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85 I6 300 carbed - smog delete help please

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Old 10-14-2010, 09:09 PM
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85 I6 300 carbed - smog delete help please

Picked up an 85 f150 4wd truck. truck is tight but alot of the smog was removed. don't need smog here. I would like to get rid of the rest of the smog and have a good running truck. This is what i know about it. The guy i got it from had a rblt carb put on and it never ran rite after that. The one they put on has no electrical connector don't know what came off. The intake @ ext gaskets are shot so is the valve cover so i'm replaceing them now and would like to get rid of the rest of the smog on a tight budget.

MISSING - smog air pump , stock air cleaner , cat converter , and probably a lot more. A lot of plugged air / vac lines, wires going no ware.

there are 3 vac solenoids on the back of the valve cover with wires going to them . The dist has all wires no vac advance. EGR has large tube from ext manifold can i get rid of it and egr?

A friend has a dist with a vac advance and a electrical box he said should do it.
any help would be to cool or point me in the rite direction. thanks
 
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:55 PM
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You're doing a conversion from TFI ignition and feedback carb to DSII ignition and pre-feedback carb. Changing your truck is a violation of Federal Law except for off road only use.
To do the off road use conversion, you'll need the distributer, ignition module, coil, coil wire, and wiring harness from the left fenderwell to the distributer(it comes off as a unit), and depending on the carb you have, the carb.

This thread
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...-86-i-6-a.html

and this search will help.

Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - Search Results

Let us know how you're doing, and post more questions when you have them.
 
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:05 PM
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Thanks Frank for the help. this truck will stay on my 40 as a farm truck so i don't keep beating up my 03 I6 Cummings 3500 another great 6. after reading the posts ideally 80-83 parts would be best rite ?. carb has no electrical connections on it is it a feedback carb ? what to do with EGR sys?. thanks again Derrick
 
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Old 10-15-2010, 01:23 PM
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Correct, as 1984 was the first year of TFI-IV EEC-IV on the 300-6.

Preferably you want the Carb, the Distributor and the EGR valve to match the same engine calibration. Getting a Carb a Distributor and parts out of a 1980 F-350 would be best.
 
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Old 10-15-2010, 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Wyowanderer
You're doing a conversion from TFI ignition and feedback carb to DSII ignition and pre-feedback carb. Changing your truck is a violation of Federal Law except for off road only use.
Very true, and it goes one step further in California. You may not convert a vehicle that was designed for the highway for off road use only.
 
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Old 10-15-2010, 02:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Derrick lane
Thanks Frank for the help. this truck will stay on my 40 as a farm truck so i don't keep beating up my 03 I6 Cummings 3500 another great 6. after reading the posts ideally 80-83 parts would be best rite ?. carb has no electrical connections on it is it a feedback carb ? what to do with EGR sys?. thanks again Derrick
I'd use the carb you have (why don't you post up some pics of it?), most likely, and the dizzy, module, coil, harness and coil wire from an 80-83; they're very similar, enough to work perfect. I'd leave the EGR in place and just make sure it's connected to vacuum so that it works. The EGR actually allows you to run more timing.
You'll need to connect the 12V lead to the alternator field connection, and once you have the harness from the 80-83 in place, you can pull the computer out from under the dash and pull the snake of wires through the hole in the firewall as well.
 
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:14 PM
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Some of the EGR valves are computer controlled, using EGR solenoids.

He needs to get one that is calibrated correctly. There are over 100 different ones for the 300 between 1980-1983. Aftermarket EGR valves use seperate washers to calibrate them that you have to press or punch in, to get the number of valves down to a few.


There are a few computer controlled MCU - DS-II hybrids out there that you need to stay away from. These have a DS-II with feedback carb, and a EGR solenoid controlling timing from the MCU. The distributors vacuum advance is also different and has ported manifold vacuum to the vaccum advance at all times. The computer bleeds off vacuum to retard timing when needed. Vacuum advance works normally otherwise. These are also timed at 6 degrees instead of the normal 10 degrees due to the constant vacumm signal to the advance at idle.

These were found sporadiclly between 1981-1983. Why 1980 would be best to look at. F-350 because these had very little smog on them at all.

They also had different carb calibrations between automatic and standard transmission.

All these things need to work together correctly.
 
