After removing the spindles and axles remove the pinion yoke nut.  If you are lucky it will come off with the impact gun and you don't have to worry about preventing the yoke from spinning.  Next remove the yoke with a puller.  After remove the cover and draining the fluid, mark the bearing caps for left and right (you can use a punch),and note which direction the arrows on the caps face.  The bearing caps must be installed in the same side and direction as they came out.  The caps bore is matched to the bore in the axle housing.  After removing the bearing caps remove the diff carrier.  You'll probably need pry bars, and a friend makes it a lot easier.  However as I heard over and over again from Steve, you can do it by yourself. Remove the bearings and note the thickness of the shims on each side  

Remove the pinion by hitting it with a hammer with block of wood, if the gears are to be reused place the nut back on the pinion before hitting it.  Have someone ready to catch the pinion as it is knocked loose.  Note the thickness of the pinion shims using a set of good vernier calipers.  Remove the inner and outer bearing races, old bearings make a good driver, and/or a socket from the 3/4" socket set. Next remove the old inner axle seals first noting their position, you'll need a really long bar with the correct size driver to knock out the seals.  We used another Steve Shaw patented technique, he attached several 3/4" extensions together to form the bar, then a 3/4" drive socket of approximately the same diameter as the seals to use as the driver, then drove the seals out by hitting the end of the extensions.  We actually didn't remove the seals until after we cleaned the diff, but it is better to do it before.  

Next clean the diff, a good quality pressure washer and degreaser helps out here.  You must remove all grit from the housing and inside the axle to make sure you don't get any inside when reassembling.  You can use the plug in kind of pressure washer but you'll have to put the nozzle right up close to be effective.  A 5 hp gas, 2300 psi, 3 gpm will do the job nicely.  

Make sure to clean out the axle tubes as well, since you don't want to pick up any grit when installing the axle shafts.  

With the diff clean blow it dry with compressed air.  Install the new axle seals, using sealant between the axle housing and the seal.  Again you'll need the long bar and driver, a 3/4" socket set helps here.  When installing the front axle seals you should make sure they are installed to a depth that makes them run on a good portion of the axle shaft, this may or may not be the same depth as the originals.  If the shaft had a bad groove where they used to run, shifting them to a different location might be a good idea. 

Install the new ring gear on the diff carrier, in this case it is also the Detroit locker.  To tighten the bolts have one person hold a pry bar between two bolts and the other tighten the bolts with a torque wrench.  Again this can be done by one person as Steve tells me.  I don't believe it and think that his wife actually helped more than he admits when he did his.  

According to the Steve the new Detroit Soft Locker is designed to smooth out the locking and unlocking of the axles.  A side effect of this is more torque is required to unlock them which can cause understeer on extremely slippery surfaces (sheer ice).  Which makes driving in winter in 2wd (4wd is fine) with your hubs locked risky, since on slippery roads there is not enough torque transmitted to the locker to disengage.  However a simple modification to the Detroit is to remove the soft locker components, which reduces the amount of force necessary to disengage the locker.  This has NO affect on off road performance and no increase in noise for typical front wheel axle applications.  If you live in the south you don't have to worry about this modification.  

A long threaded rod is inserted through the locker, then nuts and washers are used to hold the inner spring compressed while the top is removed.  After the top is removed loosen the nut on the rod to uncompress the spring and gain access to the thrust washers and thrust blocks.  
  
Note this procedure can be done prior to installing the ring gear.  

After removing washers assembly is reverse.  Make sure to use locktite on the locker bolts.  Steve talked this modification over with the Tractech engineers and they agreed with him that this is an acceptable (required for winter drivers) modification.  However you should contact Tractech yourself for complete instructions.  

Now it is time to setup the gears.  This is a fairly involved process and takes the bulk of the time when rebuilding an axle.  I wont go into the details, only provide some notes on things that make it easier.  

The first thing to do is throw away the crappy gear marking grease that came with the new gears.  It is useless horrible stuff.  Now, swallowing all your Ford pride, go to the parts desk at a GM dealer and buy GM Part  #1052351 Compound 08800.  This is excellent gear marking compound, supposedly even used by Ford mechanics because it is so much better than any of the others.  It is a bright yellow paste.  You can clearly see your gear pattern when using the GM compound.  One tube is $7 and will last you 1000 diffs.  

