Received: with LISTAR (v0.129a; list small-list); Tue, 17 Oct 2000 23:12:11 -0400 (EDT)
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 23:12:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Ford Truck Enthusiasts List Server <listar ford-trucks.com>
To: small-list digest users <listar ford-trucks.com>
Reply-to: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #174
Precedence: list

==========================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts Small Chassis Truck Mailing List

Visit our  web site: http://www.ford-trucks.com

To unsubscribe, send email to: listar ford-trucks.com with
the words "unsubscribe small-list" in the subject  of  the
message.
==========================================================

------------------------------------
small-list Digest Mon, 16 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 174

In This Issue:
Re: [Hood Lock]
Re: 2.9 gets tinkered with ('getting it on' and safety me
ADMIN: Pictorial additions
Re: '86 Throttle Body
Driveshaft Rumble
Spark Plug Wires
Re: [Spark Plug Wires]
Vibration
Re: [Spark Plug Wires]
Re: Vibration
[Hood Lock]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 17 Oct 00 00:49:16 EDT
From: Tim Turner <ManicMechanicNC netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Hood Lock]

Adam McLaughlin <kd6poc jps.net> wrote:
> Do any of you rememeber the T handles hood lock that was available in
> the late 1970s, earlyu 1980s full size Ford Vehicles?

Yeah.. the PITA handles from the service side.  ;-)  Gotta remove the key from
the ignition, unlock the release, re-insert the key in the ignition to work on
it....  Not as annoying as "wheel locks" since the key is handy but pretty
close.


> Can I get something like that for my chop top bronco 2?

I would think the F-Series cable would work fine; might need to make a loop in
the cable somewhere if it's longer.

> and I would like to deter amateur thieves from getting inside the hood,
> since the engine is where I spent a lot of my money and time.

Well... the suggested hood pins would work better if used with locks.  It's
pretty easy to release (most?) hoods from the outside by snaking your arm up
and grabbing the cable housing near the radiator support then yanking it.
Messes up the cable, but for theft (or in my case to get it open to *replace*
the cable) who cares?  I don't recall if the B-II is 'easily' yanked, but it
doesn't stand out in my mind as one of the vehicles that I've fought to get
open with a broken cable.  (FWD Buick Park Ave. stands out FWIW..)  A hooked
pick works well for releasing the latch as well but takes a bit more
finesse/time that 'amatuer' theives might be lacking

Tim

PS: Haven't forgotten the ABS note; buried at work with re-paving the parking
lot going on outside and me trying to re-work the air lines along the roof.
:-(

TT

TT

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.netscape.com/webmail

------------------------------

From: "Keith Christensen" <radiopro kendra.com>
Subject: Re: 2.9 gets tinkered with ('getting it on' and safety me
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 00:49:13 -0700

I chopped off lots of previous stuff- this is off the 'digest
version' from the perf-list.

> From: "wish" <wish ford-trucks.net>
> Date: Mon, 16 Oct 2000 13:30:02 GMT
> Subject: Re: 2.9 gets tinkered with

> >For that comment, you deserve a ride!! Then you'll see why the
CA4WD wants me
> to get a roll cage and five point harnesses.

I'll agree to most of that, . (if you are into really 'getting it
on')
I  hate 'submarine straps',  but I'm  not at all adverse to usual
5/4 point harnesses;  I just had 'works' LMC 1500 SnoCat retrofitted
with  same after the OEM "cheapass '69 Chev' seatbelts" broke --- no
stress, just junk!    (The guy who installed the new mount points is
a circletrack guy when he's not fixing copcars and such----)
(SnoCats are 'hi-risk' , the NW Washington State area is 2nd under
AK  for avalanche )

In reality , most racing 'harnesses'  are based off what Unca Sammy
puts in USAF fighterplane cockpits.. (that's where it all started..
and that's where lots of us got the "rejects(??)" that we put in our
own rigs back in the 50's/60's !)

As for "rollcages" , I should probably keep my mouth  shut.......

..... I do claim that I'm alive today because I had a rollbar in my
old M38A1 after a 6 and a half rollover episode, belted in with
"past 14 months USAF reject F102 harnesses" .  One broken finger!
(caught under the windshield frame), and assorted bruises;
passenger lost his wallet , found 100ft up the hill .  The left rear
axle was bent, but we drove it home..  (minus windshield, and cloth
top..)

You have to remember that Willey's used solid sheetmetal back in
1952....

But since I did open same orifice...

