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is there away to adjust the gear shifter

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  #16  
Old 12-18-2011, 01:50 PM
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I found the screws on mine right away. They both seem to be tight, but my shifter remains loose as well.

It almost seems like something inside the shifter pole is rattling...
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  #17  
Old 12-19-2011, 11:24 AM
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There is a plastic shim/spacer bushing that sits in the pivot point of the shifter. That could be loose/worn/missing. Check out that area to look for the play. It's very easy to get in and see that area on the top of the column. A few screws from underneath and I think you have to roll the lock tumbler and push a release button in the tumbler. Then you are in.

My shifter is lazy and I have to lift it slightly to release the key.
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  #18  
Old 07-23-2012, 02:53 PM
Neipaz Neipaz is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sddesigns View Post
Here is what they look like! The two brass colored screws directly up from my finger, don't remove both screws, if they are loose tighten up one, then remove the other put a drop of red Lock-Tite on it, then tighten that one down, and repeat on the other one.
I was wondering if someone could tell me how I can get replacements for these bolts. I went to tighten mine and found that one had recently had the head broken off. My truck's build is a Ford e-350 2004.
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  #19  
Old 08-06-2012, 07:11 AM
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There are plastic bushings that the shifter rod tube ride in on the top of the column to where the "brass colored" torx screws are at, if they wear out it can cause some play, as well as the pivot point where the shifter attaches to the column assy.
I have had to replace the tube twice on my F450. The first time I found my screws were loose and as I was tightening them up I found the part the screw goes into was broken off on the high side. I picked up a column from a junk yard and pulled the piece off of it. It cost me 50 bucks. I pulled the column completely out and replaced the outer shift tube, I reassembled it using the parts out of the broken one from my truck, put it all back in and it worked great.... for about 6 months, I was backing in at home and as i went to put it in park the entire tube broke in two. (I remembered right then that the column that was such a great deal had the air bag deployed on it. I guess it was damaged though it looked just fine.) I checked at the local dealer and the tube was less then 40 bucks.

The second time i did it, was at work. I didn't pull the column out as I was sure it could be done just dropping it down. Yes it can be done, but I wish I had pulled it out all the way, as I ended up bending the park switch assembly, and now I have to hold the shifter all the way up so it will let me turn the ignition all the way off.

I have to check the bolts on the 2000 Excursion I just got. It has a sloppy shifter on it. It has gotten progressively worse in just the 2 days I have owned it too.

Oh on the bolts they are not hard to get, I am sure the dealer has them, had I kept the column that I bought, I would have some extra, as there are 4 of them on the caps that shift tube rides in. Sorry. That is what I get for cleaning up around here...
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  #20  
Old 09-02-2014, 10:50 AM
CLDTennessee CLDTennessee is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel View Post
1. Move your driver seat all the way back
2. Remove the lower dash (4 thumbscrews)
3. Chock the wheels and set the parking brake
4. Get your keys and turn it to the first position
5. Drop the shift lever into 1st
6. Lay on your back and look up while gently moving the gear shift and you'll notice two brass colored screws that are either loose if not about to fall out.
7. R&R the two torx screws with some loctite and never worry about the problem again. Worked for me!
Thank you for this post! After paying for linkage replacement and still the problem persisted for 8 months your post solved this issue for my wife's excursion. This is also in spite of having Ford Dealership and two other shops review the issue. Truly appreciative!
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  #21  
Old 09-02-2014, 11:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CLDTennessee View Post
Thank you for this post! After paying for linkage replacement and still the problem persisted for 8 months your post solved this issue for my wife's excursion. This is also in spite of having Ford Dealership and two other shops review the issue. Truly appreciative!
What's amazing is that this simple fix only would've cost you maybe $5 for the bottle of Loctite and maybe $10 for the torx screw driver and a few minutes of your time versus paying to replace all those unnecessary parts and dealership labor rates. Plus not having use of your vehicle for the day and getting a rental car.
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  #22  
Old 09-03-2014, 11:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toreador_Diesel View Post
1. Move your driver seat all the way back
2. Remove the lower dash (4 thumbscrews)
3. Chock the wheels and set the parking brake
4. Get your keys and turn it to the first position
5. Drop the shift lever into 1st
6. Lay on your back and look up while gently moving the gear shift and you'll notice two brass colored screws that are either loose if not about to fall out.
7. R&R the two torx screws with some loctite and never worry about the problem again. Worked for me!
Thanks, I think that solved my intermittent starting issue and definitely tightened up the shifter. I couldn't really see the upper bolt so loctite was not going to happen, I'm just glad i could tighten them down.
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  #23  
Old 02-22-2015, 09:03 PM
WCDD95 WCDD95 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neipaz View Post
I was wondering if someone could tell me how I can get replacements for these bolts. I went to tighten mine and found that one had recently had the head broken off. My truck's build is a Ford e-350 2004.
Has anyone found where to get replacements yet? Mine is broke off also.
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  #24  
Old 02-23-2015, 11:53 AM
emsteere emsteere is offline
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Keep in mind, after you tighten those bolts on the column, there are two other adjustment points for the shifter that will align it properly to hit each gear. Both under the truck. The end of the shift cable is adjustable and the shift position sensor is also adjustable.

Disconnect the cable and manually put the trans in park or low. Then adjust the position sensor to work with every position. Next put the trans in neutral and connect the cable. Before locking the cable on make sure the indicator is right on the column. Snap the lock and you should be good to go!
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  #25  
Old 02-23-2015, 12:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WCDD95 View Post
Has anyone found where to get replacements yet? Mine is broke off also.
Can you post a pic? If it's the under column you might just need to extract the screw/bolt and grab another one from the hardware store and swap it in
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  #26  
Old 02-23-2015, 02:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emsteere View Post
Keep in mind, after you tighten those bolts on the column, there are two other adjustment points for the shifter that will align it properly to hit each gear. Both under the truck. The end of the shift cable is adjustable and the shift position sensor is also adjustable.

Disconnect the cable and manually put the trans in park or low. Then adjust the position sensor to work with every position. Next put the trans in neutral and connect the cable. Before locking the cable on make sure the indicator is right on the column. Snap the lock and you should be good to go!
Make sure the truck is on jack stands and stable before you do this. Don't want the truck rolling while you're inverted looking up under the steering column.
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  #27  
Old 02-23-2015, 02:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jh818 View Post
Make sure the truck is on jack stands and stable before you do this. Don't want the truck rolling while you're inverted looking up under the steering column.
Or use that brake that's made for emergencies... can't remember the name of it though...
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  #28  
Old 02-23-2015, 07:57 PM
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Originally Posted by jh818 View Post
Make sure the truck is on jack stands and stable before you do this. Don't want the truck rolling while you're inverted looking up under the steering column.
My mistake - should have mentioned the safety factor first.
Please use the parking brake and chock the wheels.

I don't recommend jack stands at all unless removing a wheel. Use ramps if you don't fit under the truck. Mine is a 4x4 so no lifting is required to access the transmission linkages underneath.
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  #29  
Old 02-24-2015, 09:28 PM
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If it saves someone time, mine took a T-25 sized torx.
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  #30  
Old 02-25-2015, 08:41 PM
sgarder sgarder is offline
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Another place to look is the shift lever to the shift shaft. The pin will wear the housing. ford's fix for this is.

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