The carrier bearings are a force fit so you don't want to use  your new bearings while setting up the backlash because you'll have to repeatedly hammer on-pull off the bearings for each shim change.  To make the job easier take the old carrier bearings and grind the inside race enough so that they can be slipped on and off the carrier (Detroit locker) without requiring a puller to remove.  

The new pinion will have a + or - number scribed on it.  This is the amount in thousandths of an inch that the gear is off from the nominal checking distance (the distance from the center line of the ring gear to bottom of the pinion gear).  Use this number, along with the number on the original gear and the original shim thickness to determine the starting point for the pinion depth shim thickness.  For example if your original pinion shims measured (in total) .026" and the original pinion gear had a +1 marked on it and the new pinion gear had a +2 marked on it you would add .001" to the original pinion shim depth for a starting point of .027".  You'll have to mix and match the shims to come up with the desired thickness, and may even need to reuse some of the old shims to get the right thickness.  As a starting point use the same pre load shim thickness as the original and test the pre load with these shims prior to setting up backlash.  Ours tested out OK, but required tweaking after backlash was set.  Install the pinion gear using the OLD pinion nut for now, and torque to spec.   

Get note pad and a pen and setup a chart to keep track of the attempts, this will help guide you as to what to do next and make sure you don't end up backtracking.  I've include the chart we ended up with when doing the Dana 60 (see below).  Your gears should come with instructions which will help explain the process in more detail.  

Now for some things that may not be covered in the instructions and how to work around them.  When you place the carrier into the axle and place the bearing caps on the caps should fit snug, not tight but definitely not loose.  Loose caps will mean that your bearings will spin.  My luck when doing the rear diff one of the caps was loose, and proving that I had more 'luck' both bearing caps in the front were loose.  Unfortunately one of the bearing races had been spinning and was loose in the bearing cap.  In order to maintain the critical tolerances within the diff, the cap should hold the race just tight.  So off to the table sander...  
  
You have two choices if your bearing caps are loose, bring it to a professional machine shop to have the caps fixed up or follow the Steve Shaw patented technique for fixing loose bearing caps.  WARNING use this technique at your own risk. Tools needed: 16 oz hammer, table top sander.  Skills, knowing when to stop sanding.  A combination of sanding and quick sharp hits with the hammer will tighten up the bearing caps to hold the bearings in place.  Start by hitting the cap by laying it on one edge and hitting the other so as to compress the cap.  Test fit it between each hit until it fits snug.  Its a judgment call what 'snug' is.  You should be able to get it on with just your hands and not need to hammer it on.  Now it may fit snug at the bottom but not at the top, no amount of hammering will fix this and its time to sand.  Sand both flat surfaces evenly at the same time on the sander.  Only do small amounts of sanding in-between test fittings.  Stop when it fits snugly.  

Now your saying "Greg I tried this but sanded too much".  Well that's what I did when I made the mistake of thinking that I knew what I was doing and didn't wait for Steve to verify my work.  I had sanded too much and now the cap would hit the top of the bearing before seating on the axle housing.  Doh!  Fear of expensive machining to correct the problem run through my head.  Steve suggests a shim, but what do we make it out of?  It's 3:00 AM and there isn't a machine shop open for miles.  Steve figured a .010" shim on each side ( between the cap and axle housing) would correct my over sanding.  But I didn't have anything .010" around, but I did have a sheet of aluminum that was .017" thick.  So I cut up one shim and put it on one side, it worked!  You really don't want to get into this situation.  To make the hole in the shim I first drilled through the sheet of aluminum (before cutting out the shape of the shim).  To drill through thin metal place the metal in-between two blocks of wood (2x4) and drill through the wood then the metal.  