Like about 80% of the "stuff" out there on the market, most all
rollcages are "show stuff" . They "make you think you have a racer"
.
Unless you are prepared to cut the body panels so that you can
physically connect the rollcage  to the frame, all you gain is about
20% 'crush resistance' .


As for the B II.., all that is somewhat moot. Ford actually built a
fair amount of 'roll cage' into the later ones,, 86 on. .   I've not
seen the roof/sidebody structure in the 83-4-5's; can't say.

(Seen 5 'so-called' tipover B II's in the wreckingyards, none had
severe "roof crush", ....  )

Unless youwant to cut the bejesus out of the body, (witch usually
boogers  the built-in stuff). don't bother.


> Hahahaha ... you mean its not just 'cause its an SUV ?  :)

"SUV"... Naw..  Mine's a real 4wd.  I use it as a tool .



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 12:23:35 -0400
From: Ken Payne <kpayne ford-trucks.com>
Subject: ADMIN: Pictorial additions

The following pictures have been added to the web site
Picture Gallery since the 12th of October:

2001 F-150 Supercrew
1999 Explorer Sport
1994 F-150 4x4
1992 F-250
1982 F-150
1952 F-1
1928 Ford pickup

Each picture is linked off the main page of the web
site.

<a href="http://www.ford-trucks.com">www.ford-trucks.com</a>

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 09:59:36 -0700
From: john yee <johny netapp.com>
Subject: Re: '86 Throttle Body

You can also use a 87 TB.

I've also found these sites useful for bronco II's and parts...

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.therangerstation.cjb.net/
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.homestead.com/therangerstation/2_9_Page.html
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.car-part.com/

-john



J Cope wrote:

> I know the TBs off of the '86 BIIs were a little bigger than the '88 that I
> have, but I'm having a horrible time trying to find one.  The one local
> junkyard that I tried was no help, and neither was carparts.com or
> wrenchhead.com.  If anyone knows where I can find one, that would be great.
> Thanks in advance!
>
> JC
> '88 BII XLT
> 10k tow hooks
> 40ch CB
> K&N
> Light bar
> Headlight Stone Guards
> 30x9.5 BFG A/T TA KOs
> http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://members.nbci.com/88BIIXLT/Main/main.html
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Midnight" <midnite sgi.net>
Subject: Driveshaft Rumble
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:48:22 -0400

I hope somebody else out here has maybe had this problem, that way I can get
rid of mine too.  I keep having a vibration coming from my driveline
whenever I pull out from a stop.  Also I get this if I pull out to slow and
then stomp on the gas.  It seems to be almost a ratcheting sound, and it
definitely comes from the back end.  I have a 6" suspension lift on my
truck, and I installed the axle shims that came with the kit.  I also
installed Rancho Torsion bars to help get rid of this.  I did one other
modification last year, and when I did this it seemed to tone down some.
When I took the carrier bearing and I cut off the crossmember that it mounts
to, and took both of them and lowered them under the frame 1/2", it seemed
to make things a little better.  I also put in an SVO differential cover
with the axle support kit, but this seemed to do nothing but dress things
up.  Any suggestions from anyone out there would definitely be appreciated.
I want to start doing things to the motor to start beefing it up, but not if
this continues.  Thanks again.

Jerry Dean
96 Custom Ranger


------------------------------

From: "Midnight" <midnite sgi.net>
Subject: Spark Plug Wires
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:50:03 -0400

Any tips on what and how to change a set of sparkplug wires on a 96 Ranger.
I am afraid to touch anything with that coil pack in there.  I want to put
in a set of performance wires, but what do I need to do special? Anything?


------------------------------

Date: 17 Oct 00 23:06:36 EDT
From: Tim Turner <ManicMechanicNC netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Spark Plug Wires]

"Midnight" <midnite sgi.net> wrote:
> Any tips on what and how to change a set of sparkplug wires on a 96 Ranger.
> I am afraid to touch anything with that coil pack in there.

Don't attempt it while the engine is running!  :-)  Seriously though... a
little bit of dielectric grease inside the plug boots will help for future
removal and try to follow the original routing when installing the new wires.
Treat the coil pack as if it was a regular (but expensive!) distributor cap;
it's still just a place for the Voltage to go out to the proper wire at the
right time.

