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small-list Digest Thu, 11 Jan 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 008

In This Issue:
Re: [Re: Front Brake Pads]
[I failed my first smog!!]
Re: Front Brake Pads
Re: [Re: Front Brake Pads]
Subject: Re: [Re: Front Brake Pads]
Re: [Re: Front Brake Pads]
Explorer Pinging!
Ranger seat and bed interchangability
Re: Explorer Pinging!
Re: Explorer Pinging!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Greg Hopper" <ghopper hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: Front Brake Pads]
Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 22:31:04 -0600


"They" may assume whatever they so desire, but I can assure you if you take
a set of PF pads back to Auto Zone, they WILL give you another set (I have
done exactly that).  I also have a friend who has exchanged his 3 different
times, for a total of 4 sets of pads.
Installation isn't covered, but for those of us who install ourselves, it
doesn't matter.  PF pads do indeed have a lifetime warranty, and Auto Zone
will honor it.  And the other parts, just like the installation, only apply
if you have the work done by someone else, in which case your statements are
probably entirely true.

Perhaps I'm on the wrong page here.  I assumed that with the talk of NAPA
parts and etc. that someone had intentions of installing their own pads.  My
apologies if I was wrong.

dave



>Hah!  :-)  No such thing as lifetime brakes.  They're assuming you'll get
rid
>of the car before they wear out *OR* you'll need other brake parts at the
next
>service that aren't covered by the warranty.  (Installation usually isn't
>covered either as I recall.)  Yeah, I buy 'em too but I just throw away the
>paperwork for the warranty as it's about as valuable AS the paper.


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 20:55:43 +0000
From: Adam McLaughlin <kd6poc jps.net>
Subject: [I failed my first smog!!]


Hey Tim! There you are!

I've missed your presence on the email list for while.

Did you hear about the differential carrier ABS ring being cracked? This could be what was wrong
with the system, keeping the light on and off intermittantly. Funny thing is, with the ring out of
the carrier, the rear ABS light stays off all of the time now. Huh...

Okay, here are some more details about the 2.9.

I have been curious about a vacuum leak ever since I installed some of Spark's throttle body
spacers. I used napa gaskets on the lower intake side of the spacers, and a home made paper gasket
between the spacer and the upper intake.

The spacers are black "Garolite" between the lower intake and the upper intake runners. Think of
the radio insulator bakelite and you get the idea.

Hmm.... It has been idling higher than usual recently, so it may pay to go down to the local Napa
and pick up an "Intake gasket" set for the 2.9 just to have the upper intake/plenum gaskets to go
around.

All of the following is less than five thousand miles old.

I have a new Throttle Position sensor, as well as Idle Air Control motor. The Manifold Absolute
Pressure sensor which measures intake vacuum is new as well. The sensor which thread into the
middle air intake runner is new as well. I put teflon tape around it to make sure no air would get
into it either.

The set of fuel injectors is new, ADS from Summit Racing. The fuel pressure regulator is new,
Napa. I think it works at either 35 or 40 PSI. I have not checked it with a fuel pressure guage,
but I have checked it for a bad vacuum diaphram. When the engine is running and I disconnect it's
vacuum line, the engine changes idle speed, but no fuel is seen running through the vacuum hose
down the intake. I replaced it when I did the injectors, trying to shot gun all of the possible
issues I may have with it.

Yeah, the O2 sensor had perhaps a year on it, but since then I have had exhaust work. I thought
maybe they might have damaged it. I put a new one in the Y pipe.

Ignitionwise, I am using the MSD 6A system, Super Conductor Wires and new Auto lite .044 plugs.

The temperature/coolant sensor in the lower intake is new and has been replaced too. I did that
when I did the radiator, water pump and thermostat last year. The fan has been removed and a flex
a light electric fan has been mounted on the radiator.

I am using JBA headers, which are CARB legal and do have a boss for an O2 sensor.

The computer is reprogrammed using James Duff programming. The timing for the engine is set at 12
BTDC.  The air box has been removed and the end of the hose has been cut off, so I could install a
K and N cone.

I have new EEC and Fuel Pump relays, as well as a new high pressure fuel pump, and both filters
have been replaced. Yeah, both. This might be the only B2 with two of them, but there are. There
may be a ton of other stuff, but this is all taht comes to mind at the moment.

