For those looking for Leveling Kits!!
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10-12-2010, 10:44 PM
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10-16-2010, 09:48 AM
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#15
10-17-2010, 07:18 PM
Few things about the Bilsteins. The Tundra guys are running them over there on their trucks so I'll give you the two cents from what I've gathered over there.
1. They're good for the amount of lift they state. Seems like most people max out at 2.5" lift on the DC and, probably a hair less on the Crewmax (Bilstein says 2.25")
2. They ride better than stock Tundras. Stiffer yet more controlled than the TRD shocks (they're ever stiffer than the non-turd tundras).
3. I went with the Old Man Emu kit for my truck since I have a 112 lb brush guard up front. I wanted it to control the weight better with new shocks AND coils. The Bilsteins will take 180 lbs and sag only .25" according to one of their reps. Knowing that, I might have done it... but I really like the way my OME turned out, so it was good for me.
4. Rancho Quiklifts I've heard don't get stated lift and are a pain to deal with. IMO, money is better spent on Bilsteins even if they were more expensive.
5. They should make lowering shocks like that for the trucks. I believe they do for the Tundra. All they do is relocate the spring perch.
Also, recently they've been shipping out with the wrong spring perch on the 5100s for the Tundras. They've correct the problem by shipping new ones to existing orders. Good customer service, but make sure what you have is right before you spend a good bit of money putting it on. Dig up the correct mm for it and measure it.
Anddd, here's a review from one of the guys that put it on his truck. One of the least flattering comments, but it's contrasting what most people say.
-rockstate
1. They're good for the amount of lift they state. Seems like most people max out at 2.5" lift on the DC and, probably a hair less on the Crewmax (Bilstein says 2.25")
2. They ride better than stock Tundras. Stiffer yet more controlled than the TRD shocks (they're ever stiffer than the non-turd tundras).
3. I went with the Old Man Emu kit for my truck since I have a 112 lb brush guard up front. I wanted it to control the weight better with new shocks AND coils. The Bilsteins will take 180 lbs and sag only .25" according to one of their reps. Knowing that, I might have done it... but I really like the way my OME turned out, so it was good for me.
4. Rancho Quiklifts I've heard don't get stated lift and are a pain to deal with. IMO, money is better spent on Bilsteins even if they were more expensive.
5. They should make lowering shocks like that for the trucks. I believe they do for the Tundra. All they do is relocate the spring perch.
Also, recently they've been shipping out with the wrong spring perch on the 5100s for the Tundras. They've correct the problem by shipping new ones to existing orders. Good customer service, but make sure what you have is right before you spend a good bit of money putting it on. Dig up the correct mm for it and measure it.
Anddd, here's a review from one of the guys that put it on his truck. One of the least flattering comments, but it's contrasting what most people say.
Now I am glad I didnt read your post before I woke up this morning Hollack, or I might not have made the decision I did.
I had the 5100's backed off to the middle position and then aligned (massive + camber, small toe-in). The wheels are now verticle instead of bowed out at the top, +.5" rake, and the ride is way smoother.
Changing the perch position on the 5100's was a trade-off though.
My evaluation:
Top setting - extremely stiff and harsh over individual bumps (like a pot hole), decent over perpendicular objects (like railroad tracks). It felt earily similar to a 2500HD truck. No body sway while turning at any speed. You can feel when you run over a pebble (I have 20's, with 18's I'm sure that condition would be diminished considerably).
Middle setting - good over any type of bumps, very similar to stock, but without as much body roll.
I am very happy with the change with 20's. If I had 18's and added a 1" rear block, I may not have found the top position so irritating. 275/60/20's look great on my truck and they dont rub anywhere, at any angle/compression.
I had the 5100's backed off to the middle position and then aligned (massive + camber, small toe-in). The wheels are now verticle instead of bowed out at the top, +.5" rake, and the ride is way smoother.
Changing the perch position on the 5100's was a trade-off though.
My evaluation:
Top setting - extremely stiff and harsh over individual bumps (like a pot hole), decent over perpendicular objects (like railroad tracks). It felt earily similar to a 2500HD truck. No body sway while turning at any speed. You can feel when you run over a pebble (I have 20's, with 18's I'm sure that condition would be diminished considerably).
Middle setting - good over any type of bumps, very similar to stock, but without as much body roll.
I am very happy with the change with 20's. If I had 18's and added a 1" rear block, I may not have found the top position so irritating. 275/60/20's look great on my truck and they dont rub anywhere, at any angle/compression.
