I've got a 2002 Excursion I bought new with the 7.3 Turbo Diesel, Ultimate Limited, 4X4, LOADED, presently has 25,299 miles, still smells like NEW leather, has all the bells and whistles (listing over $50K + Extras). NEVER a problem with it until now.

I've never joined a forum before and really don't know if I can get some insight or advice, but the way Ford Service charges for their "Expertise", I figured I would ask for help from you guys (or ladies). The last 4 years or so, I have barely driven the Excursion (I am pretty well home-bound with COPD and other problems), so it sits under my carport. Being unstarted for around 4 months, the batteries lost their charge, I had my travel club jump me and I got the batteries recharged by driving it.

Just recently, on several occasions, over several days, I would start it up and all the gauges would go crazy in the instrument cluster: they went back and forth from peg to peg (0 to maximum). The odometer display would go out then come back on with a row of 8s or 0s, I don't remember. Also, some of the lights would flash. After a few minutes of this erratic behaviour, the gauges would go back to normal operation. I took and left the truck at Town East Ford in Mesquite, TX. I am being charged $109 for a diagnostics check (couldn't find any thing wrong), so the service writer and mechanic went for a test drive and the problem still did not present itself. But the service writer called me the next day and said I needed a new instrument cluster installed, total cost being around $800, mainly labor. Does an instrument cluster sound right for the problem I am having?

Although I did not mention this to the service writer, the front passenger power door lock requires at least 6 pushes on the button on the driver's door or on the remote fob to unlock the door. Door locking is excellent. But that is probably an unrelated problem.

Maybe this is Ford's way of punishing me for not having problems with my Excursion the first 8 years. Heck, I've never used the 4 wheel drive, although I have pulled a little trailer with it. Anyway, maybe somebody can tell me something. Thanks. Walter

 

This sounds like a ground problem. When the batteris were replaced did they clean the cables, connections well? Also check the ground straps from the engine to frame.

 

I didn't replace the batteries. Just the jump start is all I had to get going that day. I have not needed any additional jump starts since, either. When asked, the service writer told me there was no loose connections, no corrosion on the cables. Still, I just do not trust those service writers. I do remember one thing: I asked him to put the removed instrument cluster in the back seat of the Excursion and he made the mention of "might be a "core" charge. I thought radiators had cores.

 

What lights were flashing?

The gauge sweeps are normal for when you disconnect the battery, or when they have such a low charge that they need a jump start. It's also the tell-tale sign you need to replace the batteries.

You always want to replace both batteries at the same time.

You didn't give them the green light to change the cluster, did you?

Stewart

 

The service writer did not mention anything about replacing the batteries. They ARE 8 years old. I gave the go-ahead on the cluster. It is supposed to be finished today. You know, General Motors guarantees their replacement parts for a lifetime (Mr. Goodwrench). IF the cluster does not solve the problem should I receive a refund for unnecessary parts or whatever until Ford gets it right? I have always detested Town East Ford but they are the in close proximity to my home. I just talked to the service writer and said he had been told by the "Ford people" that the instrument cluster was the culprit. When asked, he had NOT checked the batteries. It will be done, after telling him about this forum. We'll see what happens now.

 

I might step on a few toes, for that I apologize in advance.

But... most service writers are right up there with the front line staff at a McDonalds. They generally know nothing about cars and trucks. It's there job to greet you and list your problem on a work order when you arrive. They can however think up some pretty creative excuses occasionaly to explain this or that. I wouldn't pay attention to anything a service writer tells me.

They generally don't even list the symptoms you explain to them. On my last visit the service writer wrote "blowing fuses". The mechanic later told me that if he had known as much as I had told the service writer, he would have known right away what the major malfuction was.

 

From the time you mentioned the gauges sweeping from peg to peg, the batteries were the first thing that came to mind. 1999-2001 trucks don't do that. but the 2002+ trucks do when the batteries have a low charge or are disconnected. (per Stewart_H suggestion)

 

Bad dealerships give good dealerships a bad name. A lot of times, you'll see forums (like this one) refer to dealership "mechanics" as parts-changers because that's all they do, change parts. Instead of a thorough and proper diagnostics, they'll throw new parts at a problem, hoping to fix whatever the problem might be.

This appears to be even more apparent with the dealership "mechanics" who service 7.3L PSD's, judging by the posts and threads over in the 7.3L forum.

Good mechanics at a dealership know how to properly diagnose a problem and fix it.