No need to fear anything; just have at it and take your time.  :-)

Tim




____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://home.netscape.com/webmail

------------------------------

From: "Azie L. Magnusson" <maggie11 HiWAAY.net>
Subject: Vibration
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 22:05:10 -0500


Jerry D. writes:  >>I hope somebody else out here has maybe had this problem, that way I can get
rid of mine too.  I keep having a vibration coming from my driveline
whenever I pull out from a stop.  Also I get this if I pull out to slow and
then stomp on the gas.  It seems to be almost a ratcheting sound, and it
definitely comes from the back end.  I have a 6" suspension lift on my
truck, and I installed the axle shims that came with the kit.  I also
installed Rancho Torsion bars to help get rid of this.  I did one other
modification last year, and when I did this it seemed to tone down some.
When I took the carrier bearing and I cut off the crossmember that it mounts
to, and took both of them and lowered them under the frame 1/2", it seemed
to make things a little better. <<

My bet is that it is u-joints...  That is fairly common with that much lift..

Azie Magnusson
Ardmore, Al.


------------------------------

From: "Midnight" <midnite sgi.net>
Subject: Re: [Spark Plug Wires]
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 23:25:03 -0400

Thanks, now I have a little bit of confidence in trying this.  Might not
seem like much, but when it could wipe out the entire truck, then .........


------------------------------

From: "Midnight" <midnite sgi.net>
Subject: Re: Vibration
Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 23:26:05 -0400

Just had them checked today at the Ford garage.  They said that they are all
tight.  Nothing wrong with any of them.  Could I still have too much angle
on the carrier bearing and need to lower it a little more?


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 17 Oct 2000 21:09:13 +0100
From: Adam McLaughlin <kd6poc jps.net>
Subject: [Hood Lock]

Hey Tim,

I ended up getting a set of Mr. Gasket Hood Locks. Put one in each front corner of the hood,
straight down through to the front crossmember where the radiator sits. It took me about two hours
to get the hood and chassis drilled nicely, and chassis punched for smoothness. Looks good!!

I feel a lot better for spending the $29 for the equipment. After seeing how this goes together,
you would have to be real serious about wanting inside the hood of the bronco.

You're right, it could be a big bother to shut off the engine, pull out the key and open the hood,
get back inside and restart the engine.

If you yank on the stock T handle for the hood release from inside the truck, it does nothing. :-)
Very good for a chop top vehicle.

Thanks for keeping me in mind regarding the ABS system. A new monkey wrench has been thrown into
the mess; now the red brake light stays active while the yellow ABS desabled light is on too.
Doh!! Why could that be? I thought the biggest two symptoms would be the contact at the ebrake
lever, and the second being the connection at the master cylinder. Wiggling either wire doesn't
seem to do much.

Hmm... Time for schematics, continouty tests and trouble codes!!

Thanks for keeping me in mind,

Adam



Tim Turner wrote:

> Adam McLaughlin <kd6poc jps.net> wrote:
> > Do any of you rememeber the T handles hood lock that was available in
> > the late 1970s, earlyu 1980s full size Ford Vehicles?
>
> Yeah.. the PITA handles from the service side.  ;-)  Gotta remove the key from
> the ignition, unlock the release, re-insert the key in the ignition to work on
> it....  Not as annoying as "wheel locks" since the key is handy but pretty
> close.
>
> > Can I get something like that for my chop top bronco 2?
>
> I would think the F-Series cable would work fine; might need to make a loop in
> the cable somewhere if it's longer.
>
> > and I would like to deter amateur thieves from getting inside the hood,
> > since the engine is where I spent a lot of my money and time.
>
> Well... the suggested hood pins would work better if used with locks.  It's
> pretty easy to release (most?) hoods from the outside by snaking your arm up
> and grabbing the cable housing near the radiator support then yanking it.
> Messes up the cable, but for theft (or in my case to get it open to *replace*
> the cable) who cares?  I don't recall if the B-II is 'easily' yanked, but it
> doesn't stand out in my mind as one of the vehicles that I've fought to get
> open with a broken cable.  (FWD Buick Park Ave. stands out FWIW..)  A hooked
> pick works well for releasing the latch as well but takes a bit more
> finesse/time that 'amatuer' theives might be lacking
>
> Tim
>
> PS: Haven't forgotten the ABS note; buried at work with re-paving the parking
> lot going on outside and me trying to re-work the air lines along the roof.
> :-(
>
> TT
>


------------------------------

End of small-list Digest V2000 #174
*********************************** ....


To access the rest of this feature you must be a logged in Registered User Of Ford Truck Enthusiasts

Registration is free, easy and gives you access to more features.
If you are not registered, click here to register.
If you are already registered, you can login here.

If you are already logged in and are seeing this message, your web browser is blocking session cookies. Change your browser cookie settings to allow session cookies.




Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Policy - Jobs

This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. Ford is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.