Just fired up the motor but it wont run???
#1
Just fired up the motor but it wont run???
Ok so this motor has been sitting for 4+ years totally rebuilt and never broken in. I rewired it with electronic ignition and put the 2 barrel carb it came with back on. I couldnt get the fuel to pump in through the fuel pump so i filled the float bowl directly through the vents. the truck fired up and ran for 10 or 15 seconds then died. thats about as good as it got. I was sucking fuel from a gas can back where the tank is supposed to hook up but the fuel pump never seemed to draw it up to the carb. By the time i had it figured out I think I over loaded the manifold with fuel. I actually started a fire in the carb on the last attempt. the times i got it to run momentarily i couldn get it to rev when i hit the throttle. I was wondering if a huge vaccum leak could cause this. So here is my game plan for now. Ill check firing order again on the spark plugs, pull them out to air dry the manifold and cylinders. pull the carb and pull it apart and possibly rebuild it. change out the the spacer block under the carb with a simple aluminum one with no vaccum ports. change out the fuel pump, Install the tank and fill it with fuel. Id like to get some thoughts on the aluminum spacer before I use it so ill post a pic for all to see.
Basically im wondering if there is anything im forgetting.
also I did convert the truck to electronic ignition and im using the electronic module from a 78 F250 that had a 460 auto in it. Thats not a problem right? I got the coil to read 7volts on the positive side but when i leave the key in the on position with the truck off the coil starts getting hot almost too hot to touch.
Basically im wondering if there is anything im forgetting.
also I did convert the truck to electronic ignition and im using the electronic module from a 78 F250 that had a 460 auto in it. Thats not a problem right? I got the coil to read 7volts on the positive side but when i leave the key in the on position with the truck off the coil starts getting hot almost too hot to touch.
#2
Without a steady supply of fuel, you're chasing your tail
That's probably the reason you couldn't hit the throttle, the fuel bowl was probably almost empty and the accelerator pump wasn't getting any gas.
Figure out why the fuel pump is not pumping. Could be it be that it's got the wrong arm on it for the FE's fuel pump eccentric on the front of the cam gear?
That's probably the reason you couldn't hit the throttle, the fuel bowl was probably almost empty and the accelerator pump wasn't getting any gas.
Figure out why the fuel pump is not pumping. Could be it be that it's got the wrong arm on it for the FE's fuel pump eccentric on the front of the cam gear?
#4
You can always check your fuel pump first. even using your gas jug as a tank, remove the line form the carb, attach a hose, and crank the engine. At least 1 pint of fuel in 30 seconds.
You can also put a vacuum gauge on your pump input. While cranking Ford says you should get 6 inHg min. I got 17 inHg when I checked my Carter pump.
I agree with Krewat.....it probably won't rev with only the gas you dribbled in the intake. There may be other problems, but you need to make sure the carb is getting fuel properly first.
You can also put a vacuum gauge on your pump input. While cranking Ford says you should get 6 inHg min. I got 17 inHg when I checked my Carter pump.
I agree with Krewat.....it probably won't rev with only the gas you dribbled in the intake. There may be other problems, but you need to make sure the carb is getting fuel properly first.
#6
Well....if the one in the pic is the one you want to you, I think it needs some refinishing. Probably a sander will work.
Vacuum leaks....they can make an engine run strangely, often a problem with idle, but less at higher rpms. An air leak is usually less significant at higher rpms as it's a small amount compared to the air getting swucked in the carb, but at lower rpms, the leak is a more significant percentage.
And they can run hot as the mixture is too lean. I've had headers glow red at idle from a vacuum leak....it was a big leak though.
Interestingly, I've had carbs freeze up....throttle all full of ice, from a carb base gasket leak. Carb was pretty loose though. You're not near that problem yet though.
Vacuum leaks....they can make an engine run strangely, often a problem with idle, but less at higher rpms. An air leak is usually less significant at higher rpms as it's a small amount compared to the air getting swucked in the carb, but at lower rpms, the leak is a more significant percentage.
And they can run hot as the mixture is too lean. I've had headers glow red at idle from a vacuum leak....it was a big leak though.
Interestingly, I've had carbs freeze up....throttle all full of ice, from a carb base gasket leak. Carb was pretty loose though. You're not near that problem yet though.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post