When I installed the new JBA headers last winter, I had the muffler shop check to see if the cats
were clogged, they said taht they weren't although the cats were the old pellet style. Hmmm...

Man, with all of the this new stuff here I really wonder: What else is there?

Thursday morning I am going to take the extra hour or two and replace the paper gasket I was
reffering to early in the post with the right fiber one from Napa. Maybe just for piece of mind,
but it could make a difference. I have to be at work by 10 AM, and Napa opens at 7:30... I think I
might be able to do it without any hitches.

Let me know if you would like some more details.

Adam

Tim Turner wrote:

> Adam McLaughlin <kd6poc jps.net> wrote:
> >
> > Is anyone familiar with any smog work to help me get into the passing
> > area? Here is what happens:
> >
> > Tim, this maybe something for you to tell me about!
>
> I can try!  :-)
>
> >
> > Here is what happens at idle.
> >
> > HC 1390 ppm
>
> Lots of fuel not being burned...
>
> > CO2: 10.7 %
>
> Kinda low, but understandable with the other numbers.
>
> > Co: 5.94 %
>
> WOW!  Even with dead cat I'd expect a lot less.
>
> > O2: 2.3 %
>
> Close enough.
>
> > As you can see, WAY to rich.
>
> Yep!
>
> >
> > So, I went home, pulled the codes, got a 1,1. I was a little bit
> > stumped, so I checked the idle voltage at the green wire of the TPS when
> > the plate is fully closed and it was where it should be, .9VDC.
> >
> > I went to Napa and got a set of new .44 plugs (Autolite) a new brass
> > cap, and a new brass rotor, and a new O2 sensor. Set me back $112. Owie!
>
> 44?  That doesn't sound like the right plug number for a 2.9: the right gap
> might be .044" though.  (Or am I getting confused on who has/hasn't installed
> a 5.0; yours is still a (mostly) stock 2.9 but with a chopped top & a lift
> correct?)
>
> > good, tips were a mixture of grey and orange.
>
> The grey indicating on the rich side as we already knew.
>
> > I checked the compression, and every cylinder hit at least 140 PSI on
> > the first stroke, and by the third they were all at 165. Things seem in
> > order...
>
> Sounds pretty good to me.
>
> > Could the cats have gone bad?
>
> Possibly; but given the care you usually take of the truck probably not.  New
> ones *might* mask the problem long enough to smog, but better to find the root
> cause first to prevent damage to the new one(s).
>
> > The smog
> > guy suggested the O2 sensor,
>
> Certainly a good possibility, but didn't you replace it a year or so ago?
>
> > and perhaps since my original cats were
> > still on the truck that they might be due for service too. 172K+ miles
> > on the ticker.
> >
> > I don't know what to think. I get 17 city MPG, and 19 HWY on 92 octane.
> >
> > The computer chip I got from James Duff says that nothing is adjusted in
> > the emmissions, and the new ADS Super Injectors are CARB certified.
> >
> > Does anyone have any suggestions?
>
> Original 2.9 or?  Fuel pressure regulator could be a possibility, Ohming the
> coolant and intake air sensors might be in order, couldn't hurt to check the
> PCV valve, unlikely to have a drooling injector since they're new.  I could be
> wrong but I don't think you've got a vacuum/intake leak since the O2 reading
> sounds about right.  (note.. been 11 years since I was using 4/5 gas readings
> but I'm confident on the numbers being close to Zero on HC, CO, roughly 14-15
> CO2 and not so sure but thinking around 2 for O2 when all is in order
> including the cats.)  MAP sensor could be buggy as well; drag the scope out of
> the Ham shack and look for a good square wave; I'm thinking around 130 Hz to
> 90 Hz from KOEO to Idling (assuming 20" Hg vacuum at idle and at Sea leve).
> Inspect the vacuum hose  to it as well; any 'jelly' inside it means the MAP's
> coming apart and of course any splits/soft spots are lowering the vacuum
> signal to the MAP with a corresponding increase in fuel.
>
> Let me know what you find; I know I've been kinda lax in the mail lately
> (trying to fix & clean house so I can sell it for a better place!), but I'll
> check in here and there.
>
> Tim
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.netscape.com/webmail


------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Jan 2001 21:56:19 +0000
From: Adam McLaughlin <kd6poc jps.net>
Subject: Re: Front Brake Pads


I don't know, we haven't killed any rotors with performance friction yet.
The Ford pad did eat the rotor at 100K, but I think that's because the
aerostar got a lot of water up on it while driving up and through Cobb
Mountain.

