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Articles .: Ford Bronco .: Bronco Interior .: Bronco: Building Your Own Dash and Above Dash Instrument Housing

Bronco: Building Your Own Dash and Above Dash Instrument Housing


By Mike Boyd
 
 
A nice way to improve the utility and appearance of your vehicle is by removing the old dash and adding a new customized dash made of T-6 billet.  Billet is tempered aluminum that can be polished to look like chrome, or brushed to look like stainless steel.  Billet is strong, won't rust, and is readily available through metal surplus stores and steel supply houses.
 
I removed a billet dash that was 1/16" thick that had been installed by a previous owner.  I bought 1/8" billet to replace the thinner piece for improved strength.  The instruments had to be relocated to be seen more readily and old switches were replaced with illuminated rocker switches that took up far less room and were very easy to locate while driving.


 
I removed the entire original dash with a Sawzall.  I left a one inch border to act as a frame for the new billet dash.  Removing the '71 dash enabled me to modify the dash later without cutting through the steel original dash.  When sawing out the old dash, I used masking tape as a guide to make the cut more precise and consistent.  A one inch hole saw was used on the upper right hand corner of the old dash and another one inch hole saw cut in the lower left hand corner.  From this point I was able to run masking tape around the dash to create a border for the face plate.  A Sawzall high speed steel blade was used for this cutout.
 
After the outline of the dash is cut from billet, polish the dash to the desired luster using a buffer.  If you attempt to cutout the dash first, you will add a lot of extra work and may damage the polished area in the process.  Now mask off the entire dash to protect it from damage and to allow you to diagram and make the measurements necessary for your applications such as switches, CB, and stereo.  You will have to take into account items that will be behind the dash.  This will avoid installation problems later.  The masking tape will protect your polished surface from cutting tools and jigsaws.  Its best to use COARSE CUTTING blades because the finer blades will load up with billet shavings very quickly.
 
I used stainless allen button head bolts(1/4" coarse, 1/2" long)to mount the dash to the frame.  These bolts were spaced out every five inches and aligned with the corresponding upper and lower bolts to improve the symmetric appearance of the finished product.  Use holesaw cutters for round instruments.  The early photos of the old dash will show you how rough it will be to attempt this with any other tool.
 
Patience and caution should give you a fine finished product that will make your vehicle easier to drive and dramatically improve the appearance of your interior.



Above Dash Instrument Housing

Watching your trail through the windshield and reading your instruments can be extremely dangerous. Most racers are placing their gauges where they can see them while operating their vehicles under demanding conditions when the driver cannot take their eyes off the road. The Bronco needed this type of instrumentation so that the operating condition of the engine and the trail could be observed at the same time. I removed the six small Autometer gauges and two larger gauges from the dash and decided to build an enclosed T-6 billet box in which to house these instruments. The dash would be used for items that did not require constant observation, CB, AM/FM, A/C and A/C ducts on each side of the steering column and passenger side of the dash. 1/8" billet was used on the front and rear of the housing, 1/16" gauge was used for the upper and lower housing. The speedometer and tachometer are 3.5" in diameter while the water temperature, volt gauge, ammeter, gas gauge, oil pressure, and vaccuum gauges are 2" in diameter. Two green LED's were installed between the speedometer and tachometer and countersunk into the bezel for left and right turn signals. A red LED was installed below the turn signals, midway between the tachometer and speedometer as a high beam indicator. All allen stainless sockethead screws were used to attach the facing and rear plate to the upper and lower housing. The back of the housing has a cutout for the speedometer cable, oil pressure line, and vaccuum lines. All of the gauge wiring was ported out of the far right side of the instrument housing and routed into a small section of the air vent. The speedometer cable was also routed through the air vent. A major advantage of using this type of instrument housing was the elimination of wiring under the dash. Also, there is no obstruction of the driver's view of the trail. Even when looking right or left through the windshield, the vital readings are visible through the driver's peripheral vision.

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