99-03 Turbo Removal & Wicked Wheel Installation
By: Stu Haas
These directions apply to 99-03 Ford F250 Powerstroke 7.3 diesels. Some steps may be a bit different on you PSD depending upon existing truck modifications, intakes, bypasses, etc.
Padded moving blanket (Home Depot)
Penetrating oil and lubricant
Ford pedestal and turbo "O" ring kits – F4TZ-6N653-A, F4TZ-6N653-B
Ford up-pipe V-clamp– (Optional-dependent upon condition after removal)
Ford exhaust V-clamp– (Optional-dependent upon condition after removal)
Brake parts cleaner ? Brakleen spray
Duct tape or Painters tape
3/8" drive ratchet
3/8" drive extension
3/8" drive short swivel
10mm deep socket (3/8" drive-six point)
13mm deep socket (3/8" drive-six point)
10mm half socket swivel (3/8" drive-six point)
7/16" deep socket (3/8 drive-six point)
?? socket (3/8" drive-six point)
?? drive ratchet
?? drive long extension
?? drive short swivel
5/16" deep socket (1/4" drive-six point)
5/16" deep socket (1/4" drive-12 point)
Straight blade screwdriver
5/16" open end wrench
Medium size Vise-Grip
I recommend that you degrease and clean the engine prior to removing the turbo. It will make the removal and re-installation a lot cleaner and easier. Upon completing the degreasing of the engine, spray a good quality and quantity of penetrating oil around the intercooler boots, "Y" pipe clamps, exhaust downpipe clamp, rear up pipe clamp, and all band clamps. Let sit overnight to allow the penetrating oil to work its magic.
Here we go:
1. Disconnect the positive leads on both batteries and tape off the battery posts.
2. I taped off the plastic drip rail just above the turbo to prevent scratching, etc. when removing and installing the turbo.
3. Remove the fuel regulator cover. (? deep socket-6 point)
4. Loosen air intake band clamp and remove the top cover of the intake. (Screwdriver or 5/16" deep socket, ?? drive.)
5. Loosen and remove two the two bolts that hold the CV tube to the bracket. Use a 5/16 socket or open-end wrench. ?
There is a rubber hose that connects the stock tube to the breather on the valve cover.
Use a needlenose or pliers to loosen the breather hose clamp.
(Also a good time to install the Crankcase Ventilation modification.)
6. Before you remove the last section of molded intake boot, be sure to remove the green vacuum sensor that is pressed into the boot itself.
Use needlenose pliers and pull straight out to remove.
Go ahead and loosen the last clamp at the turbo and remove the last intake boot section.
7. Remove the spring clamps that connect the hot side of the intercooler to the "Y" pipe. Remove the blue boot.
(Note, when re-installing the boot, make sure the rib on the inside of the boot matches up with the rib on the intercooler pipe)
Use a 7/16" deep socket, 3/8" drive.
Push the intercooler tube to the side.
Repeat the process on the passenger or ?cool? side intercooler spring clamps and black boot.
8. Loosen the V clamp that attaches the turbo to the "Y" pipe and push over the top of the housing.
Remove the spring clamps that connect the cold side intercooler tube to the "Y" pipe.
9. Loosen the clamp where the cool side intercooler tube connects just below the windshield washer container.
This will allow you to rotate the tube to the left to get access to the turbo.
10. Remove the red pressure line that goes to the turbo wastegate.
Note: You do not have to remove the terminal in the center of the "Y" pipe where the green air sensor and red vacuum terminate.
11.?Set the furniture pad (or equal) on top of the engine compartment.
Make sure this is comfortable or this can cause you some pain the next day.
Be careful not to put too much weight on the plastic radiator filler.
Use the A/C compressor and the alternator as your balancing points.
12. There are three clip connectors, one wire and a MAP line that must be disconnected before the "Y" pipe can be removed.
2) Electrical connectors are the pressure pull type and can be removed with your thumb by pushing the center of the clips and pulling.
The turbo pedestal has 1) connector which has a wire clip that has to be unsnapped before it can be removed.
If you have not already removed the air intake heater sensor and plugged it, then you must disconnect this wire prior to removing the "Y" pipe. (Left side on "Y" pipe.
Now, locate the MAP pressure line, rubber line that terminates at the base of the "Y" pipe. Relieve pressure on the clamp with pliers and pull line free form pipe.
13. You're ready to pull the "Y" pipe.
Pull up and wiggle side to side and it should pop right out.
You may have to use a flat screwdriver to work between the rubber boots and "Y" pipe.
