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Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 23:04:08 -0400 (EDT)
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Subject: small-list Digest V2000 #163
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small-list Digest Tue, 03 Oct 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 163

In This Issue:
Re: [Synthetic Oil]
Re: Hotter Spark
Re: Hotter Spark
Re: Hotter Spark
Re: [Synthetic Oil]
Re: [Synthetic Oil]
Re: [Synthetic Oil]
Re: [Synthetic Oil]] & Av oil
Re: Computerized reminders
Aerostar rear window seal

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "James Steele" <stryker60 hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Synthetic Oil]
Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 22:08:40 CDT


.  I can see it's benefits but I don't think I'm willing to spend $4.50 a
quart on it.

Dan, have you checked "Wallyworld" (Wal-mart)?  I usually find the 5 quart
jug of Mobil 1 (and sometimes other brands) for about $16.
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------------------------------

From: "Joe M" <merchjo bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Hotter Spark
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 23:33:55 -0400

Rick

I am using a DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) from Jacobs electronics (
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jacobselectronics.com/EnergyPaksPg2.htm ).  The unit does help in
lower end power were it has a flatter curve.  The biggest benefit is that it
solved my pinging problems (older posts) and I now get 21MPG city on my 99
Ranger XLT supercab that's a 4x4 and has the off-road package (this is up
from 16-17).  Nice thing is that is plugs into the existing wire harness and
it can be disconnected in about a min if there was a problem.

They do say I should be able to open my gaps on my plus to .060, but I only
went to .050 as I did not want to burn out my coil.

Hope that helps.


-----Original Message-----
From: small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of Sargent Rick
Sent: Thursday, September 28, 2000 3:11 PM
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [small-list] Hotter Spark


I'm looking for a little added performance from my 93
4.0 V6.  I added a K&N filter and noticed a little
better performance right away.  I have read numerous
letters and posts concerning the ignition chips, and
there seems to be a concensus that in order to get the
most out of a chip that one must also change exhausts,
headers, etc.
I'm considering adding an MDS (multiple spark
discharge) system to provide hotter (and multiple)
sparks.  I've heard that this will give the best all
around performance increase for a stock engine.  Any comments?

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Oct 2000 23:49:22 -0400
From: David Cooley <n5xmt triad.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Hotter Spark

I've got an Explorer Eddie Bauer with the 5.0L V8 and AWD that stock got
19-20 MPG highway, 16 around town...
With Headers, Magnaflow muffler and 3" tailpipe, I now get 22-23 highway
and 17 around town...
Stock DIS calls for .054 plug gap.


At 11:33 PM 10/3/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Rick
>
>I am using a DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) from Jacobs electronics (
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jacobselectronics.com/EnergyPaksPg2.htm ).  The unit does help in
>lower end power were it has a flatter curve.  The biggest benefit is that it
>solved my pinging problems (older posts) and I now get 21MPG city on my 99
>Ranger XLT supercab that's a 4x4 and has the off-road package (this is up
>from 16-17).  Nice thing is that is plugs into the existing wire harness and
>it can be disconnected in about a min if there was a problem.
>
>They do say I should be able to open my gaps on my plus to .060, but I only
>went to .050 as I did not want to burn out my coil.


------------------------------

Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 00:02:59 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: Re: Fog Lights
From: Sandman <sandmanx pdq.net>

Check this link out: http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://4xFord.50megs.com/ .  Looks like they are
about $28 a piece according to that page.


On Tue, 3 Oct 2000, Buck Shoff wrote:

> My 94 Ranger has the round factory fog lights under the front bumper.
> Both lenses are broken.  Does anyone know of a place to get the lights
> themselves. The Ford dealer priced the assembly at $150 to $190 each.  I
> think it is the same light they put on some Fox Mustangs.  Thanks.
> Buck Shoff
> =============================================================
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> Please remove this footer when replying.
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------------------------------

From: "Joe M" <merchjo bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Hotter Spark
Date: Tue, 3 Oct 2000 23:53:27 -0400

Mine would get better if it did not have the 4.1 gears.  I will try the .054
gap and see if it does anything.

-----Original Message-----
From: small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com
[mailto:small-list-bounce ford-trucks.com]On Behalf Of David Cooley
Sent: Tuesday, October 03, 2000 11:49 PM
To: small-list ford-trucks.com
Subject: [small-list] Re: Hotter Spark


I've got an Explorer Eddie Bauer with the 5.0L V8 and AWD that stock got
19-20 MPG highway, 16 around town...
With Headers, Magnaflow muffler and 3" tailpipe, I now get 22-23 highway
and 17 around town...
Stock DIS calls for .054 plug gap.