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Old 10-16-2010, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
Some of the EGR valves are computer controlled, using EGR solenoids.

He needs to get one that is calibrated correctly. There are over 100 different ones for the 300 between 1980-1983. Aftermarket EGR valves use seperate washers to calibrate them that you have to press or punch in, to get the number of valves down to a few.


There are a few computer controlled MCU - DS-II hybrids out there that you need to stay away from. These have a DS-II with feedback carb, and a EGR solenoid controlling timing from the MCU. The distributors vacuum advance is also different and has ported manifold vacuum to the vaccum advance at all times. The computer bleeds off vacuum to retard timing when needed. Vacuum advance works normally otherwise. These are also timed at 6 degrees instead of the normal 10 degrees due to the constant vacumm signal to the advance at idle.

These were found sporadiclly between 1981-1983. Why 1980 would be best to look at. F-350 because these had very little smog on them at all.

They also had different carb calibrations between automatic and standard transmission.

All these things need to work together correctly.
If the OP will buy a carb for an 83 F150/250/350, itwill work just fine. Yes, the '80 will work, but there is no need to limit yourself to that year, especially if he's going to the JY to find it. Don't buy a carb calibrated for CA emissions if you buy new. You COULD use a carb from a '71, but you'll have no place to hook up the bowl vent to the charcoal cannister- something that's good to have/do.
The EGR for the 83 nwill work fine as well, but why not leave the one he's got in situ and see if it works right? It might, mine does. It's best not to disable it completely.
I haven't ever seen the DS II hybryd- thanks for sharing. Do you have pics? I'd be curious to see it.
 
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Old 10-16-2010, 03:01 PM
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Here you go...

1981 with MCU and DS-II: typical california, AND some high altitude models. 1981-1983.



1981 control solenoids.



The carb from a 1971 will not bolt directly on without modification, due to mating differences in the intakes.

As I said before there are different calibrations for Manual and Automatic transmissions to be aware of as well as different smog calibrations. match tranny for tranny so to speak.
 
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Old 10-16-2010, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 81-F-150-Explorer
Here you go...

1981 with MCU and DS-II: typical california, AND some high altitude models. 1981-1983.



1981 control solenoids.



The carb from a 1971 will not bolt directly on without modification, due to mating differences in the intakes.

As I said before there are different calibrations for Manual and Automatic transmissions to be aware of as well as different smog calibrations. match tranny for tranny so to speak.
A carb from a 71 just need a few strokes of a rat tail file to make it fot; my point isn't that it's the best carb to use, but rather that it has no emissions at all.
And agreed, make sure you get the right carb for the tranny you've got.

Thanks for the photos- I never knew. Looks like something CA would require, doesn't it?
 
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Old 10-16-2010, 04:44 PM
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Definately, or unfortunately depending on your point of view.
 
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:41 PM
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I found these parts from a 79 i6 "harness , dist , box with blue insulator , coil " Will they plug and play or what will i have to do to make them work. Not real sure about the 12v alternator field connection thanks in advance.
 

Last edited by Derrick lane; 10-18-2010 at 01:49 PM. Reason: forgot somthing
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Old 10-18-2010, 03:28 PM
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The only thing it will be missing is the tach lead to the instrument cluster, so if you have a tach now, or ever want a Factory tach in future, it wont work without splicing a wire into it.
 
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Old 10-18-2010, 07:15 PM
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For the harness i got a 79 the plugs aren't rite. one square and one round . You say a harness from a 80-86 351 ho or 460 will be the same as 83 I6 harness. how to tell if 351 is ho or not?
can't seem to upload any pics or forgot how. thanks
 

Last edited by Derrick lane; 10-18-2010 at 07:18 PM. Reason: can't upload pics
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Old 10-18-2010, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Derrick lane
For the harness i got a 79 the plugs aren't rite. one square and one round . You say a harness from a 80-86 351 ho or 460 will be the same as 83 I6 harness. how to tell if 351 is ho or not?
can't seem to upload any pics or forgot how. thanks
Simple. look at the distributer. the wire coming out will have a round-ish plug coming out of it tha looks sort of like the plugs on the module. The other distributer has a long-ish oval plug.
Also, the 351 HO will have a 4bbl carb.
 


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