So far, so good and 15K on the pads with no complaints. My bronco uses the
same, and I have never wished for more.

Adam

David Cooley wrote:

> How are they as far as wearing the rotors?
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
> > [mailto:small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Adam McLaughlin
> > Sent: Wednesday, January 10, 2001 3:06 AM
> > To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> > Subject: [small-list] Front Brake Pads
> >
> >
> >
> > I like the performance friction pads, they make a lot less black
> > dust and seem to
> > last for a long time.
> >
> > Even on an Aerostar, which is notoriously tough on the brakes! My
> > boss drives us to
> > work on Sundays up the mountain, and he gets 1.5 to 2 times the
> > life out of his
> > pads using Carbon Metalic Performance Friction.
> >
> > They're even good for rolling down steep hills without using
> > engine compression
> > such as four wheeling in nuetral and going up and down steep
> > hills like when
> > commuting over Calistoga Mountain and such.


------------------------------

From: "David Cooley" <n5xmt triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: Front Brake Pads]
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 08:32:17 -0500


Saves the manufacturers money


> "Joe M" <merchjo bellatlantic.net> wrote:
> >
> > I just got Raybestos installed on my 99 after the factory eat my rotors
> > (only 33K)...
>
> FWIW rotors don't have as much 'cuttable' meat on 'em as they
> used to in some
> cases.  I'm replacing a lot more rotors than I did 15 years ago.  :-(
>


------------------------------

Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 06:10:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Bill Ciocco <bciocco yahoo.com>
Subject: Subject: Re: [Re: Front Brake Pads]



."Joe M" <merchjo bellatlantic.net> wrote:
.>
.> I just got Raybestos installed on my 99 after the factory eat my rotors
.> (only 33K)...
.
.FWIW rotors don't have as much 'cuttable' meat on 'em as they used to in some
.cases.  I'm replacing a lot more rotors than I did 15 years ago.  :-(
.
.Tim

Aside form the thinner rotors, the other part of the reason we are replacing more rotors is that
people want their pads to last forever. I used to get long lasting pads and have to replace the
rotors every time. Now, I get the cheap pads and let them wear instead of the rotors.
With friction stopping, one of the parts has to wear. I would rather it be the pads than the
rotors.

Bill

=====
~               .--~~,__
  :-....,-------`~~'._.'
   `-,,,  ,_      ;'~U'
    _,-' ,'`-__; '--.
   (_/'~~      ''''(;

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------------------------------

From: "Joe M" <merchjo bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: Front Brake Pads]
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 18:23:51 -0500


Tell me about it....$90 a piece

-----Original Message-----
From: small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of David Cooley
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 8:32 AM
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [small-list] Re: [Re: Front Brake Pads]



Saves the manufacturers money


> "Joe M" <merchjo bellatlantic.net> wrote:
> >
> > I just got Raybestos installed on my 99 after the factory eat my rotors
> > (only 33K)...
>
> FWIW rotors don't have as much 'cuttable' meat on 'em as they
> used to in some
> cases.  I'm replacing a lot more rotors than I did 15 years ago.  :-(
>



------------------------------

From: "Ron,Marge,Ted" <rmtsadu sunlink.net>
Subject: Explorer Pinging!
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 19:28:24 -0500

Hi Tim...here's one for you if you don't mind. My wife's 94 Explorer with 56K on it has started pinging around 2 years ago. Tried different brands of gas, and premium gas as well...still pings. Had one dealer service it and said it had a partially blocked fuel filter. He said it causes it to run lean and therefore pings. So after a new filter it still pinged. On to dealer number 2, he says can't find anything wrong with it and said I should only use regular fuel as the high test can actually cause pinging because of the additives in it carbonizing...go figure. Dealer number 3 said it needed O2 sensors and also he decarbonized the valves with some kind of additive he put in the fuel rail. That seemed to help a LITTLE, but afterawhile it still pings as usual. Dealer then told me it is characteristic of the 3.0 and 4.0 V6s to ping and not to worry about it....I don't buy that one! I had someone on this list  tell me to clean the MAF sensor elements with electrical cleaner or brake cleaner which I did, but still no difference. I'm running out of ideas and worry that my wife will eventually knock a piston out of it. I read somewhere that if all else fails, there is an octane shorting bar in the harness that can be removed to retard the timing, but that doing so will cause a loss of power and gas mileage...don't want to do that :) Any ideas would be appreciated.
                                               Ron


