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Articles .: Ford F-Series 1953 - 1979 .: 53-79 F-Series Engine, Intake, & Exhaust .: (F100) DUI Ignition Installation In A Ford 351W V8

(F100) DUI Ignition Installation In A Ford 351W V8  


By Jimmy Chambers

This is the installation of a new DUI ignition system in to a 351W in my 63 F100. It is currently running a Duraspark II system from the donor truck that I took the engine and tranny from, which was a 1984 F250.

That main reason that I wanted to install the DUI set-up was to clean up the engine compartment by eliminating the external coil, ignition module, and extra wiring.


I have also converted this truck over from a generator to an alternator, so constant voltage is not an issue anymore.

The first thing I did was to check the initial timing. It was at 12 BTDC. I then removed the cap and plug wires together so that I would know where #1 was and could follow them around when wiring up the new unit. Next, I marked where the rotor was pointing, I then removed the rotor, cap adapter and distributor hold-down. I then slowly pulled up the distributor paying attention to which way the shaft turned as it cam off of the cam gear so that I would know where to point the rotor on the DUI unit when installing it into the block.

Next, I removed the cap from the DUI unit and lined up the rotor to point to where the old one did as it came out of the block. I positioned the vacuum advance so that I had room to turn the distributor both ways to adjust the timing later on. I then inserted the DUI into the engine and like on many Ford engines, it didn't drop onto the oil pump shaft, so I bumped the starter and it dropped on in. I then installed the hold-down clamp and bolt finger tight.

I then reinstalled the cap and plugged in the module to cap plug.

I then ran a 12 gauge wire from the ignition wire at the firewall I had 12v there so I didn't have to bypass the factory resistor wiring. The DUI unit requires 12V to 14V for optimum output.

Next it was time to install my new Live Wire set of plug wires. These are a really nice spiral wound plug wire with a nice high temp shielding over the wires. They come preassembled and are numbers for each cylinder. I opted for blue to match the truck and engine.

When installing the plug wires, be sure to apply the supplied dielectric grease to both boots on each wire. This will help seal them from moisture and allow them to be removed from the plugs and cap much easier if they need to be removed for a plug or cap change. After installing the wires, I used the really nice billet aluminum separators to keep them organized neatly. These too were from Performance Distributors.

It was now time to fire it up, so I blocked off the vacuum advance hose and cranked her up. I then readjusted the timing to 12 degrees BTDC just like the Duraspark unit was. This is what the instructions say to set it at.

NOTE: Each DUI distributor has the advance curve custom set for your application for things such as vehicle weight, camshaft, octane, compression, etc. This is done and ready to drop in when you receive it. Mine is set to 22 degrees of total advance so with the 12 degrees initial advance, I have a total of 32 degrees.

After setting the timing to 12 degrees, I tightened the hold-down and rechecked to verify that it was still at 12. It was so I hooked up the vacuum line to the advance. I used ported vacuum for my application.

The first thing that I noticed is that it was idling almost 500rpm higher with the timing set the same as the old unit. It is obviously firing much stronger from the increased dwell time in the module and hotter coil. So I turned the idle down to where it was before. The throttle response is much crisper and it revs quicker than before.

I must say that I am quite impressed with this system. The added power is quite noticeable and the engine compartment is much cleaner without all of the Duraspark wiring, coil and module. It is a good looking unit with obvious performance benefits. I would recommend this system to anyone wanting a better performing, easy to install ignition system.

The instructions say that a 13" air cleaner must be used to clear the cap, but the 14" that I have on there right now is not a drop base and I have a 1" spacer under it. After the bodywork and painting is done, I will reinstall my drop base unit that uses a 5" element to see if it will clear with the spacer.


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