No not the heater. It's another engine. It shows really well in the bottom picture. It has round looking covers over the cylinder with spark plugs in them.

 

That's an 85 HP Evinrude outboard.

 

Ok, I thought the fly wheel looked funny.

 

Received the proper carb for the truck (AOD) from National Carb today. Very pretty.

 

welded on a homemade exhaust dump in front of the mufflers. so now she is straight piped when i only want to.

 

Painted my freshly walnut blasted air cleaner assembly today.

 

Matthew - Looks pretty, but are those runs on the lid or is the light playing tricks?

 

Just the waves in the metal and the light, no runs in this paint job lol.

 

Got the air cleaner on, now all I have to do is get the right hose and rig up a hot air system. Already got that figured out, just going to get a cheapie exhaust tip the right size and hose clamp it to the header, and hook the hose to it. Read of people doing that on a che** forum with good results.




Also found a chrome metal plug that fit the hole in the air cleaner lid someone drilled.

 

I thought we were going to trade. I'm home now and can check what hose and adapters I have later today.

 

You're the only person who I would know that would even have the hose lol.

 

Got the troubleshooting light I ordered off ebay today, it came off a bronco but it appears to be the correct one. Guy said everything works and it does. The cord pulls out and locks pull again and it starts to reel up. The bulb is a 90 dual contact single filament bulb which Iam currently trying to locate a LED bulb to use for extra light.


I also chopped the green power wire off fairly close to the plastic case as the insulation was pulling off the wire so I solder in a new 16ga green wire using the oem plug in and used green shrink wrap to seal it up. I also extended the ground wire and used black shrink wrap on that as well.


Just need to either find the correct plug ends to build my own power jumper or track down a original one.

 

Yeah, i suggested similar to Gary a while back on how to make his headers work with the warm air intake.

Most headers we buy here just have a short length of tube welded onto one header pipe if you want warm air. But you guys have it a lot colder than us - so...
Id either use a long length welded onto the longest pipe run (notch it along its length to create a sort-of figure 8 cross-section) with a bend kicking up to your flex pipe, or hide a length along behind the headers notched and welded to each tube, again with a bend out kicking up.

A short length or exhaust tip clamped on won't have much area or conduction for heat transfer, leave the redneck hacks for the Chev guys

 

If it works it works LOL I'm not going to go welding on those thin headers. I don't need much heat anyways as it's not very cold blooded, even in the dead of winter.

 

I upgraded to a factory tach cluster, removed blue filters and added green LEDs