Need LOTS of help guys! including torque specks...

Hey guys... I have finally broke into a 86 300 I6 and find myself without the torque specs to put it back together... Can someone give me a run down quick???

Head
Flywheel
Mains
Rods
Intake
Exhaust
valve cover (if there is one)
oil pan (if there is one)
Others I'm forgetting?????

I have also heard that I can use a felpro one piece oil pan gasket if I grind some ridges down? where are these ridges? any pics?

This might just be my own ignorance (only 29 y/o) but how the heck do you take the fan clutch and fan off the front of the engine???? LOL...

We are planning on putting the engine in an 83 F-150 for my dad (the red one below) to pull a 16ft fishing boat. Doing the EFI exhaust manifolds, waiting on the offey or clifford intake and carb, as they are a little pricey right now... Are there any other suggestions (like maybe cams) that we should do while the motor is out??? Any and all help is really appreciated with rep points freely given for helpful answers!!! (sorry i am more versed in the EFI 302-351w's so i need the help now...)

 

You need to invest $20 and buy a manual, and read it. No offense meant. Bore, balance, w. new EFI pistons and quality rings. Buy int. on ebay or craigslist. Stay away from Cliffords, unless used on ebay. Either spend the $ and have the head ported, clean bowls and chambers, nice clean exh. runners, and leave the int. a bit rough. 30 degree back cut on the intake valves. Comp Cams 260 and kit. Buy a used Holley or Autolitle 4v carb and rebuild or have it done. Install DuraSpark 2 with EFI plugs and aftermarket coil, side gapped plugs.

You will be AMAZED at the difference, pulling the boat like a walk in the park!!

Don't not port the head. That is the foundation on which all the other mods are based on.

 

You mean "do" port the head...right?

 

What is wrong with a simple stock rebuild and a 352 or 360 cam? The intake and efi manifolds are going to give you big gains and the rest costs alot.

What are you trying to achieve here?

BTW go buy a haynes or chiltons. Tons of info and all the torque specs you will need.

If you wany a set of EFIs and the Y pipe to conect them you can PM me. I got both and would sell them reasonably.

 

well If I had $1000 I would be doing all of that... This motor that I just pulled has 40K from the donor truck since the last rebuild... This is supposed to be a really budget minded truck... things that are super cheap like EFI exhaust manifolds we can do... Guess we'll have to see what porting the head cost...

I have a small block rebuild manual... I figured that I would be getting one here as well (no offence taken)... Is there a 240-300 I6 rebuild manual out there??? any good suggestions on brand/writer?

I was origionally hoping to just take a look inside since it only has 40K on the last rebuild and maybe replace the pieces needed... Or go to better Clevite berings... I'll have to see what the Ol' man can afford but probably not much since grandma just died and we have a funeral this week... we might have the $$$ to port the head depending on what it cost... If that is the most important thing to do at this point... Well evidently that and a cam I guess... External stuff we can tackle later...

Thanks for all the help guys!

 

Buy a 1980-1996 Haynes manual. That will have all the specs you need.

If the compression tests good on the cylinders you caould just add a cam, intake, and EFI manifolds. That should give you a good bump in power without having to rebuild the engine.

 

I already have a haynes... there is only a 75% rule of thumb in it... Doesn't tell you what good compression numbers should be... Like 130psi maybe????

Compression is even at 110 on all cylinders and after taking out a couple of bottom end berings I've found they are all 0.010 undersize... Meaning the crank and rods have all been redone before...

At this point it's a cheap little truck and I think I am going to just put better Clevite or Sealed Power (main and rod) berings back in the bottom and seal it up proper this time. Can't see the reasoning in spending $800 in parts for a truck that will only be used in snowy weather and for 5 mile trips to the lake... Especially when all these items are "upgrades" and non essential for the trucks operation...

Don't get me wrong though... If we run into money in the future I will be all over amping up this little I6.

Back to the question I had before... How do you adjust these 80-86 I6's so you can use a one piece Fel-Pro oil pan gasket??? Anyone Anyone????

 

You just remove the pan and with a grinder remove the raised ring around each bolt hole. Clean pan and install. I'd still dab a bit of silicone in the corners where it starts to curve around crank.

 

i just rebuilt my 300 and got about 500 miles on it so far.

the block is bored .40 over, new cast pistons upgrade is hyperutactics which i dont have. valve job new viton valve stem seals (the good kind) not the cheap black ones you get at parts stores, decked the head and side of the head for the intake. New offy dual port manifold, Hooker long tube header <-- stay away from that, if i could change anything it be that. the performance is great but for how much of a pain it is with install and price forget it. holley 390, complete msd ignition incl msd 6a box, msd blaster 2 coil, msd 8.5mm wires and autolite platinum plugs. the truck runs awesome the power increase is unbelievable from stock. the msd sure does play a role i think. if your going to rebuild it do it right. I dont have my head ported and polished so i cant give any advice there im sure it would add more power. I havent towed or hauled anything yet but im anxious to see what i can do vs before.

 

I have installed 2-3 old school oilpan gaskets that were in 4 pieces and never have I had a leak. CLEAN is the name of the game and let that RTV setup for a minimum of 2 days.

Use a thin butter everywhere, it shouldent leak.

 

If you want a good manual that covers everything you'll need (other than the factory set) find a Mitchell manual on evil bay, MUCH, MUCH, more thorough than the POC Haynes and better than the Chiltons, just my .02!

 

Hmmm... Well I didn't see any raised lips around the bolt holes... I guess the short block the PO bought was a newer block than the 80-86 era... I'll still put a dab of silicone in the corners... I am most likely going with a one-piece though... On the off chance I need to drop the pan again, it will be easier to save and reuse a one-piece.

Haven't been in the garage for the last week... Having my Dad order the new piston and main berings, and a seals kit for the engine. We are going with a pretty much stock engine off the git-go... With the only change being the EFI exhaust manifolds... Once we have all the little problems worked out of the truck we will go back for a new intake, carb and cam.

If I run the EFI manifolds together (2 into 1)... What size single pipe should I run out to the muffler? 2.5in??? 3in????

 

number one cause of oil pan gasket failure, not enough crankcase ventilation.. too much pressure builds up in the block and the oil pan gasket is one of the weakest gaskets on these motors...

 

2.5 is more than ample for your exhaust size.

 

Solution??? breather on the valve cover?