WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A CLASSIC FORD TRUCK

PART I

Well, you decided that you want an old Ford truck to "fix up", eh ? But, you've never done anything like this before. You know what you want as a final product, but the 'in-between' is a little fuzzy. Is that where you are ?????

You've gotten to the point in your life where you have some discretionary spending money and the kids are gone so there is room in the driveway and the wife is at least somewhat agreeable to you taking on another project. You've been watching the want-ads and the Car Trader for a likely candidate and you've seen a few possibilities. Now, if you only knew what to look for when you go look at them. Hopefully this epistle will give you some insight into what you need to think about before you put down your money. The first thing you'll find here is this: What you buy should depend on what you want to do with it. Let me explain..

You'll find old trucks in all conditions. They will run the gambit between show trucks and scrap piles. One of the first things I'll offer here (with a caveat) is no matter which way you want to take your truck, buy the best truck you can find not the best you can afford the best you can find money spent up front is cheaper than money spend down the road repairing/replacing missing parts or work done badly by the previous owner. I cannot stress this enough. Now, the caveat: if you're rodding the truck, you're only interested in certain parts and pieces, so if the engine is dead, it doesn't matter since you're probably gonna replace it anyway. You'll soon learn that exceptions outnumber rules 10 to 1 in this hobby.

Classification of vehicles and amount of involvement.

The Trucks at the upper range of your budget (and far beyond) are meticulously restored or customized, they have trophies and picture books to show every step. Their owners can quote from memory where every piece and part were purchased and the price (including shipping).These trucks might need some fresh paint or at least a change in color to suit you. If you only want the ride and not the journey to build it, this is where you need to look. (no dirt under your nails)

Some trucks will be previously restored/rebuilt vehicles that appear to be road worthy and ready to go. Most will be, but use caution at this point. Their definition of "road worthy" and yours may be significantly different. That is if you're particular about brakes that slowly fade to the floor and the bungee cord holding the door closed. At this level, some amount of involvement, sweat, blood, cash outlay and frustration enter into the fun/expenditure equation.

Some have been sitting in a field for years, they might have a barn leaning against them or maybe even with a 5" sweet gum tree growing up through the engine compartment or the bed. The previous owner (hereinafter referred to as the P.O.) will smile, pat on the fender and assure you it was running when it was parked saying, "All she needs is some fresh gas and a ba-tree." At this point you might be considered a masochist and enjoy pain, suffering and financial ruin. But, it can also be the most rewarding crusade of all when it is complete, besides, you didn't need that 401-K anyway.

If at this point, if you find that you haven't *actually* done your homework and studied the condition/price range now is the time to do it. I suggest looking at the ads, search the internet and the old car trader magazines. Attend a few car/truck shows and talk to owners. Most times you won't see a for sale sign on the windshield but subtly placed on a side or back window on a business card or neatly lettered with a phone number on the glass. Don't be shocked if you see some that are more than your annual salary. You can buy a complete car for what some truck builders spend on a paint job. The more you know, the better equipped you are to invest in one of these beauties.

So let's jump ahead a bit and assume you've done your homework and are a wary buyer ready to find your 'deal'. Remember the first rule from above:

What you buy should depend on what you want to do with it

Later in the article I will tell you about 'paths' and how your choice of vehicle types will affect those paths.. i.e. restoration vs. rodding. 

If your taste runs toward a restoration, that is, a truck that looks like it just rolled off Henry's line you want to find a vehicle that is as complete as possible or at the very least has all the repairable parts there. A complete truck with engine and drive train, interior parts and sheet metal that can be repaired or replaced is the best place to start. Anything less is just going to cost you more money later on. Maybe lots more. Some of the year classes had particular parts, emblems, grills, interior trim parts that are not reproduced now-a-days and good pieces are extremely hard to find. If you have to have that model, make sure it's as complete as possible.

If you plan on building a street rod type vehicle you can consider a vehicle without engine/transmission and even the rear end, although moving it will be more difficult without the rear end. Since you'll probably be installing a different engine and drive train anyway, the original stuff is something you'll have to do away with and there is a limited market for used engines/transmissions. So in this case, a good frame and all the sheet metal will be the basis for your choice.

Now ?? can you see the first fork in your road ?? More on that later.

DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOU'RE LOOKING AT ?

For your next homework assignment, read this chapter, there may be a pop quiz later.

