Well the front passenger side brake line blew off today so now i have to fix it by 8 am tommorow (This is are familys only transportation due to the flood ruining are other vehicle and mom needs to leave for work by 8 am hence the reason i need some advice ASAP!) My first question is how do i get the line/coupling in picture 1 and 2 off? i tried a rachect and it wont even move or do i loosen the smaller nut on the actually brake line? second is the nut in the third picture the nut that i loosen to bleed the brakes? and lastly how do i bleed the brakes? in what order? I know im suppost to put the fluid in the reservior and leave the cap off and pump the brakes till the fluid stops bubbling to let the air out right? Also how do i do the drums in the rear? Any advice or suggestions is greatly appreciated! the truck is a 95 f150 4x4 351 w ext. cab long wheel base and im guessing it has 4 wheel abs sense its 4x4 if that has anything to do with it?

 

Let me start by saying its clear you really need experienced help with this problem, a few comments from members such as us here on a help board are not going to give you the experience you require to insure the truck is safe to drive.

I will however try and lay it out for you, first if the master cylinder ran dry of fluid you will need to "bench bleed" it first and then the truck lines once the line/s has been repaired.

The line, yes you need to hold the remainder of that rubber line from spinning in the frame and loosen the metal lines fitting from the back side. Then remove the clip holding the remainder of the blown rubber line from the frame. The new rubber line will include that section and the clip will be reused.

As far as getting it loose, as rusty as it looks to be is you will likely need a torch to heat it first or you will likely round off or break/twist off the end of metal section of line resulting in replacing it too. May end up requiring replacement regardless. When I say torch I do not mean one of them little hand held propane types, it won't get the part hot enough to help. I'm talking full size oxy/acetylene torch.

The bleeder for that wheel, will be up top near where line connects to caliper, not sure what your arrow points at in pic 3 but looks like steering limiter stop bolt.

Bleeding all the wheels won't be easy or fun. All bleeders might require heating to remove and may require replacement once broke loose.

Bleeder on the RABS valve, inside frame rail approx under the drivers feet, will also need bleed as well.

I strongly suggest you wait find someone that is reasonably proficient in brake systems to aid you in the repairs. Based on your post/questions here, figure your working alone tonight if you do? Knowing some of the issues you will no doubt encounter to complete this task, its not likely you will repair it by 8am anyway.

 

The master cylinder did run dry... my mom told me about the problem 10 minutes after it acquired... My buddy next store has done this plenty of times and said all i had to do is fix the rubber hose and tighten it. Then do the farthest brake from the cylinder first. Put fluid in the reservoir with the cap off have my dad press the brake pedal down slowly till little or no bubbles happen tighten the nut down then repeat on the other 3. I have not done this before but i have basic mechanically knowledge on what to do and how it should be done. What i planned on doing was getting everything done drive it around the yard a few times and if the brakes arent doing there job like there suppost to then i will of course have to have my buddy look at it. I also have some directions and pictures from the autozone repair guide which will walk me through it. If i have to ill stay up all night to get it done but sense i am a novice at this i thought it would be better the ask on here where there is alot of folks that have alot more knowledge on this then i do.

 

The master cylinder did run dry.

Ok that's good save you lot of work right there.

Sounds like you have some help over the gray areas so you should be able to get it.

As far as bleeding the brakes, just a little tweak/adjustment to your method.

Fill the master with fluid, put the cap on, have em pump the pedal full strokes several times. Have him hold the pedal down on the last pump, while he holds pressure on it open a bleeder, he'll slowly press the pedal to the floor. When it hits the floor close the bleeder and then he can pump the pedal again, he does not let the pedal up until you have tightened the bleeder. Repeat each wheel until no more air is seen coming from a bleeder and the pedal no longer pumps up.

When I say "pumps up", if the system still contains air you will feel the pedal pump up, the travel will decrease with every couple of pumps until it achieves normal travel distance. When it no longer does that all the air is removed.

When you think you have it, all the air is out, stop pumping and let it sit a few minutes, then hit the pedal once. If the pedal stops at is normal distance and doesn't change with each additional pump you have all the air out. The pedal pumper, he'll feel "pump up" if you go over it briefly before starting the process. Keep in mind it won't happen until you get some pedal to start with after bleeding it a couple times, it won't go all the way to the floor anymore.

Stop often, check/add more fluid to the master cylinder so it doesn't run dry.

If it didn't/doesn't run dry at any point, you will not have to bleed the rear brakes, only the two front wheels.

Oh and let the motor idle while you bleed the brakes, save on the leg some!!

 

Thanks for all the advice danr1! i got the rusted coupling to move in place i sprayed it with some penetrating oil but the actually male end that gos into the coupling still wont loosen up for some reason I sprayed it with some more penetrating oil and will hopefully loosen it up a bit so i can get it off... This is defiantly the worst part/nut/bolt i have ever tried to get off in my life! and its keeping me from doing everything else! my old man said i should heat it up like you said but unfortunately we got rid of all of are welding supply's about 3 years ago any other suggestions? I know the metal brake line is fragile so i am not trying to put to much stress on it.

 

Well i got the line replaced after countless hours of trying to get the old one of using half a bottle of penatrating oil and 2 vice grips... now i ran into another problem... the back right drum brake, the male end you loosen to bleed the drum brake is broke off... I know i gotta do the back left then right front then back right and finally left front but how would i bleed the that drum brake with the broken male end? Do i really even need to bleed the rear drum brakes sense the line that broke was the front passenger side? Just trying to confirm everything before i start