OK, so now you have your starting point for pinion shims, pre load shims, and have your bearing caps fitting snug.  Now its time to get the backlash.  Setup the dial indicator and rock the ring gear back and forth and note the amount the gauge changes, this is your backlash.  If you need to correct the backlash you'll have to remove the carrier, alter the shims and then install and test again.  Your gears should have come with instructions which will explain how much of a shim change is required for a desired backlash change.  We had to do this about 4 times to get the backlash right, see table.  Once the backlash is within spec (for my Precision Gear gears it was .008" to .010") apply the gear marking compound to about 10-12 teeth of the ring gear and do a gear pattern test.  Apply resistance to the pinion while rotating the ring gear, make sure to run both ways.  To get your forward pattern and reverse pattern, the forward pattern is the most critical since you'll be doing most of driving this way :).  Depending on the pattern you may need to alter the pinion depth shims, or the carrier bearing shims, use the chart that came with the gears to decide what changes are necessary in order to obtain a good pattern.  Make sure to record all changes.  A good pattern is a necessity, or you'll wear out your gears in a very short time.  So don't get impatient.  

Once you have proper backlash and a good pattern its time to check the pinion pre load.  Remove the carrier once more, remove the pinion, install the new pinion seal, install the pinion and carrier again.   

Testing Pre load  
With the bearing caps torqued on rotate the axle housing so that the pinion is parallel to the ground.  Pinion pre load is measured in inch pounds, not foot pounds.  So you either need to purchase an expensive tool to measure the pre load or use another Steve Shaw patented technique.  Place a bar (about 1 foot long) through the two ubolts that would normally hold on the u joint.  Now place a weight (5 or 2.5 pound) on the bar, with the bar perpendicular to the pinion, move the weight out from the pinion until the bar rotates the pinion.  Note the distance from the center of the pinion to the point on the bar where the pinion started to rotate.  Now the pre load will be the distance (length) in inches times the force (pounds) of the weight (T=LxF).  So if using a 5 pound weight and the distance was 5 inches the pre load will be 25 inch pounds.  If more pre load is required you have to remove the carrier, remove the pinion and add more pre load shims.  We had to do this 3 times, which is why you may wish to use the old nut the first few times when testing pre load, since ideally you do not want to back off the new nut once it has been tightened.  Note the Ford rear end uses a crush sleeve instead of pre load shims. 

Your done!  Put the cover on, put it under the truck, add the fluid and drive.  

Break In Procedure  
When I did my diffs both were done at the same time, so I had two sets of gears to break in.  First I drove in 2wd to break in the rear, for 15 min at 60-100 kph with the front hubs UNlocked.  Came home, disconnected the rear drive shaft, let the rear diff cool (about 3 hours or so) then put it in 4wd high and did the same 15 min drive with the front hubs locked (or I wouldn't be going very far).  It drives a bit funny on drive pavement like this so be prepared.  This is being a bit anal but ensures proper break-in.  Come home reconnect the driveshaft and let the front diff cool before driving.  Check the fluid levels in both diffs and top up as necessary.  After this you can drive 'normal' for 200 miles, well as Steve says how a normal person would drive a normal car.  So that means no hard acceleration, no fish tails around corners, no off roading.  During this part of the break in, shift into 4wd high with front hubs UNlocked every now and then.  When out of 4wd high lock the hubs.  This will drive the front gears ensuring they get broken in before going off road.  Change the diff fluid after 500 miles or so.  You'll most likely see some very small metal bits.  This is probably from the locker.  If you see large bits you should completely remove the cover and investigate.  

OK now your done.  

Only other problem we ran into was with a king pin.  At around 1:00 AM one night Steve decided it would be a good idea to check the condition of the king pin bushings and bearings.  While attempting to remove the lower king pin cover a bolt snapped.  I don't have a torch, so that added another day to the job to take the knuckle with broken bolt into a muffler shop to have them use a torch get the bolt out.  But that wasn't the hard part.  After getting the knuckle off we found that the upper king pin it self was too rusty to keep using.  To remove the upper king pin a special hex male socket must be used, its 7/8 but  you'll need a 3/4 drive one.  The king pin is torqued on with extreme force, 600-700 ft-lb.  To get it off I had an 8 foot pipe on the socket wrench, pushed as hard as I could, loud snap, and it broke loose.  You must install it with about the same amount of torque.  Fun