Paul, how will a vacuum pump work with a vacuum modulator on an auto tranny? I have never explored how it would affect it.

 

It would probably have to be setup the same way as the 6.9, with a VRV mounted on the pump.

 

It would need a throttle sensor to properly regulate the vacuum signal to the trans. However, since I want to use a manual trans, it's a non-issue. If I end up finding a killer deal on a donor with an auto, it *should* already be setup *if* it has a vacuum modulator. I think most auto's used behind the cummins had other means of regulating the shift points, but the very early ones *may* have still used some type of vacuum mod valve.
Of course, dodge auto trans weren't the greatest back in the 12V days.......

 

TMI...

 

Chrysler transmissions use a throttle rod or cable, even the newer ones. They use a computer controlled governor system to regulate the shifts. I have never seen a Chrysler automatic with any kind of vacuum control unless you want to go back to the old tip toe shift semi-automatics.

 

Nice hubcap, Jim! I've seen one like that before.

 

Yours is on the other side!

 

When I installed this Motorcraft cap early this year, it was in almost new condition, even though it was on a distributor that was off a parts truck from years ago. I cleaned up the contacts and installed it along with that rotor. It worked better than the cap I had at the time which had a bit of wear on the outer contacts and was a house brand from O'Reilly's or something.

When I went to install the advance recurve kit a week or two ago, I realized that the stock style center contact (carbon or graphite, I think) isn't up to the task of handling multiple 45,000 volt sparks and sending them to .050-.060" gap plugs. All that damage was done by spark energy alone, nothing mechanical. It appears that the spark was actually jumping a gap from the cap to the rotor. Pretty impressive, though it was causing some drivability and performance issues.

The cap is toast, but the rotor cleaned up easily with steel wool. The new cap is a Crane Cams unit I got through Summit and I'll say this...it's HEAVY. The Motorcraft one was considerably more solid than the one it replaced, and this one is noticeably heavier than the Motorcraft. And this one has brass contacts, although the center appears to be of a different material. We'll see how it holds up and if it doesn't, then I'll find a cap with a different center contact material.

I noticed an increase in power after installing the new cap, and I've been trying different things to get my timing where I want it with the recurve kit. I'm thinking the carb adapter is causing me some issues though, so a new intake may be in the near future.



Too bad I can't run solid core plug wires with the MSD...lol

 

I'd say you used-up that cap. And I'm not so sure the rotor isn't well on its way as well.

 

Triple the arc's means triple the wear???

Dog, that cap looks awful.
Like it's a decade old, but the rotor button tells the tale.

Why can't you run 440 cable and NGK caps?
Not too familiar with your MSD system.
Seeing the pic's make me glad I'm not.

 

Speaking of hubcaps, any ideas where I can get them new? I'm missing 3 of the 4.

 

That style?
They are VERY pricey new.

And the 4x4 front ones that are cut out are virtually unobtainable.
They seemed to be popular on E350's, so deep ones for the rear are not so rare.

 

I had 3 out of 4. But tossed them and painted my wheels grey since they were all dinged to hell.

 

I had them all at one point. My wheels are all yellow/brown from rust and used to be white. I only really need one because I just put 2 up front and leave the back ones off it.

 

Jim, E-250 and E-350 basic vans use them, my friend's 2003 E-250 has them.