1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

What have you done to your truck today?

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  #16741  
Old 11-27-2015, 06:08 PM
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There are a number of changes, alternator for one, introduction on the hot fuel handling package, which followed the 460 release, deletion of the 351M and 400. 1985.5, EFI for the 302, FBC in 86 for the 300 etc.
 
  #16742  
Old 11-27-2015, 06:18 PM
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Yep, good points. So, your EVTM pages would be a big help. Hopefully you can scan them individually as I have to have separate jpeg's to upload.

And, you reminded me of another page I want to post - year-to-year changes. I'm hoping that y'all will chime in, but I do plan to point out some discrepancies in popular opinion. For instance, when the clear turn signal lenses turned amber. The master parts catalog says something like March of '81 was when the change was made. However, I have two 81's, one made in Oct and the other in Nov of '80, and both have amber lenses. So, I'll document that as well.

EDIT: That page has been started, so y'all chime in, please.
 
  #16743  
Old 11-27-2015, 07:27 PM
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So you need them as jpegs rather than pdfs. Ok, glad you told me.
 
  #16744  
Old 11-27-2015, 07:30 PM
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Installed my new license plate lenses with new LED lights, the LED's fit perfectly inside the OE lenses, but the aftermarket lenses are a tad bit smaller inside. I got them to go in, but I'm going to shorten the plastic of the bulb of each one next time I get the chance. But, there is a lot more light lighting the license plate up now! the old lenses were yellow and the silver reflective paint was mostly gone letting light leak out of the plastic.


Gary, the headlight "buckets" (grille trim around the headlights) I purchased was aftermarket. I'll let you know how the quality is when they arrive.
 
  #16745  
Old 11-27-2015, 07:31 PM
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Bill - I can convert them if pdf's are easier for you. But, however you do them try to turn the dpi up to maybe 600 x 600 to get a really good pic.

Matthew - Thanks! I'm interested.
 
  #16746  
Old 11-27-2015, 08:42 PM
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Sunday morning I'm going to take my water pump off and replace the gasket. It's leaking worse now. I should have used some sort of sealant upon reassembly. I'm also going to replace the 4 WP bolts that go through the WP and timing cover to the block. One of them barely tightens down before bottoming out on the shoulder (passenger side long WP bolt, right where it's leaking)... I'm also going to change my rear differential oil again after finding out I was driving with a plugged axle vent for 2.5 years. Better be safe than sorry.

Man, it's nice to be able to get paid weekly to afford to do this crap now.
 
  #16747  
Old 11-27-2015, 09:11 PM
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Matthew,

I have historically used Permatex No. 2 as a sealant for those gaskets. But this past summer, I did some fairly major work on my brother's 351W in his Bronco, and the gasket kit had a tube of black RTV - so I used that this time, figured "guess I can try it."

I am not of of those guys who uses RTV for everything like a lot of today's kids are. But it's silicone, which I *will* use for certain applications involving water.

Those four bolts - 5/16-18 IIRC - I use thread sealant with PTFE that I got at my local Ace Hardware store. It's basically plumber's paste with teflon it seals the threads, I'm sure you've probably found that those bolts and holes can get really corroded after a while.

You can get sealant with PTFE from the auto parts store, too.
 
  #16748  
Old 11-27-2015, 09:20 PM
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I'm going to use 518? gasket eliminator for the WP sealing area, with the gasket. I used it on my thermostat housing and it was the only thing I had ever tried that made it permanently stop leaking. I also have a little tube of ptfe paste that I will use.

Also, anyone ever had any trouble with the brake caliper retaining pins working themselves out? the lower drivers side pin keeps working itself out out of nowhere. I have tapped it back in twice now in a short period of time.

As far as those bolts being corroded. I've never had one stuck. They came right out when I took the engine apart for the first time because somebody had coated them generously with anti seize.
 
  #16749  
Old 11-27-2015, 09:29 PM
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Isn't there supposed to be some sort of retainer bolt to hold those pins in place?
 
  #16750  
Old 11-27-2015, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
Isn't there supposed to be some sort of retainer bolt to hold those pins in place?
Not on mine, they just slide out. They DO have tangs on each end to keep this from happening though. Maybe I should replace the pins?
 
  #16751  
Old 11-27-2015, 10:38 PM
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Originally Posted by FordFETruck
Not on mine, they just slide out. They DO have tangs on each end to keep this from happening though. Maybe I should replace the pins?
Huh... book sez things changed for 1986, especially 4WD applications. But these pictures are pretty generic and so don't necessarily represent true life to the nth degree.

I'm thinking of 385194-S in both pictures (single & dual-piston calipers, I have no idea which ones you have).

In any event, I guess trying to replace those clippy things would be the first thing I'd try... but my gut feeling has me thinking something is wrong there, like maybe somebody installed parts that "will work" but aren't necessarily correct for your application, or something else weird that isn't 100% complete for some reason.



 
  #16752  
Old 11-27-2015, 10:46 PM
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I have dual piston calipers. The weird thing is, none of them ever did that before, only one just started doing it. They do look like the original clips. It does not have a provision for any sort of bolt/lock system the diagram shows. It had new calipers put on when the last brake job was done according to the paperwork. They look correct, fit and function properly. I guess the rubber must be getting weak on that one clip. I just ordered 4 new clips.
 
  #16753  
Old 11-29-2015, 05:02 PM
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Yes, replace the pins, they have a rubber center that provides the tension to keep them in. I always put a light coat of high temp grease on the pins and the area where the caliper slides on the steering knuckle.
 
  #16754  
Old 11-29-2015, 06:38 PM
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Pulled my water pump off today to discover that the WP backing plate gasket blew out. I now have a new water pump, free of charge and I even got to keep my old one. Since the new pump didn't have a crystallized gasket, I took it apart and applied 515 loctite on the gasket and sealing surfaces, and put blue thread locker on the retaining bolts. I don't think it'll blow out anytime soon! I also used thread paste sealant on all of the bolt threads. Also replaced the 4 bolts that go through the timing cover. I noticed that the old WP was made in Mexico, new one is made in China and has a considerably thicker gasket than the Mexico pump, and much more metal and gasket where the old one blew out. It blew out on the passenger side between the outside bolts.

Oh, yeah it was 30 degrees outside today.
 
  #16755  
Old 11-29-2015, 10:05 PM
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Matthew - Glad you got it fixed. But, I feel for you as working outside on a cooling system in 30 degree weather isn't fun.

All - Need some help. I created the page on engine supports/perches, and would like your input. Several questions come to mind when I look at it:
  1. Does it answer the questions? If not, what else is needed?
  2. Can you read the spreadsheet? I kinda doubt it, but thought I'd ask.
  3. Did I translate the tables from the parts catalog correctly?
  4. Other?

Thanks in advance!
 


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