I got my main wiring finished thanks to Julie. I still have to do the lights but hey it only gets better.I do have a little knock down on the lower end.It does not happen all the time like in rod knock.It looks like it is the lower pulleygoing in and out.I thought it would be called a harmonic ballancer.Not sure on the flat head.Looks more like a pully only.i am waiting on my service manual to get here so I can be more informed. but in the mean time any thoughts on my problem?i tried to tighten motor turned over no more tight
dont want to use a impact utill I know what I am getting into.Hope The flatty god can help me.
Thanks george

 

Hey George!

I'm not sure about the flattys either.

But......



How did the wiring go - pretty easy?

 

julie you were right it was pretty easy. At first i was trying to figure out what all the shorts that were already there to correct. Then I said make it easy,i removed all the old spagetti and jumpers. some time people have a Ideai like a nice clean job so you can see what you have.
have a great day!!

 

Gidday George, crankshaft endfloat is .002''-.006''. you have to establish what's moving, has the crank bolt been loose at some point and the pulley has worn and now there is no clamping force to hold the pulley, oil slinger , crank gear snug on the crankshaft snout . When the pulley is pulled up onto the crank the pulley shoulder the washer sits on should be proud of the end of the crankshaft, If it has been loose you'll need to check it out for damage, worn key way etc.
Good luck, Steve.

Here is a link to the Flathead Ford forum, the guys here are very knowledgeable.
Ford Flathead V8 .. 1932 thru 1953 • View forum - Q & A General Discussions

 

Steve is right on with the flathead group. Without knowing more of the engine's history it's tough to say. I could be a rod knock.....

To answer a couple of your questions: no, flathead V8's do not have a harmonic balancer. If you have movement in and out and the pulley is tight it's probably the thrust bearing on the main bearing set. You can measure the movement by having someone push in the clutch - that will shove it forward. Take a measurement off something solid (frame x-member, etc.) then with a bar against the x member push against the pulley and it will move toward the rear. Measure again and you know how much end play you have.

 

mt flat,
Thank you for your help. I checked the travel on the crank it is about 1/8 inch.I could move very easy with a little pry.So what to you think time to rebuild the motor or do the lower end? I dont have any history on the motor I bought the truck not running been sitting for over 20 years. I do like the idea of the flat head old school.I did have couple 50 and 51 coupes back in the 60s never had them long enough to do any major work like we are talking about. i got into the chevys 265 283.What kind of advise would recomend to correct the problem.
Thanks George

 

Steve,
Thankyou also for your input. This site is really helpful
ThankS AGAIN GEORGE

 

You could try replacing the main bearing with thrust collars (I forget if it's #2 or #3), if everything else is OK that will keep you running and prevent any further damage. It can be done with the engine in the truck and dropping the pan. Is your oil pressure OK? Thrust bearing wear is usually from lots of clutch action, if the truck was used in the city a lot for example, and from low oil pressure.

 

Ross,
Oil pressure gauge not working ,need to get a mech one to check.
just cranked her up runs real smooth except for the crank movement.
I have a little ways to go to get her on the road.i was not sure if she would even run.I was planning to pull the motor to get her cleaned up,i believe I would like to put new water pumps on the old one were freezed I did get them to move after a little help with the big channel locks. one thig I checked the compression 45 lbs all holes ??? dont seem right to me.i like your idea if that will work.i will get a pressure gauge on Monday to check.
Thanks George

 

You might try a shot or two of Marvel Mystery Oil in each cylinder to loosen the rings. Flatheads will run with 45 # but it should be twice that or more.

After sitting for 20 years it would be normal for them to be stuck up a bit. They might loosen up a bit. Its a good thing that the numbers are consistent across both banks.

Good news is flatheads will "run" long after a modern engine would seize up from mistreatment. Maybe not at optimum performance but enough for you to get a feel for what they're like.

The engine in my 48 has the same crank movement you've described - it needs a complete overhaul, but I'll probably just drop in a set of mains and get a few more miles out of it. btw, you'll find Steve, Ross and a bunch of great guys at that flathead forum. They've got tech articles that would be a big help for you while learning about your flathead. You'll find out they're not 'old school' - these guys drive them every day including a few dragracers. It's all good!

 

Hi, check fuel pump push rod. Reduce clearance between top of rod and cup-receptor on fuel pump lever and see if theres a difference. if so, adjust until it's the right length or try a longer rod.F-6Larry

 

Unfortunately, you can only adjust one way (more clearance) by adding gaskets under the stand. If the pump linkage is worn badly, it will make clearance and noise.

 

It's adjustable (fuel pump push rod). It's like an upside down cup goes over the push rod. Put anything in it that won't fall out while you're putting the pump back on (and over the push rod). Leather or materal less compressible. Remember Grapes of Wrath by Steinbeck. F-6Larry

 

Well I checked thoil pressure and wow 60 lbs. now I know the little knock is in the front of motor. The alingment of the pullies is out. When I push the pully I hear the same sound.I did check the push rod when I put the new fuel pump 10 1/16th inch.
Dr Ross you said thrust coliars can you tell me how and where I could get those litte babies and see if that works.But the more I think about this little motor, i think she might need a rebuild.I think I am getting the flat head fever . I went to a car show a couple of weeks ago and out of about 200 300 cars and trucks only 2 flat heads. I like that. I really do thank all of you with the info it really makes for a great project. One more thing fat boys have a hard time bending over that fat fender. i need to get serious about this gig and I am going pull off the front end and get to work.

 

try reds headers and speed equipment , even yer local parts house might suprise ya ! reds is an online site for all of us loonies with flatheads both 4, 8, and the venerable y block too .... www.reds-headers .net .