THe engine is no longer in the 85 it is getting installed into a 96
info
1985 Ford F150 XL, Canandian truck with Non Catalyst factory setup.
1996 Ford F150 XL
Both are Standard trans

now i have it all ready but the wiring im confused as a few colors change on me

The IGN control box has 6 wires
Red
White
Orange
Black
Purple
Green
They pug into the trucks harness as follows

Red into White W/ blue dash
White into Red W/blue stripe
Orange into Orange w/yellow dash
Black into Black W/green dash
Purple into Purple W/blue dash
Green into Green w/ dot (forget the dots colour)

i traced green and it go's to coil negative, and runs back inside the truck to the dash cluster and terminates to nothing so coil signal (non tack cluster is what it has)

now my issue is the red/white swap and where do i find the resistor part i havent seen one yet,

and the Coils positive is wired to Red W/green stripe and i tested that and its a non resisted ign switched wire to the battery?

so im a little lost on the resistor part

oh and with the 96's coil feed support the draw the older style coil has? if it will im going to try feeding it from the 96's coil hot wire

This 85 engine does run and works good (drove it into the shop) before i removed it

Thanks all

 

First off... I did not know a 96 truck harness would have the matching plugs for the DS2 module.

What engine size is the 85 engine?

The red/white color swap at the DS2 modules 2 wire power plug is normal. On the module side of the plug the red wire should have power in RUN/START and the white in just START.

I don't believe a 96 will have a resistor wire in the truck side of the harness.
I would deal with the resistor issue after it is running and you can take some coil voltage measurements at idle.

Did the 96 have a square coil?
Are you using a round coil now?
What P/N DS2 module are you using? after market or motorcraft?
The current draw (coil feed support) will depend on the total circuit resistance, this is mostly a non issue if you are using a round coil. If you have a ohm meter, compare reading across the small terminals of the two coils.

After it is running we can sort out the need for a resistor and/or other options.

Jim

 

IT doesn't have matching plugs i am building a patch harness to do it so all stock connectors are there and all parts are using stock connectors

Both are 300" I6's

Where would the resistor be in the 85's harness?

Module is a after marker im thinking as its not branded ford or motorcraft anywhere on it just says "Heavy Duty"

Yes 96 uses a Square coil
Yes i am using a round one for the 85 motor

Anything else? (sorry just ina hurry right now way to much going on and not having my truck sucks lol)

Thanks for the help

 

The resistor wire is burried in the truck harness from the IGN switch to near the 4 wire connector, near where the DS2 module mounts. It is not something you can move to the 96.

There are other options, like using a ballast resistor.

Will post a picture of the resistor wires location shortly.

 

The resistor wire is the rubbery feeling pink one (smaller center wire in pic) in the 3 in 1 out splice just above the wire cutters show in the photo.
The brown wire is the start bypass wire. The large red one is a "resistor bypass" wire.
The photo is from my 1986 with a 300. The 85 should be the same.
.
Does the 85 have a starter solenoid with 2 large and 2 small terminals?
Are you going to use the newer style starter or the one on the 85?
.

 

more info here
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-switches.html

Franklin2 can post a wiring diagram, I could find one

 

found one

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ml#post4418992

 

Thanks for the picture and links
85's solenoid is a 3 post unit, the 96's is a 4 post using only 3 posts
Newer style starter as I' using the M5R2 trans and the 85 uses the older style starter and the 96's was about 3 weeks old

 

Some pictures i took with my crackberry
Prior to removal


Ign Control box


and its wires


In the 96 still needing hooking up





Will take better shots with my Digital cam when its done

 

MY coil is [Here

what resistance do i need to use to make this work out guys?

 

The ballast resistor should be close the the coil primary resistance.

So look for a ballast resistor around 1.2 ohm or 1.0 ohm

 

Autozone has a Mallory resistor part number 700. They also have a part number CR105 for a Chrysler, but they don't list the ohm value. It would be simple enough to take you meter to the store and check it, especially since it's so much cheaper. You might want to search for other Chrysler vehicles and see if they have different resistors in stock.

 

Only one the local part store had was a 4.8 ohm dual unit so I could wire it to 2.4 ohm but its still higher then the 1.4 ohm of my coil

How close is good enough ?

 

2.4 ohm is too high; basically the ballast resistor would drop 2/3 of the applied voltage leaving 1/3 left for the coil. The ballast resistor works as a voltage divider. I would like to see 6-8 volts at the coil positive but would be OK with 10 volts at idle on the coil positive.
Higher voltage at the coil positive (lower ohm ballast resistor) means higher current flow and thus the coil and the DS2 module can get to hot and fail.


2.4 + 1.4 = 3.8

2.4 divided 3.8 = .63

.63 x 14 volts = 8.84 volt drop across the ballast resistor and 5.15 volts at the coil positive

Voltage Divider Calculator

input voltage = 14 (or what your ALT produces at idle)
R1 = ballast resistor
R2 = coil primary resistance
Output voltage = coil + voltage

 

Most ballast resistors have a high side and a low side. I haven’t seen a dual ballast resistor with equal resistances. The higher resistance side is usually around 5 ohm and the low side can vary from .5 ohm to 1.2 ohm.
If you use both 5 ohm and 1.2 ohm in parallel you would get .96774 ohms.
You should be able to find something that will work at a local auto part store.

Info here

Replacing electronic ignition completely in 1970s-1980s Chrysler, Dodge, and Plymouth cars and trucks