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Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list small-list); Wed, 01 Nov 2000 12:08:07 -0500 (EST)
Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 12:08:07 -0500 (EST) From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar  ford-trucks.com>
To: small-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #185 Precedence: list ========================================================== Ford Truck Enthusiasts Small Chassis Truck Mailing List Visit our web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject of the message. ========================================================== ------------------------------------ small-list Digest Tue, 31 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000 Issue: 185 In This Issue: Re: 1992 Ranger 4.0L Oil Leak Question Re: 1992 Ranger 4.0L Oil Leak Question Re: 302 going into a 1988 Ranger Ranger exhaust Re: Ranger exhaust Re: Ranger exhaust Heater will not shut off? Re: Ranger exhaust Re: Ranger exhaust Ranger shocks Re: Ranger exhaust Re: Ranger exhaust Re: Heater will not shut off? Re: Ranger exhaust BII Rear Axles and Lockers Re: Ranger exhaust I am in need of some parts!!! ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 10:24:03 -0800 Subject: 1992 Ranger 4.0L Oil Leak Question From: "Rick L. Anderson" <r.l.anderson juno.com>
Greetings, Got a ?? for anyone. I've got a 1992 Ranger w/ 4.0L, 5-Speed, 4X4, extended cab. I have had an oil leak problem, with my valve cover gaskets, for sometime. I have heard that this is a common problem with this year of engine. My brother-in-law has a 92 Explorer and reported he had the same problem until he went to a Ford dealer and paid about $300 to get this problem fixed. In addition, I was listening to a national automotive radio talk "fix it" show (No not Click & Clack) and , if I heard correctly, this individual stated that the leaking valve cover gaskets are a common problem. What I would like to find out is this: 1. Is this indeed a common problem? 2. What is "the best" method of sealing these valve covers? I'm a self-wrencher, but it's been quite a few years since I've tackled this problem. My normal fix would be to go to NAPA to get some new gaskets, slather in some Permatex (Aviation-Type) and replace them. However I've been hearing that there are better gaskets/products that one could use that are probably better. If anyone has replaced their valve cover gaskets and has any "killer" tips/hints to get these things really sealed up good, your input will be appreciated. Thanks very much in advance. Rick L. Anderson 1992 Ford Ranger ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 11:05:08 -0800 From: john yee <johny netapp.com>
Subject: Re: 1992 Ranger 4.0L Oil Leak Question This is a problem on the 2.9 V6 engines. Ford and Fel-pro supposedly make a thicker gasket. It may be a pain to get the covers off with all the vacuum hoses and stuff, but I'm sure it's better than $300. Engine cleaner and Retightening the valve covers, is an alternative, but not a long term fix. After 139K on the 89 Bronco II, i'm finally going to look into redoing the gaskets. Check out the valve cover section here for some ideas. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Cafe/7030/personal.html -john "Rick L. Anderson" wrote: > Greetings, > > Got a ?? for anyone. I've got a 1992 Ranger w/ 4.0L, 5-Speed, 4X4, > extended cab. I have had an oil leak problem, with my valve cover > gaskets, for sometime. I have heard that this is a common problem with > this year of engine. My brother-in-law has a 92 Explorer and reported he > had the same problem until he went to a Ford dealer and paid about $300 > to get this problem fixed. In addition, I was listening to a national > automotive radio talk "fix it" show (No not Click & Clack) and , if I > heard correctly, this individual stated that the leaking valve cover > gaskets are a common problem. What I would like to find out is this: > > 1. Is this indeed a common problem? > 2. What is "the best" method of sealing these valve covers? > > I'm a self-wrencher, but it's been quite a few years since I've tackled > this problem. My normal fix would be to go to NAPA to get some new > gaskets, slather in some Permatex (Aviation-Type) and replace them. > However I've been hearing that there are better gaskets/products that one > could use that are probably better. > > If anyone has replaced their valve cover gaskets and has any "killer" > tips/hints to get these things really sealed up good, your input will be > appreciated. > > Thanks very much in advance. > > Rick L. Anderson > 1992 Ford Ranger > ------------------------------ From: "Stephen Bozzone" <editor rockzone.com>
Subject: Re: 1992 Ranger 4.0L Oil Leak Question Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 15:01:23 -0500 Go with the blue felpro's (rubber) and use no sealant. do not overtorque. Steve ----- Original Message ----- From: "john yee" <johny netapp.com>
To: <small-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 2:05 PM Subject: [small-list] Re: 1992 Ranger 4.0L Oil Leak Question > This is a problem on the 2.9 V6 engines. Ford and Fel-pro supposedly make > a thicker gasket. It may be a pain to get the covers off with all the > vacuum hoses and stuff, but I'm sure it's better than $300. > > Engine cleaner and Retightening the valve covers, is an alternative, > but not a long term fix. After 139K on the 89 Bronco II, i'm finally going to > > look into redoing the gaskets. > > Check out the valve cover section here for some ideas. > http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Cafe/7030/personal.html > > -john > > "Rick L. Anderson" wrote: > > > Greetings, > > > > Got a ?? for anyone. I've got a 1992 Ranger w/ 4.0L, 5-Speed, 4X4, > > extended cab. I have had an oil leak problem, with my valve cover > > gaskets, for sometime. I have heard that this is a common problem with > > this year of engine. My