At 11:33 PM 10/3/2000 -0400, you wrote:
>Rick
>
>I am using a DIS (Distributorless Ignition System) from Jacobs electronics
(
>http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.jacobselectronics.com/EnergyPaksPg2.htm ).  The unit does help
in
>lower end power were it has a flatter curve.  The biggest benefit is that
it
>solved my pinging problems (older posts) and I now get 21MPG city on my 99
>Ranger XLT supercab that's a 4x4 and has the off-road package (this is up
>from 16-17).  Nice thing is that is plugs into the existing wire harness
and
>it can be disconnected in about a min if there was a problem.
>
>They do say I should be able to open my gaps on my plus to .060, but I only
>went to .050 as I did not want to burn out my coil.

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To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: Bolte Brent <Brent.Bolte kone.com>
Subject: Re: [Synthetic Oil]
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 10:32:48 -0400

Yes, a straight weight conventional oil (which is what they would
probably use in an aircraft engine) will eventually "wear out" as
well, but that generally takes a heck of a long time (and the oil
would have probably been changed as a general maintenance item
long before that would occur anyway).  In modern multi-weight
oils like we use in automobile engines, conventional or synthetic,
a viscosity improver is added to the base weight oil to prevent the
oil from thinning as much as it warms up.  These viscosity improvers
are made up of polymer strands that coil up when cold and allow the
oil to perform like the normal base weight oil (in a 5W-30 that would
be the 5 weight).  Once the oil starts to heat up, these polymer
substances uncoil into long strands that prevent the oil from thinning
out as much as it normally would and makes it act like a higher
weight oil (in a 5W-30 this would be the 30 weight).  Over time, heat
and the shearing forces encountered in bearing areas cause these
polymer strands to break apart and lose their ability to form into long
strands.  Once broken, they can no longer do their job of preventing
the oil from thinning out at high temperatures (hence the term "oil
breakdown").  Normal conventional oil has to have a large amount
of viscosity improver added to it since it has a very high tendency
to thin out as temperature increases.  Synthetic oil (of which the
base stock is made from synthesized molecules which are by
design more stable over a larger temperature range) is "engineered"
to be more resistant to the tendency of thinning out as temperature
increases and therefore requires very little of the viscosity improver
additive to begin with (that's one of the reasons a synthetic oil
will last longer than a conventional oil because even if the viscosity
improver "breaks down" the oil still functions pretty much the same).
Anyhow, to make a long story short, when you hear somebody say
that a modern day oil is "worn out" or "broken down", its not the
base oil that has failed, it is the viscosity improver that has failed.
The base oil will still "protect" and lubricate your engine, but only
as well as if you had a straight weight oil of the lower of the two
weight numbers in the engine.

This site has a pretty good write up on oil specs if you would like
to check it out:  http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html

Believe me having grown up with a father that worked in the
engineering department of a small Midwestern oil company
that custom "designed" oils for use in the automotive, trucking,
racing, and marine industries I learned an awful lot about all
types of lubricating oils.  While working there in high school
and while going to college I also got to attend many "oil design"
classes put on by companies such as Amoco, Texaco, Conoco,
and Sunoco (and after all that, I became a Computer Science
major, go figure).

On Tue, 03 Oct 2000 Buck Shoff wrote:

> Some years ago, I had a conversation with an engineer
> involved with piston aircraft engines.  He said that
> the parts working against the oil inside an engine had
> a shearing or tearing effect on the long stringy oil
> molecule.  This tearing would shorten the individual
> molecules, thus lowering the viscosity.  According to
> him, oil does "wear out".  We were talking about
> conventional oil, not synthetic.  Buck Shoff

>Bolte Brent wrote:
>>
>> You are correct, it is the additives that "break down" in
>> multi-weight oils.


This message has been checked by KONE Corporation for the presence of computer viruses

------------------------------

From: Bolte Brent <Brent.Bolte kone.com>
Subject: Re: [Synthetic Oil]
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 17:18:18 -0400

In both of my Explorer manuals Ford recommends oil changes
at 7500 miles (under normal driving conditions).  This
would appear to be the same for both the V6 and V8 engines.
Mercury may indicate something different in the owners
manual for the Mountaineer (which would be strange, but
I've never looked at a manual for a Mountaineer).  The
fact that the console computer is set up for 7500 miles
kind of indicates that Ford must still be using that as
their recommended change interval for the Explorer even
if Mercury is telling their owners something different.

