Matthew, FWIW, in 1968 when the 460 first came out in Lincolns, it was rated 500 ft-lbs torque and Lincoln Continentals started using the C6 in 1966 replacing the Lincoln specific cast iron transmission, sort of an FMX on steroids, there were at least 3 versions of the FMX, small medium and large case, but the MEL was a modified large case with an extension section so a longer gear set could be used to handle the torque of the 430 (490 ft-lbs @ 3100 rpm).

 

Some of the guys on the 460 forum swear the C6 in stock form can handle 600 hp.

 

Brandon, it's not the HP that breaks things, it's the torque, the 430 and 460 were both designed to yank a heavy car with a rear gear in the 2.7:1 range away from a light in a hurry, torque is what does that.

 

Torque is the twisting force so the input/output shaft twisting by the engine is torque enough torque it will break something.


Now I know C6s are supposed to be real stout and I doubt a 332 stroker would ever build enough torque and still be a daily driver build to hurt a stock C6.


But I do like the idea of over kill though.

 

This weekend on the '81 F100:
1) Found the carb a bit loose on the manifold, tightened that down, which immediately made it run better (and solved my hot-start problem).
2) Set the carb and timing with a vacuum gauge. It's running a few more degrees of advance now over the stock settings, I didn't put the light on it to see exactly though. Truck feels like it has a bit more grunt in the mid-range now.
3) Found my fuel leak -- small rust hole in the filler neck, under the hose clamp on the front tank -- JB Weld to the rescue.
4) Re-installed helper springs in the rear. I can step on the rear bumper without the rear drop dropping 2 inches now. woot!

Between 1, 2 and 3 I'll be interested to see how my gas mileage changes.

 

Six cylinder with stock carburetor?

 

How'd you guess? Nope, not the first time I've tightened it down. Wish I'd have remember to check it sooner.

Maybe, I just need to remember to just put a wrench on those bolts at every oil change.

 

Or purchase a 2nd set of nuts and double nut it.

 

Maybe use Loctite?

 

Lock washers?

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...adio-work.html

 

Got my side steps today. Going to put them on after I get back from the alignment shop.

 

Deleted. Wrong thread.

 

Today, I took off the spare tire and hanger so I could get at a few things in the back, then, since it is fairly full, one side at a time replaced the lower straps on the rear tank with the set I found the other day that have both rubber and hard clear plastic on the tank side.

Then the fun part started, I took the front tank out to make and install new pads for it. Good thing, with it empty I could move it a good 1/8" up and down. While I had it out, I found a broken nipple on the tank vent and pulled the pump and checked the sock for cleanliness. Tank is pretty well spotless inside. I also verified grounds on both the pump and sender (they tie together in the harness) As I was having some occasional strange gauge readings.

After that, I removed the rear axle vent nipple and removed a nest in it then replaced the broken hose.

Before I close everything up, I am going to make a modification to the spare tire carrier as the dually wheel mounts dish down and is a royal PITA to put back on straight. I am going to put a couple of large enough bolts to drop the rim over on two of the holes. I am debating just using 9/16-18 bolts and jam nuts and getting a couple of new wheel nuts to hold it on and do away with the center, or just use the bolts for alignment and keep the factory center retainer.

 

Took the truck to the alignment shop today. it's in good alignment and didn't need aligned. The guy said for a string alignment I did a fantastic job. Surprisingly this guy actually knew what he was talking about when it comes with Twin I beam. I can tell he's been doing alignments for a long time.


As far as the steps, the Chinaman engineers supplied 2 bolts that were too short, and the couplers that go over the rear seat belt bolts that stick down are 7/16-20 on my truck, and I was supplied 4 couplers that were smaller and metric (same size as front cab mount threads). So, it looks like to remedy that I'll just have to get longer seat belt bolts and use a nut and lock washers for the rear support brackets. Anyone know how long the seat belt bolts are that bolt to the frame?