brother-in-law has a 92 Explorer and reported he > > had the same problem until he went to a Ford dealer and paid about $300 > > to get this problem fixed. In addition, I was listening to a national > > automotive radio talk "fix it" show (No not Click & Clack) and , if I > > heard correctly, this individual stated that the leaking valve cover > > gaskets are a common problem. What I would like to find out is this: > > > > 1. Is this indeed a common problem? > > 2. What is "the best" method of sealing these valve covers? > > > > I'm a self-wrencher, but it's been quite a few years since I've tackled > > this problem. My normal fix would be to go to NAPA to get some new > > gaskets, slather in some Permatex (Aviation-Type) and replace them. > > However I've been hearing that there are better gaskets/products that one > > could use that are probably better. > > > > If anyone has replaced their valve cover gaskets and has any "killer" > > tips/hints to get these things really sealed up good, your input will be > > appreciated. > > > > Thanks very much in advance. > > > > Rick L. Anderson > > 1992 Ford Ranger > > > > ============================================================= > To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 > Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 12:05:39 -0800 From: john yee <johny netapp.com>
Subject: Re: 302 going into a 1988 Ranger These are my favorite site for this type of info. http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://therangerstation.homestead.com/V8Conversions.html http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jamesduff.com Chris Oostveen wrote: > I am in process of rebuilding a 302 for my Ranger. I am going to use a c-4 > transmission, B&M mega shifter and other various bits and pieces. I have an > idea of what needs to be done. > > What is the most cost effective way to install this thing? I have a radiator > that will work. What about mounts and such? ------------------------------ From: thegman ntelos.net
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 16:30:07 -0500 Subject: Ranger exhaust I have a 93 Ranger and put on a free-flow cat, then a Flowmaster/new pipes back. Sounds like a Mustang 5.0 GT (nice, and not too loud). Paul Gayda ------------------------------ From: william.hickey bankofamerica.com
Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 16:47:15 -0500 Subject: Re: Ranger exhaust Hi, What engine do you have and do you have dual pipes out of the flowmaster ? Bill thegman ntelos.net on 10/31/2000 04:30:07 PM
Please respond to small-list ford-trucks.com
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
cc: (bcc: William R. Hickey/USA/BAC) Subject: [small-list] Ranger exhaust I have a 93 Ranger and put on a free-flow cat, then a Flowmaster/new pipes back. Sounds like a Mustang 5.0 GT (nice, and not too loud). Paul Gayda ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Jack" <ucmeflyby email.com>
Subject: Re: Ranger exhaust Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 16:34:45 -0600 What flow did you put on? Dual or single? (not you, the pipes) ------------------------------ From: "Jack" <ucmeflyby email.com>
Subject: Heater will not shut off? Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 16:53:42 -0600 I've a '97 reg cab 3.0 and the AC (134a) cools REAL well. It get's darn cold. My question/problem is that the temp. adjustment knob seems to serve no purpose. In Max AC it's full blown cold, no matter what. If I adjust the temp nothing changes. Also, for any other position on the control switch, ie. vent, defrost... all they do is blow HOT air, again regardless of the temp control position. What's the deal? ------------------------------ From: "Midnight" <midnite sgi.net>
Subject: Re: Ranger exhaust Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 21:52:48 -0500 I did the same with mine, but I ran duels from the Flowmaster back. I also did it in stainless, that way I never have to deal with it again. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 22:16:48 -0500 From: David Cooley <n5xmt triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ranger exhaust At 09:52 PM 10/31/2000 -0500, you wrote: >I did the same with mine, but I ran duels from the Flowmaster back. I also >did it in stainless, that way I never have to deal with it again. the flowmaster will rust out though... they have a nasty habit of that... ------------------------------ From: "Craig Rabin" <crabin hotmail.com>
Subject: Ranger shocks Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 22:27:25 -0500 > Subject: Question about Shocks for a 2000 Ranger > > Has anyone replaced the shocks on their Range yet? If you have, which shocks did you put on and did it make the ride stiffer and solid?? > I have a 98 Extended cab 2wd. I replaced the rear shocks at 18,000 miles with Bilsteen shocks. The go for about $65 each, but it made the truck feel totally different. Gone is the floaty feeling, the wheel hop, and the harsh ride. The truck rides smoother, having better control over the bumps. The rear used to bounce to the right going over rough pavement, and in snow the wheel hop could get so bad, it would feel like the axle would rip off the truck. Now, the ride over rough pavment is good (for a truck) when empty, and smooth with my winter weights (360 lbs sand). Wheel hop is 90% gone. When loaded heavy, going over a dip in the road still causes the rear to move a lot, but its under control. The truck no longer wants to kick the rear out when going around a corner with rough pavment. The truck feels like it is more firmly planted to the road. This drastic improvement was due to replacing just the rear shocks. ------------------------------ From: "Midnight" <midnite sgi.net>