You've found an ad in the Wednesday morning classifieds for a '54 F-100 in original condition with what you think 'might' be an attractive price based on the telephone description given by the seller. (hereinafter referred to as The #%&$%@ P.O.) You tell the seller that you are very interested, hoping he won't sell it before you get there and make an appointment for Saturday morning to check it out.  When you arrive you see it sitting outside the barn. The heavy drag marks from inside the barn give you your first clue.. the brakes are locked up so this truck ain't been driven in awhile.

So here's a partial list of things to look at and listen to (if you can) while you're walking around and kicking those freshly inflated tires that show the signs of sitting flat for years.

RUST

These old trucks are notorious for holding water in certain places. Water retention in trucks (just like ladies) is a bad thing. Check the cab corners, all four. Check the door bottoms, inside and out. Look at the place where the running boards attach to the fenders, front and back. Look at the drip rail around the windshield.. and look for rust thru where the roof joins this area. Inside the doors look where the cab is bolted to the front cab mounts, these are really fun to replace. Look at the seam at the front of the hood, and feel the inside of this seam, if you can get the hood open. One more place to look is above the headlights in the fenders. If there are any floor mats in the truck, or carpet, pull it back if you can and look at the floorboards, or what is left of them. Patch panels for these areas are available at a reasonable cost, but the cost of installing them can be considerable if you're not proficient in welding and body work.

A strong flashlight and a magnet will help you detect damage in hidden areas and some bad/thick bondo applications. Tap around on the truck with your knuckles till you hear a dull thick sound, that's probably filler put in way too thick.  Not necessarily a reason to reject the truck, but make a mental note when you tally up your offer.

PREVIOUS MODIFICATIONS

Check over the front suspension carefully. If it's original, you'll probably be safe, unless there has been some spring 'alteration' i.e. heating with a torch to lower the truck. Look for broken, bent or missing parts. You should also be wary of any conversions to ifs from another vehicle. Ask lots of questions about who did it, when, where, professional or homebuilt. If it's home done ask about how it was done, measurements taken, alignment problems, steering problems, tire wear, etc. If the installation looks less than professional.. walk on by. Front suspension alterations, grafts, re-engineerings need to be done by someone with some knowledge of how those things work. You want good welds with proper penetration and gusseting. Correct steering connections and steering geometry are a must. Just because it fit under the fenders doesn't mean it will work. Consider driving with your family down the freeway at 65 mph+ with a questionable front suspension before you decide it's what you want.

Engine swaps are pretty common, look at the engine mounts and see if they are an add-on aftermarket component or some cobbled up angle iron affair that might drop the block on the way home, check the welding for cracks and bending.

The transmission should also be checked for support. In the truck I bought, the transmission was being supported by a torch cut piece of bed rail that was held to the frame by twisted wire. While you're looking there look back at the rear end for signs of changes or abuse or rust through in the frame rails and spring perches. Look for broken springs and hangers.

Look at the backing plates on the brakes for signs of leaking brake fluid, kinked or missing brake lines. The presence of e-brake cables, clevises and such is a good sign, not that they work but that the pieces are there.

If the truck is running, have a seat behind the wheel and turn it over. Listen for abnormal starter sounds. Is the starter dragging or turning over slowly. This could just be a weak battery or signs of other problems. When the engine starts, let it idle, stick your head under the hood and listen. Do you hear any knocking or sounds like metal contacting metal. A little ticking in the valves is normal on start up but should disappear after a minute or so. Look for signs of oil or fluid leaks around the valve covers, heads, thermostat housing. If all sounds and looks good, throttle it up a little and listen more. Did the engine run up to speed ok or was there hesitation or stumbling? If any of these tests return a negative, it not necessarily a reason to reject the purchase, missing or stumbling could be signs of inactivity..the truck has just been sitting too long. Metal on metal sounds are another matter. Here's another exception.. if you're going to rod the truck and replace the engine, the noises don't matter.

If you feel confident about the truck, take her for a spin, pay attention to things like brakes holding firm on stops, clutch slipping, steering binding on turns, gears meshing properly when shifting. Listen to unusual sounds and feel for vibrations in the drive train. You've driven enough vehicles to know when something is wrong. But, temper your findings with the fact that old trucks are well, old trucks, and even when new didn't drive or handle like today's vehicles. It won't be as quiet or smooth as your Lexus.

WIRING AND ELECTRICAL

Old trucks are notorious for having 'alterations' made to the wiring. When something stopped working or the wiring released it's smoke, repairs are frequently made with whatever is handy to get the truck back on the road. Routing and connections are put in the category of "I'll fix that when I get home, and are rarely completed later." I've seen 12 gauge solid copper house wiring used, plastic coated stranded clothesline wire.. wire nuts used for connections. Any additional length of wire was simply coiled or wadded up and stuffed under the dash. Firewall grommets were long ago poked out with a screwdriver and the telltale signs of arcing are evident and melted insulation has dripped down the engine side of the firewall. Sometimes things were just cut loose and left hanging. The original wire is over 50 years old.. the rubber insulation has hardened and broken away and the cloth cover has been a snack for rodents. So don't be surprised at anything you see under the dash, including wasp nest and rat droppings.