------------------------------

From: "Mark Biederbeck" <meb8100 email.msn.com>
Subject: Ranger seat and bed interchangability
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 17:54:17 -0800


Will seats from a 91-94 (or maybe even newer) Explorer interchange with a
Ranger (mine is a 91 Xtra cab)?  I am specifically thinking of the leather
buckets but wouldn't think it would matter which type.  Also, I'm sure I
would have to modify the electrical, not too concerned about that.

Also, I asked this question a while back and got no response.  SOMEONE out
there has to know.  I need to replace the bed on mine (it's a 4x4).  Will it
interchange with all types of short-bed rangers or only an Xtracab 4x4?

Thanks,

Mark Biederbeck
mailto:meb8100 email.msn.com



------------------------------

From: "Joe M" <merchjo bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Explorer Pinging!
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 21:28:55 -0500


My 99 Ranger with a 3.0L does the same thing.  The Dealer replace the
following with no luck

Programmed the computer
Replaced MAF
Replaced coil pack twice
Replaced computer

They finally brought in the regional rep, he said it was caused by using my
overdrive at speeds under 50mph.  I did not buy that.  He what I did to
repair it:

Installed a Jacobs DIS
Installed NGK power grove plugs with a .055 gap
Installed TRUE-REV SPORT INDUCTION KIT
Use 93 oct fuel
No more ping and power and performance has greatly improved.

I also sued Ford for breach of warranty which they did settled.

I did find out from a mechanic at the Ford dealer that the pinging is a
known problem with trucks with the 4.1 rear ends of coarse, Ford has no know
fix.

Good luck


-----Original Message-----
From: small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Ron,Marge,Ted
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 7:28 PM
To: Ford Truck
Subject: [small-list] Explorer Pinging!


Hi Tim...here's one for you if you don't mind. My wife's 94 Explorer with
56K on it has started pinging around 2 years ago. Tried different brands of
gas, and premium gas as well...still pings.  <clip>


------------------------------

From: "Wesley Murphy" <wesmurphy nxs.net>
Subject: Re: Explorer Pinging!
Date: Thu, 11 Jan 2001 23:47:37 -0500


My 91 Explorer was making a lot of valve train noise (not sure if you would
actually call it pinging) but however, the driver's side head was leaking,
causing me to burn coolant, and the intake manifold gasket was shot.  After
replacing both gaskets and one lifter (which would mainly peck on startup
only), my problem was gone and no more noise.

I would look at the manifold gasket and pull the spark plugs to make sure
everything is burning ok.
Good luck!

Wesley Murphy



----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron,Marge,Ted" <rmtsadu sunlink.net>
To: "Ford Truck" <small-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 11, 2001 7:28 PM
Subject: [small-list] Explorer Pinging!


> Hi Tim...here's one for you if you don't mind. My wife's 94 Explorer with
56K on it has started pinging around 2 years ago. Tried different brands of
gas, and premium gas as well...still pings. Had one dealer service it and
said it had a partially blocked fuel filter. He said it causes it to run
lean and therefore pings. So after a new filter it still pinged. On to
dealer number 2, he says can't find anything wrong with it and said I should
only use regular fuel as the high test can actually cause pinging because of
the additives in it carbonizing...go figure. Dealer number 3 said it needed
O2 sensors and also he decarbonized the valves with some kind of additive he
put in the fuel rail. That seemed to help a LITTLE, but afterawhile it still
pings as usual. Dealer then told me it is characteristic of the 3.0 and 4.0
V6s to ping and not to worry about it....I don't buy that one! I had someone
on this list  tell me to clean the MAF sensor elements with electrical
cleaner or brak!
> e cleaner which I did, but still no difference. I'm running out of ideas
and worry that my wife will eventually knock a piston out of it. I read
somewhere that if all else fails, there is an octane shorting bar in the
harness that can be removed to retard the timing, but that doing so will
cause a loss of power and gas mileage...don't want to do that :) Any ideas
would be appreciated.
>                                                 Ron ....


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