So.............. Now that I know which part I am looking at, and found no voltage, I checked the fuse block, I don't have the manual with the diagram, so I was just using a flashlight to visually check if the fuse had blown... found a 15 amp mini fuse that was blown... got a replacement.... and EVERYTHING IS GOOD!!!!! Just took the truck on a test drive... No hesitation, no stalling, runs great... cleared the codes... no codes came back... all over a friggin's fuse...

Now I have to do a little research and find out what fuse that was...

 

I went over all of my fuses and was missing a couple, but neither of them seemed to be logical. What was the fuse number? Was it on the side of the dash or in the power distribution block? Try page 189-194 of this manual. This should be the same as your '99, it is the same as my '00.

Now I'm curious to know what voltage you have on the two wires in running and non-running key-ON conditions to see if mine agrees with yours.

Great to hear that it is fixed, and A+ for posting up after you found the problem. So many posts on here never have a resolution at the end.

 

Help. I am having this same issue. I have checked my fuses and thats not it. My engine sputter when I accelerate. Has anyone been able to detemine the primary issue? Where would you recommend I pull apart next. Mechanic next door told me to change the oxygen sensor before the catl.... I did and that didnt help.

 

Check at the cannister for damaged wires, I had the same problem and found that the squirrels were eating the wires. I took the wires from an Expedition I'm parting out and did the repair for nothing and when I finished I wiped down all of the wires under my truck with Tobasco Sauce. Squirrels don't like Tobasco Sauce.

 

Noted in this post is a fuse that controls or is in the circuit for the EVAP solenoid.

Can anyone advise.

 

At least for the 4.0L OHV engine, the Canister Vent Solenoid fuse is fuse #13 (15A mini) in the Battery Junction Box.

-Rod

 

ok, so i have a 1998 Ford Explorer and was also having the hesitation and what seemed like stalling problems with the truck. after coming to this forum, i learned that in order to fix the P1451 Evap Emissions System Vent Control Valve Malfunction code, i needed to check the Mini 13 fuse in the fuse block under the hood next to the battery. sure enough, the fuse had burned so bad that it colored the black box on the inside with white burn marks and the fuse itself was half blue and half black. although the fuse did test good for continuity with an ohm meter, i still replaced it with a new and the truck runs like a champ again!!! cleared all the codes, drove it like crazy, turned it off and on several times, no new codes. so since i'd just had the transmission rebuilt at 289,000 miles, it's like having a brand new truck again, only without the new truck smell.

thank you all for having this forum and the knowledge here is awesome! i'll be back to post things as i find them with my truck as the days and miles click by.

 

Based on your description of the fuse and that it still had continuity, I'd definitely suggest you keep an eye on that fuse for further signs of overheating. It sounds like maybe the contacts in the fuse box are worn and the fuse is not making a reliable connection. Continuous intermittent connection can lead to overheating, and it sounds like that's may be what's happened to your prior fuse.

-Rod

 

yeah i agree. i'm going to replace that whole fuse block once i get some other bills paid off first. there is a lot of cracking going on in it. even though it's just the plastic that's cracking, the truck is old enough, has tons of mileage, and has survived many brutal arizona summers. so it's best just to put a new one in there. hopefully it will stop that fuse from blowing.

 

This is probably supposed to be a new thread, but I just joined and can't seem to figure out how to start new threads so I'll give this is a shot.

I had a p1451 code on my 99 explorer so I checked the vent solenoid on the canister above the spare tire and found that the wires had been chewed on/ broken at the solenoid connector. It broke too close to the connector to splice so I got a new connector. However, now that I have a new connector I can't find the old one to determine which wire to connect to which terminal.

Q: How do you determine which pin terminal is positive on the new connector? (I've already checked the original wires and it reads 12v , I just don't know which terminal on the new connector is positive/ negative)

 

It's a solenoid so the polarity really doesn't matter. Since the connector has two wires, you should be able to hook them up either way and the solenoid will work.

-Rod

 

One of my connecters coming from the purge selenoid isnjust kinda stuck in the hose leading to under the battery. Could it be sucking air? The connections look good at the selenoid itself

 

Are you referring to an electrical connector being stuck in a hose, an electrical connector being stuck in a wiring loom, or a rubber hose? An electrical connector won't suck air, but it shouldn't be stuck in a hose either. Any chance you can post a photo of what you're asking about?

-Rod

 

Thanks for posting this thread!!! My 99 Explorer was stalling out in gear. I found you thread. Looked for the #13 mini fuse and Bingo! it was blown, went to my junk drawer in my tool box found a old 15A mini and swapped it. The Ford Explorer is back to life baby!!!! I can't believe thats all it was and it cost me $0 to fix. Thanks you boys!!!