As an example, my brothers 2000 Mustang with a 4R70W transmission started having shifting problems a couple weeks ago. The dealership would have wanted to R&R the trans, rebuild it, and reflash his PCM to fix his first gear to second gear shifting problem.

I did some research on the 'net, called John Wood (premier transmission builder on the west coast) and sent Mark Kovalsky (a member here, and retired Ford trans engineer) a PM.

From what I was able to conclude, it seemed like my brothers trans had broken the one-two shift accumulator spring. A spring that is easily accessible once the trans pan is removed.

I removed the pan, accessed the shift spring location, confirmed a broken spring was the problem, and ordered the new parts. I paid $22 bucks for two new springs (an upper and lower spring) and the "shift piston" that goes between the springs. The parts should be here today. That, coupled with a new filter and trans fluid is all it will cost my brother to fix his trans. He saved well over a thousand dollars because he didn't go to the dealership and get ripped off.

Doncha love how they diagnose your problem? "Hey, it sounds like this might be the problem. Let's throw parts at it!"

Just FYI, they are as cynical about the Internet as we are about dealerships. As well they should be too. Just like good and bad dealerships, there's good info to be found on the 'net, and bad info.

I can't speak for the rest of FTE because I don't visit the other forums, but for us (and the 7.3L forum), we usually get it right for the people who need help. While nothing is perfect, I dare say 99% of the info found here and the 7.3L forum is correct.

Where do you live? What's your location?

Stewart

 

I would not pay for a new instrument cluster, my money it on bad batteries! I would spend money for 2 new top of the line batteries and make sure all cables are clean and I bet this will fix the problem!
He said he lives in Mesquite which is on the east side of Dallas.
Also have the alternator checked out.

 

I'll agree-- the truck was started with a jump, the batteries charged by driving only, and are 8 years old. Without charging them completely with a bench charger and doing a cap check on them, there is no real way of telling battery condition, but given their age, the fact that they aren't deep cycle batteries to begin with, and the erratic behavior of the electrical in the truck (due to the low voltage condition of the batteries), you may have just given away a lot of money when two new Motorcraft batteries would cure all that ails the truck.

 

"Surprise, Surprise, Sergeant Carter, GAAAWLEE", said Gomer Pyle.
When I had called and spoke with the service writer earlier today, he said he was waiting for the new instrument cluster to arrive. A few minutes after getting off the phone with the service writer, telling him not to install it, and to cancel the work order, he called me back and told me that the new instrument cluster had already been installed. It took me about 30 minutes to get there and when I asked for my old one back, he said I would have to pay over $300 because of the "core charge". He said the old one gets returned, repaired and placed in a "Remanufactured Parts" box to be resold again. That turns their $700+ job into a $1000+ job. Not bad for 1 hour's TOTAL work, since it took about 25 minutes to change out 1 cluster completely. BULL!!!!!! I told him to put my original cluster back in. I hope he didn't ask the technician to sabotage my Excursion since I could not see inside while he was working on the dash. I got hit for $437.02 and I think I have good reason to dispute the credit card charge. Only thing is: I'm back to square one. Since the batteries ARE 8 years old, I will replace them (but not at a Ford dealership), maybe Firestone or Sears. Will I have to get anything re-programmed because of the change-out? Ya'll have been very helpful for me and I'll let you know of the final outcome, if there is one.

 

If you have a Costco near you, I'd buy the batteries from there.

I can't see why you would need anything reprogrammed, but hopefully someone else who is more sure than I am will chime in.

Also, where are you located? There might be an FTE brother who lives close and could use his AE (if he has one) to help diagnose any other problems you might have.

Stewart

 

same thing with my 2000 7.3 gauges would go crazy airbag light on
changed batteries no more problems

 

Stewart H : live in Mesquite, Texas (a suburban city that borders on the eastern city limits of Dallas. My phone number is 972-270-3012. Costco, although I am not a member, sells batteries but doesn't install them. So, I'll make a few phone calls and try to get me a pair of 800 cold cranking hour batteries and I shoould be good to go.

 

One thing I can say about batteries is that the Motorcraft batts are awfully good to last 8+ years (I have the originals in my '02 as well- they're still good and just passed a cap check AOK). Although there is little I would give to my local Ford dealership as far as work or parts sales, they do give special deals on batteries and tires at their service center, and the folks I've known with Ford diesels (including myself) experience longer life out of the Motorcraft batts than aftermarket of any type. See what their price is as a comparison- it may surprise you.