Have a problem with some low oil pressure...running 20w-50 fresh oil and I decided to not believe the idiot light not working in the dash. I put a mechanical gauge in this weekend...glad I did!
Basically, have 50lbs when it starts, drops to 15-20 cruising when hot, 5-10 when idling

Engine runs like a top actually, 22inches of vacuum, no knocking, runs cool, etc. so this is my only indicator

engine was in the truck when I bought it so history is unknown...so I don't know what the clearances are.

I would like to pull the pan and at least put a shimmed HV pump in it for now to see if that helps...

SO, can you pull the oil pan on a 77 F350 2wd without yankin the engine? My 73 F100 with a 360 was dang near impossible, so I'm familiar with the PITA involved...

Thanks y'all!
-BleednBlue

 

My self, I would not use a HV pump, go with a stock type. HV pump will pump a lot of volumne but not a increase in pressure. As far as the pan, you my not get it out all the way, but it should drop down and to the side enough to unbolt the pump, and replace it.

 

I wouldn't get to bent over the low pressure unless you are pulling max loads in the mountains or drag racing. I have seen engines last for years as long as the pressures don't go down to zero and you maintain your normal oil level. A lot of FE engines have low oil pressures also.

 

These are my thoughts as well.

If you are still going to pull the pan I WOULD install a high volume pump. I guess mine and bertha66's experiences differ on them, but the ones I have installed in lower oil pressure engines most definitely increase oil pressure. I think they are a good solution to get a little better pressure out of a slightly worn engine on a budget. I would not hurt to check the bearings while you are there but I'm assuming thats why you want to pull the pan in the first place.

 

Thanks for all the replies, really appreciate the help! Have more Q's
I've build several engines for these trucks, all FE's though, so these 460's are a new animal
This truck was my tow vehicle for my racecar...now it's #1...other car got totalled in a wreck Thursday, waiting on the "other party" insurance now

I've got some worries about this motor to start with...
-valve covers are different from each other (60's "PBF" vs 70's "PBF") which is kinda odd...it in itself is no big deal, but why would you change ONE valvecover?
-After sitting for 3-4hrs it has a slight knock at startup (yep, that kind of deep tone knock) until the oil pressure comes up. (just for a second or two) Never hear it again and it runs like a top.
-Heater fitting on front of intake is broken off and I will have to dig it out before winter...
-Slight tick on top of valve train...can feel it thru the valvecover.

My additional Q's:
SO, there is "enough" room to drop the pan, get to the oil pump bolts and then remove the pan under the mains... when it's loose, can you get it far enough forward past the front sway bar (XLT with factory sway)? Will it hit a super duty radiator lower tank?
Can you get the oil pan gasket back on properly?
Was not really planning on pulling rod caps or main caps to check bearings...but I guess it could be done while I'm there, at least on the fronts...

Ultimately, I have access to a known 1984 F350 460 top to bottom for $200...
Is this block, head, exhaust manifold combo the same for A/C bracket swap, crank pulleys, etc. to transfer from my 77 or is this another can o worms?

Debating of the PITA factor vs just pulling the motor out completely...(different set of PITA factors, but easier on the back

Again, REALLY appreciate everyone's input!
-Bleednblue

 

My thoughs on the HV pump is , if the oil passages do not get the oil back to the pan well enough and fast enough, the pump will loose pressure