Subject: Re: Ranger exhaust Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 22:40:16 -0500 Maybe, but my truck rarely ever sees rain. Turned into a show truck a few years ago. Getting this exhaust on was one of the last few steps I needed before I really get into major work. Plus, now I can get the entire exhaust polished to a chrome finish. ------------------------------ Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 22:50:07 -0500 From: David Cooley <n5xmt triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ranger exhaust At 10:40 PM 10/31/2000 -0500, you wrote: >Maybe, but my truck rarely ever sees rain. Turned into a show truck a few >years ago. Getting this exhaust on was one of the last few steps I needed >before I really get into major work. Plus, now I can get the entire exhaust >polished to a chrome finish. It's not the water on the outside you need to worry about. it's the condensation on the inside of the muffler that eats it up. Especially a show vehicle, low mileage, most trips don't get the exhaust hot enough to vaporize all the moisture that collects when the engine is running in it... The design of the flowmasters actually helps the mufflers hold water in them... Walker sells the UltraFlow line of mufflers that are shaped like a turbo muffler (oval case) but a straight thru design, in polished stainless for about 80-90 bucks each. They have several single in/dual out configurations that would complete your exhaust system and make it all stainless. They also have less of a drone than the flowmasters. ------------------------------ From: "Joe M" <merchjo bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Heater will not shut off? Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 23:46:23 -0500 There is a control valve in the heater line that turn off the hot water going to the heater core when the a/c is set to max. You can disable this by plugging the vacuum line that goes to this valve. -----Original Message----- From: small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Jack
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 5:54 PM To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [small-list] Heater will not shut off? I've a '97 reg cab 3.0 and the AC (134a) cools REAL well. It get's darn cold. My question/problem is that the temp. adjustment knob seems to serve no purpose. In Max AC it's full blown cold, no matter what. If I adjust the temp nothing changes. Also, for any other position on the control switch, ie. vent, defrost... all they do is blow HOT air, again regardless of the temp control position. What's the deal? ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ From: "Joe M" <merchjo bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Ranger exhaust Date: Tue, 31 Oct 2000 23:53:15 -0500 How are the DynoMax Ultra-Flo SS Systems? -----Original Message----- From: small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of David Cooley
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2000 10:50 PM To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [small-list] Re: Ranger exhaust At 10:40 PM 10/31/2000 -0500, you wrote: >Maybe, but my truck rarely ever sees rain. Turned into a show truck a few >years ago. Getting this exhaust on was one of the last few steps I needed >before I really get into major work. Plus, now I can get the entire exhaust >polished to a chrome finish. It's not the water on the outside you need to worry about. it's the condensation on the inside of the muffler that eats it up. Especially a show vehicle, low mileage, most trips don't get the exhaust hot enough to vaporize all the moisture that collects when the engine is running in it... The design of the flowmasters actually helps the mufflers hold water in them... Walker sells the UltraFlow line of mufflers that are shaped like a turbo muffler (oval case) but a straight thru design, in polished stainless for about 80-90 bucks each. They have several single in/dual out configurations that would complete your exhaust system and make it all stainless. They also have less of a drone than the flowmasters. ============================================================= To unsubscribe: www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3 Please remove this footer when replying. ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 03:57:16 -0500 From: J Cope <88biixlt fncool.com>
Subject: BII Rear Axles and Lockers I've got an '88 BII with 4WD. I've had major problems offroad due to the annoying lack of any kind of locker or limited slip diff. I was wondering how hard/expensive it would be to install either of these. Did any of the BIIs or Rangers of similar years actually come with limited slips in the back? If so, could I find one in a junkyard and bolt it on? Any help/info is always appreciated. Thanks! JC '88 BII XLT 10k tow hooks 40ch CB K&N Light bar Headlight Stone Guards 30x9.5 BFG A/T TA KOs http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.nbci.com/88BIIXLT/Main/main.html ------------------------------ Date: Wed, 01 Nov 2000 07:26:05 -0500 From: David Cooley <n5xmt triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Ranger exhaust At 11:53 PM 10/31/2000 -0500, you wrote: >How are the DynoMax Ultra-Flo SS Systems? I've never used their complete systems, but several people I know have. They said the fit was great, and the improvements in sound and performance were pretty good as well. I've used just the mufflers and had my systems made myself... Pretty good performance boost and a great sound! ------------------------------ From: "Chris Oostveen" <coost i2k.com>
Subject: I am in need of some parts!!! Date: Wed, 1 Nov 2000 13:05:08 -0500 I dropped my block off for machine work this morning and I went through the garage looking for bits and pieces to complete the motor and came up with a short list. I need the following for a 302. Dual sump fox body pan and pick-up. Do they have the dipstick in the pan? If so I need that too. A good usable Duraspark distributor, or used performance one. Flex plate for C-4 tranny, 50oz balance. .... To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts
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