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Subject: small-list Digest V2001 #41
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small-list Digest Wed, 14 Mar 2001 Volume: 2001  Issue: 041

In This Issue:
Re: engine de-carb? And plugs.
Re: '92 V6 Quits at 3k Rpm
Re: '92 V6 Quits at 3k Rpm
Explorer Overheating

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: ManicMechanicNC netscape.net
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 00:23:09 -0500
Subject: Re: engine de-carb? And plugs.



> There is some truth to it, but if it stopped with new plugs, then carbon
> isn't the problem.

Arguably couldn't new effeciently firing plugs get the flame started just before the carbon hot spot was in the past?

> First thing to do is go back to the stock plug... Bosch plats have a very
> fine center electrode that get's hotter than a standard plug and can
> contribute to pinging...

Nothing like a spark plug discussion to get the list buzzing!  Worth trying the stock plug, use the Motorcraft Plat. version if you're so inclined; it and Autolite Plat/Double plat. don't have the .3mm fine electrode Bosch does.

> An engine "decarb" is basically running the engine at 2500RPM and slowly
> pouring water into the intake.  as the water gets into the cylinders, it
> wets the carbon, then as the fuel burns, it flashes into steam and "blows"
> the carbon off the head, piston crown etc.  can be helpful, but if it's
> carboned up enough, the chunks can be large and cause bent valves, plugged
> cats etc.

It was a decent (but risky!) way to do it 30 years ago; of course there was no substitute for the earlier routine method of removing the head and manually scraping the carbon from the piston tops.  Later as fuel injection became less of an oddity carbon deposits on the back of the valves became a problem.  (BMW actually had a procedure that involved removing the manifold and blasting the valves with ground walnut shells to eliminate cold hesitation.)  Gasoline additives after the phase out of lead have made things worse; fortunately chemists have found that PEA (Poly Ethyl Amine) is one of the few chemicals that will effectively remove automotive carbons on the vehicle.

> if the engine uses a MAF (not sure if it's MAF or MAP on 94) then a can of
> carb cleaner spray will help... Spray it over the MAF with the engine off
> and make sure you get the elements very good.  A dirty MAF causes pinging as
> it senses less air into the engine and makes the mixture leaner.
>

But be sure it's a high quality cleaner that leaves no residue, possibly follow up with electronics cleaner to be sure.  Roughly a 50% chance of reviving a slow reacting MAF for a short time this way.

> >  My '94 4.0 has a bad knocking problem above 3k rpm. I put in
> > Bosch platinum plugs
> > and it stopped for a couple of weeks , but now its back. Ive
> > also tried better gas

Better as in brand or higher octane?  The higher the octane the more residues (ie carbon) you'll develop.

> > a few different additives with no luck.

Most are essentially useless for carbon removal, some may help on injector deposits.  "Chevron Techron" is one of the few with really usefully chemicals for both from what I've heard/seen/read.  Still no substitute for the stronger chemical(s) available to a shop

>  My regular mechanic
> > says I need to have an
> > "engine de-carb" done to remove excess carbon

Very possible;  I've seen some wonders worked by a good induction service.  There are a variety of supposed "carbon cleaning" tools  out there; some are excellent, some not so good.

>  > it also uses
> > about 1qt. of oil every
> > 5 weeks or so, he says it'll fix that too) .

That I find hard to believe...  I've used a bunch of cleaners over the last 15 years and don't recall one claiming that!

> It6 costs $90.
> > to have it done.
> >
> > Has anyone else had this done? Is it worth $90. ?

Does the chemical used contain PEA?  if yes then probably so.  I assume since he's your regular mechanic you have some trust and he'd do per the instuctions with the equipment involved.  $90 would be high for some water down the intake, but awful low for removing the head and physically removing carbon!

Will it fix your problem?  Who knows!  It certainly can't hurt though; be sure it's a name brand device, preferably with PEA.

Lots more to say, but it's late and gotta run.  :-(

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 18:08:07 -0600
From: a&b <pedalfox bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: '92 V6 Quits at 3k Rpm


Doesn't have a distributor. Plug wires plug into one of those plastic lumps
with magic inside..module?
bg

"Azie L. Magnusson" wrote:

> ----------------------------------------------------------
> Support FTE - Check out our store:
> http://www.motorhaven.com/
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>
> The magnetic pickup in the distributor is what he is referring to I'm sure.
>
> Azie Magnusson
> Ardmore, Al.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "a&b" <pedalfox bellsouth.net>
> To: <small-list ford-trucks.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 5:42 PM
> Subject: [small-list] Re: '92 V6 Quits at 3k Rpm
>
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> > Support FTE - Check out our store:
> > http://www.motorhaven.com/
> > ----------------------------------------------------------
> >
> > What pickup? CPS?
> > thanks,
> > Bill G
> >
> > ManicMechanicNC netscape.net wrote:
> >
> > > > My '92 Explorer started just shutting off at 3k rpm the other day.
> This
> > >
> > > Just an educated guess but I'd look into the ignition module or
> pick-up..
> > >
> > > Tim T
> > > __________________________________________________________________
> > > Get your own FREE, personal Netscape Webmail account today at
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------------------------------

From: "David Cooley" <n5xmt triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: '92 V6 Quits at 3k Rpm
Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2001 23:20:46 -0500


Could also be the neutral safety switch... if the EEC thinks it's in neutral
or park, there is a 3K rpm rev limiter.



> Doesn't have a distributor. Plug wires plug into one of those
> plastic lumps
> with magic inside..module?



------------------------------

From: "Edward C. Miller" <millered pb.com>
Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2001 08:15:26 -0500
Subject: Explorer Overheating




I have a 1998 4.0L SOHC.   I just noticed the temperature gauge riding up near
the red.   I checked the fluid and it has plenty and the fan/water pump belt is
new and tight.    I think it is probably just a termostat problem.  Any other
ideas?

Also while I'm working on it - the car has 65K miles.      How long do
hoses/waterpumps last on these engines.    Is it time for preventative
replacements?

Thanks in advance.

Ed



------------------------------

End of small-list Digest V2001 #41
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Ford Truck Enthusiasts  offers the following in its online store for
Ranger, Explorer, Bronco II and Aerostar owners:

-Superchips performance chips
-Diablo performance chips

Books:
-How to Build and Modify Ford 60 Degree V-6 Engines
-V-6 Performance (Buick, Ford and Chevy 90/60 degree)

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http://www.motorhaven.com/</a>
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