On Tue, 3 Oct 2000 Hans Luckoff wrote:

> Brent,  Where does it say to change oil every 7500 miles,
> my Mountaineer says 3000 or 5000 miles, except for the
> computer in the console witch looks like is set up for
> 7500 mile oil change.  Hans

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------------------------------

From: "Mike Haight" <mhaight1 home.com>
Subject: Re: [Synthetic Oil]
Date: Wed, 4 Oct 2000 17:59:20 -0400

My dealer gave me free maintenance, including oil changes, lubes, tire
rotations, etc for the first 20K miles, as part of my new vehicle
purchase, besides the good price I got on the deal.  Anyway, they
recommended oil changes at 5K miles, unless I was going to be driving
the vehicle as a Taxi Cab, Pizza Delivery, or constant dusty/dirty/wet
conditions off road in which case they would recommend oil changes at
3K miles.  The console is set for 7500 mile changes however you can
change that when you reset it at an oil change to 80%, which is close
to the 5K range or set it to 50% which is close to the 3K range for
oil changes.   If you read your manual it should tell you that
information.  Good Luck!

 Take Care and
   Have a Good Day.
     CUL, Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: "Bolte Brent" <Brent.Bolte kone.com>
To: <small-list ford-trucks.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 04, 2000 5:18 PM
Subject: [small-list] Re: [Synthetic Oil]


> In both of my Explorer manuals Ford recommends oil changes
> at 7500 miles (under normal driving conditions).  This
> would appear to be the same for both the V6 and V8 engines.
> Mercury may indicate something different in the owners
> manual for the Mountaineer (which would be strange, but
> I've never looked at a manual for a Mountaineer).  The
> fact that the console computer is set up for 7500 miles
> kind of indicates that Ford must still be using that as
> their recommended change interval for the Explorer even
> if Mercury is telling their owners something different.
>
> On Tue, 3 Oct 2000 Hans Luckoff wrote:
>
> > Brent,  Where does it say to change oil every 7500 miles,
> > my Mountaineer says 3000 or 5000 miles, except for the
> > computer in the console witch looks like is set up for
> > 7500 mile oil change.  Hans
>
> This message has been checked by KONE Corporation for the presence
of computer viruses
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date:  4 Oct 00 20:15:01 EDT
From: Tim Turner <ManicMechanicNC netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Synthetic Oil]] & Av oil

Bolte Brent <Brent.Bolte kone.com> wrote:

> Yes, a straight weight conventional oil (which is what they would
> probably use in an aircraft engine)

The only concrete example I have is my fathers restored Piper PA-12 from the
late '40s, but that gets a straight oil; I believe 40 winter & 50 summer.  4
Cylinder air cooled Lycoming 'Flat-four' design.

> will eventually "wear out" as
> well, but that generally takes a heck of a long time (and the oil
> would have probably been changed as a general maintenance item
> long before that would occur anyway).

'X' number of hours on the engine; one of the many reasons I'll eventually get
around to installing an hour meter on the B-II.  Hours truly are a better
indicator than mileage IMHO.  (Especially for traffic, off-road, delivery or
often idling.)

Tim





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------------------------------

Date:  4 Oct 00 22:00:30 EDT
From: Tim Turner <ManicMechanicNC netscape.net>
Subject: Re: Computerized reminders

Bolte Brent <Brent.Bolte kone.com> wrote:

> the console computer is set up for 7500 miles

*IF* the set-up is similar to the Jheap Cherokee the interval is settable from
2000-9000 depending on your preference with a factory default of 7500.  At the
shop after an oil change on the Jeeps I'll set it to 3000 to match the sticker
on the windshield; haven't played with the Ford units enough to know.  (FWIW
the Jeep unit is easily changed to different languages including Italian;
always tempted to change that while I'm there.)  ;-)

Tim


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 04 Oct 2000 20:59:49 -0700
From: Dan Wilson <dxwilson ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Aerostar rear window seal

Hi Everyone

I need to replace the weatherstripping around the rear door of my 95
Aerostar before it starts raining.  This is the part that is attached to
the body, not on the door itself.  Has anybody else done this?  Where did
you find the weatherstripping?  Any success stories using the universal
ones?  Thanks.

-Dan Wilson
mailto:dxwilson ucdavis.edu


------------------------------
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