Disconnect you boost gauge line from the "T" connector or tube if equipped.
Plug the intercooler ports with shop rags.
14.??Y? pipe removed.
15. This is what the turbo looks like with the "Y" pipe and intake plumbing removed.
Now, use a 7/16" deep socket to remove the exhaust downpipe "V" band clamp and the "V" clamp at the rear of the turbo, up pipe connection.
Try not to damage, twist or bend these clamps. These will be toughest to remove on older, high mileage PSD's.
Try penetrating oil again and again. If this doesn't work, use a screwdriver to wedge between the pipe and the band and walk it around the inside of the clamp and pipe.
Replace these clamps if they are damaged during the removal.
On the left side of the turbo, under the exhaust valve is an actuator arm that extends form the pedestal to the EBPV. There is a small clip that has to be removed and the arm disconnected from the valve. Use a needlenose pliers to grab the clip and push to the drivers side of the truck to disengage. It should come off, hold onto it tight, it's a special clip found only at your Ford dealer.
16.?Once the clamps are removed, locate the two bolts on top of the turbo where the intake meets the exhaust.
Remove these two bolts with a 13mm deep socket, 3/8" drive.
Lift the turbo housing straight up (weighs 31 lbs.) and rotate the turbo under the drip rail and above the fuel filter housing.
This may take a few tries and will come out fairly easily if you take your time. Don?t lose your cool.
This picture is the turbo pedestal.
Your supply and return "O"rings go here.
Use the Brakleen here to clean the valve covers and galley area of the engine.
17. Skip this portion unless you plan on replacing the lower pedestal "O" rings.
There are 4) 10mm mounting bolts securing the pedestal to the block. Remove these bolts and lift the pedestal straight up, off the guide pin.
Remove and replace these lower "O" rings.
18. Set the turbo on a clean bench.
Remove the small "C" clip that holds the wastegate arm to the wastegate valve connector on the EBPV assembly.
19. Set the turbo on the EBPV end and locate the 5) 5/16" 12 point bolts that secures the intake housing.
Loosen and remove these bolts and tap the cover to loosen if necessary.
Be sure not to damage the large cover "O" ring when removing or re-installing the cover.
20. Here?s your compressor wheel. You will need a 16mm or 7/16? deep socket to remove the wheel.
21. Remove the 7) 5/16" 12 point bolts that secure the EBPV to the turbo housing.
22.?This is the opposite end of your turbo shaft.
As you can see on this shaft, it is mostly round and tapered and there is no head to grab with a wrench, socket or Vise.
23. Secure and lock the Vice Grip to the shaft.
BE SURE THAT THE JAWS DO NOT COME IN CONTACT WITH THE BLADES!!
24. Grab and hold the end of the Vise-Grip and loosen the compressor wheel by turning the ratchet counter clockwise as if removing any normal bolt.
The compressor wheel will loosen and unthread from the shaft.
Install the new Wicked Wheel and snug tight. Do not overtighten as the wheel self tightens in normal rotation.
Spin the shaft to ensure the wheel has clearance.
Re-install the compressor and EBPV covers.
25.?These are the Ford "O" rings for the turbo pedestal. These "O" rings are the same for the upper and lower ports.
I recommend removing the pedestal and replacing them while you have the turbo out.
This is the primary leak point on PSD's.
When these rings go bad, oil will run down the engine galley, down to the tranny inspection plate and leak around the cover and weep hole.
(Note: Now is also a good time to gut the EBPV while the turbo is out.
Request the instruction sheet for the EBPV gutting).
26. Prior to re-installation and clamping of the exhaust down pipe and up pipe "V" clamps, apply a coat of Anti-Seize Copper to make it easier to disassemble if you ever have too again.
27.?Remove the old pedestal "O" rings.
Apply Vaseline to the new "O" rings to hold them in place. Set them into the feed and return ports.
Place the up pipe "V" clamp onto the up pipe and spread around the pipe as not to inhibit the placement of the turbo.
Set the turbo onto the pedestal making sure not to snag the "O" rings when placing it on the pedestal. Start the 2) top 13mm bolts into the pedestal and thread down by hand until snug, do not tighten.
Line up the "V" clamp over the turbo and up pipe. Snug tighten.
Now tighten the turbo down.
Line up and connect the exhaust "V" clamp and tighten.
In some cases, you may have to loosen the down pipe at the first exhaust connection to keep the exhaust pipe from preventing the turbo to align properly.
Reverse the removal process.
Re-install everything, tighten?. start up and check for exhaust and oil leaks.