearly as strong, are exposed and more susceptible to dirt, oil, corrosion, and damage. Close to the battery or engine that might make a difference (if you use a woven ground strap on your battery it will eat through it in short order) but out on the body ends it really doesn't hurt anything. The woven straps are more flexible which helps with body parts movements and easier to work with when mounting.
The straps are also less expensive. I'd use round cables from battery to engine (both starter and ground) and engine to frame; then, straps from body to frame at the three point I mentioned above.
Be sure if you still run a 6 volt system to use the extra large (around) battery cables, because the 6 volt electrical system requires twice the amperage as the 12 volt system!
The thick cable is usually copper capable of carrying more amps. But that not terrifically important on grounds since most of the amps are used up to do the work the appliance needs to do. So electrically really no difference in our application.
But, the braded type are not nearly as strong, are exposed and more susceptible to dirt, oil, corrosion, and damage. Close to the battery or engine that might make a difference (if you use a woven ground strap on your battery it will eat through it in short order) but out on the body ends it really doesn't hurt anything. The woven straps are more flexible which helps with body parts movements and easier to work with when mounting.
The straps are also less expensive. I'd use round cables from battery to engine (both starter and ground) and engine to frame; then, straps from body to frame at the three point I mentioned above.
Be sure if you still run a 6 volt system to use the extra large (around) battery cables, because the 6 volt electrical system requires twice the amperage as the 12 volt system!
#20
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