Well, I finally got around to taking the trim panels off my 99 F150, masking the bottom up and putting 3 coats of Rust Bullet on the hems - inside and out. There were areas that were so far gone that I could have poked my finger through them. This stuff dried rock solid. I was really impressed with the results. I wish I could somehow get a paint brush into the inside of the rocker and do those areas too. I put a coat of Rustoleum white paint over top the RB. It's not a perfect match but much better than rust on white.

Is there a way I can post pictures on this site?

Later,
Mike Gregory

 

Well evidently no so many guis care about rust fighting, no comments here. For me is rust nr 1 enemy of the car. I try to fight rust a couple last years. In my opinion if you have rust trough nothing can help you. For flush rust use cold galvanizing.
<a href="http://s252.photobucket.com/albums/hh23/bbsitum/private/?action=view&current=Picture007.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i252.photobucket.com/albums/hh23/bbsitum/private/Picture007.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

Why haven't I thought about cold galvanizing?

 

On my old pickup Mazda B2200 I had drive shaft felt of from rust (unforgettable experience, I thought competition set time bomb below my truck) and brake line broke from same reason etc.. Hence I started fight it. And any one who know something say - cold galvanizing. Thousands say but nobody listen. Except me, so seems.

 

Actually, I knew about cold galvanizing from work. I even spec it. I simply failed to connect my work knowledge to personal needs..

Also, not many know about cold galvanizing. You need to preach more often.

 

I am not familiar with cold galvanizing. Does it offer a method to repair body panels that are "long gone" and have rust that has eaten through the sheetmetal or is it a coating to prevent rust. Rust bullet did a fantastic job of "candy coating" the bottom of my doors that were definitely "long gone". I could have stuck my finger through quite a long section on both front doors. Now, I can hit it with a screwdriver and it sounds solid. I figure both processes (CG and RB) are good for their intent ... but are they good for the same thing? I would imagine RB could be used as a "rust preventer". Any way, thanks for the replies.


Later,
Mike

 

Cold galvanizing is NOT that good. It is a paint loaded with zinc, and you spray it. Hence the name "cold" galvanizing compared to "hot dip" galvanizing, which is dipping in hot molten zinc.

 

I've used Rust Bullet too, pretty happy with the results. I shot mine with a spraygun. If you call them they'll tell you how to thin.

 

Just my 2 cents, I'm not expert. For opinion of expert always Google "Hotrodders" and then "Rust bullet" or "Por 15" etc. Cold galvanizing over surface rust or clean metal is far better then Rust bullet, Por 15 and Rust encapsulator. All 3 are urethane based paint and all 3 manufacturer make like mystery of that product. No willing to write. Go to Hotrodders web page there are real pros. Very best product for rust fighting is epoxy primer but not willing spend time for it. Just 2 cans of Rustoleum cold galvanizing worth 10$ once per year. All together 3 hours of work per year work for me. I will not preach abut CG to, I have tons of my own stuff to do.
Second not last CG is soft so I need not cover every bolt when I spray, for difference of epoxy or uretane stuff.