The old 6 volt systems were at best less than dependable. On a cold day you were considered fortunate if your truck would crank at all. Many adventuresome owners converted the system to 12 volts with the addition of an alternator and 12 volt pieces and parts. Again this is a place to question the conversion. If the truck is in running condition or at least has a charged battery, check the electrical devices, headlights work?, tail lights, heater, gauges even come up off the peg ??? Wiper motor move the blades at all (assuming an electrical wiper system instead of vacuum)?. Try the horn and the brake lights.

CAB AND INTERIOR

Climb up in the cab and look around. What is the condition of the steering wheel? most of the covering gone ?? Check all the windows, first to see if they are there, then to see if they work. Check the door handles and locks. Pull on the e-brake handle to see if it's frozen or broken. Are the seats original and do the slides work? Try the cowl vent. Some or all of these might be just rusted stuck and a little PB Blaster will free them up. Check for trim pieces, glove compartment door and all the knobs and such. Has the dash been hacked up to add a 8-track player. Are all the knobs and switches and cables and badges in place, some may be hard to find if you're going back to restored condition.

MISC

If you can get the hood up (if it will stay up) if it won't there will be a broom stick laying inside somewhere.) stick your head in and take an accounting, is anything missing ?? Starter, carb, manifolds ??? Lots of times parts are robbed from one vehicle to get another running again. Take off the radiator cap and look for any signs of plugged tubes, clogging or evidence of stop leak. If it has water in it do you see any signs of anti-freeze ?? If not you might want to give the freeze plugs (block expansion plugs) a closer look and check the block for cracks. Look the radiator over for any signs of leaks or corrosion. Many times these old trucks have been sitting for years and the evidence isn't really apparent, but look for telltale signs of green on the fins, corrosion from the leaks..but if it's a 'runnin' truck they should show. Look at hoses and belts, check the water pump for leaks. 

Pull the dipstick and look at the oil, if it's milky it's a sign of water in the oil.. if it's thick and grungy, It's been a long time since an oil change. 

Of course check tires to see if they will at least hold air. If it's not a working truck, you're gonna have to trailer it home or have a roll back drag it up and bring it to you. Rolling stock is easier to handle than something dead that must be drug up on the trailer/truck.

One last thing to ask the P.O. "Are there any other parts for the truck?" Many times P.O.s will have an extra carb or side window that was purchased and never installed. It never hurts to ask. It might get you an opportunity to tour the barn and find some other gems that could be available for sale. I found an old safe one time when looking for tractor wheels. It was mine for the taking.

If you can do all this and feel reasonably confident about your inspection and the answers from the P.O. Start dealing. Some folks will haggle and some won't. If the asking price is way too steep make a reasonable offer and wait for a counter, If he won't budge and you won't pay, walk away. Thank him for his time and drive off. Wait a week and if the ad is still there or you know the truck hasn't sold, give him a call and ask if he'll reconsider your offer. Many times people have trucks that someone in the family has told them are worth a fortune when in reality it's just another old truck in bad condition. After a week of no offers he might be more agreeable to considering your offer. The worst thing he can say is no. Lot's of guys will haggle for a deal for months or even years before the owner will let it go. Keep trying if you want the truck.

Another important thing you need to affirm is a clear title. Although most vehicles were not registered in the 50s, in today's world they are and in some cases inspections by the state are required. Insurance companies won't insure anything that isn't roadworthy (in their opinion, not yours). Ask for the most current tag receipt or registration, check the vin # against what you find on the registration plate to see if they match. Sometimes you'll find the plate on the glove box door or in the door sill or firewall, but it's somewhere. If there is no registration you're going to have to come up with some way to register the truck and get a tag and insurance, that's a BIG obstacle if you have to back into it and could be a deal breaker in some states. If the truck has a tag no matter how old, there should be registration at the court house. It might be a good idea to put down some earnest money to get the owner to hold the truck till you can assure clear title and registration. It's not beyond imagination to find a barn stored truck that was stolen back from a garage that had a lien on it for unpaid work. If that shop filed that lien it will be on record and if you buy the truck you inherit the lien with it, lucky you. 

Good hunting!

Continue to Part 2.