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I want to replace my thermostat, but do not have any hose clamps. How much coolant will I need to drain out of the system before pulling the hose off?
I don't understand the question. The hoses already have hose clamps on them. If you'r going to do it without taking them off good luck not screwing up the O ring.
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"05 F-250, 6.0, CC, LB, 3.73, 4 X 2, Lariat, with coolant filter and Bilstein shocks, Magnefine p.s. filter, Ford fuel press. spring upgrade and ScanGauge ll. S. Ca.
"69 Mustang, Mach 1, 428 CJ, Ram Air, Stock
2007 FHLP H.D. Road King
2007 Thor Jazz 5er, 11k dry weight, 31'
173rd Abn. RVN.
I don't understand the question. The hoses already have hose clamps on them. If you'r going to do it without taking them off good luck not screwing up the O ring.
Yeah, I guess I should have worded that better. I want to completely remove the coolant hose between the radiator and t-stat. I was told an alternative method would be to clamp/pinch the hose near the t-stat and only disconnect that end of the hose without draining anything from the system.
I prefer to do this in as clean a manner as possible and minimize coolant spill/loss.
You can get the plastic hose "pinchers" at most auto parts house for a few bucks, would be a good investment. Then if your fast you should not loost much coolant.
__________________ -Scott
SOLD 2-28-11.....
'06 F250 CC/SB PSD. 2'' lift, Bilstein 5100's, Dual stabilizers, 20'' Harley wheels, 35-12.50 MT ATZ's, 08 Mirrors, ARP studs, EGR delete, 4'' MBRP, X3 with custom tunes, Full gauges, scangauge II, Coolant filter, Red top Optimas, DC 185a alt,
I have an 05 and to lift the t-stat housing you have to remove 2 nuts and then a press. switch bracket and then two more nuts. I really think you are doing it the hard way. I will give you the flush method without the t-stat and you can gleen the info you want. It is also easier to remove the air cleaner housing.
1. Drain coolant
2. Add 2 cans of VC-9 and top off with distilled water.
3. Drive 20 to 30 miles, preferably at highway speeds.
4. Drain radiator at petcock first, then pull lower hose. Then remove block plug on driver side. Not necesary to do passenger side.
5. Remove t-stat. To do this, remove air cleaner. Then 2 nuts on t-stat housing. Pry press. sensor bracket off of studs. Tight fit but it will move. Remove 2 more nuts and pull t-stat and housing from studs.
6. Remove t-stat and put housing back on. Re-assemble everything and fill with distilled water.
7. Run at 1200 rpm's for 3 to 5 minutes and drain as described in step 4.
8. Repeat 4 to 5 times or untill water coming at is as clear as water going in.
9. Install t-stat using new O ring. I used vaseline to hold the O ring in place.
10. After everything is re-assembled fill with a 50/50 mix of Ford premium gold or Zerex GO-5.
11. Start engine and check for leaks. This is a lot easier and quicker than it sounds. If you don't remove t-stat then you have to run truck between each flush till t-stat fully opens and then let cool down to work on it.
Highly recommend installing coolant filter kit while cooling syatem is empty. fficeffice" />>>
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"05 F-250, 6.0, CC, LB, 3.73, 4 X 2, Lariat, with coolant filter and Bilstein shocks, Magnefine p.s. filter, Ford fuel press. spring upgrade and ScanGauge ll. S. Ca.
"69 Mustang, Mach 1, 428 CJ, Ram Air, Stock
2007 FHLP H.D. Road King
2007 Thor Jazz 5er, 11k dry weight, 31'
173rd Abn. RVN.
[quote=69cj;9427476]I have an 05 and to lift the t-stat housing you have to remove 2 nuts and then a press. switch bracket and then two more nuts. I really think you are doing it the hard way. I will give you the flush method without the t-stat and you can gleen the info you want. It is also easier to remove the air cleaner housing.
Thanks for the info. I did the flush a few months ago without removing the t-stat. I am removing it now because I believe it is sticking and not allowing enough flow. For 30 bucks I am going to replace it for piece of mind, if nothing else.
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