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small-list Digest Thu, 28 Sep 2000 Volume: 2000  Issue: 159

In This Issue:
Re: Subject: Hotter Spark vs NO spark!
[Fwd: NJ mechanic recommendations - Explorer tuneup]
Re: Subject: Hotter Spark vs NO spark!
regarding the no spark situation
Re: Subject: Hotter Spark vs NO spark!
Baby Bronco comes home

----------------------------------------------------------------------

From: "Keith Christensen" <radiopro kendra.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Hotter Spark vs NO spark!
Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 21:12:54 -0700

Are some of you guys'n'gals  psychic??

This post almost made me go off the deep edge .   Right now I wish I
had  "any/enough" spark,  my B II is sitting at work in the parking
lot "without spark"..... nothing out of the coil. It ran fine
getting to work, but refuses to start now. Ain't battery.  The first
thing that tipped me to "nospark" was how energetically it cranked,
as the EIS usually fires on the first turn and slows the cranking
down by partial firing.

That "deep edge " was just in fun<g> ..

Even as an electronic tech and a fair mechanic  , it's got me PO'ed!
Unfortunately I don't have a codereader or a decent wiring book..
(Chilton's manuals suck). I could probably get it right with decent
docs and a portable o'scope and DVM plus codereader.

My "shadetree system" on electronic ignition is:
Step One : (in this case "easiest" )
   Replace the cheapest and/or most accessible part first. In this
case, it was the coil ... but that's not it. Using an ohmmeter isn't
the best test, but it at least told me that I had primary and
secondary coils and that neither were shorted to each other or the
frame , I replaced it anyway, it was original Ford from 88 by
datecodes. . The new Niehoff coil ohm'ed out OK and does have
apparently better looking HV "crockery", having a ceramic insulator
on the HV lead .

(My diagnostics on this was using the coil output and stuffing a
new lawnmower sparkplug  in the coil wire .. no spark!  Amazing what
you find in the glovebox/toolbox some times!)

BTW, the EFI probably works , I get raw gas smell from the exhaust
pipe when cranking.

So now I'm off to Step Two:
(and asking if anybody's got better ideas ??)

Now I'm going to shift to "cheapest" next part (not necessarily
easiest) which is the sensor in the distributer...
(and hoping to hell that works )

Step Two-and-a-half:
Plain old wires (not plugwires, stuff in the harness, connectors
etc) are somewhat out here.  If it was a broken wire/connector, it
would probably died while I was moving/driving.. those failures are
usually "mechanical' as it takes vibrations/impacts to see the
failure.  My drive to work definitely qualifies there!!  I'll still
go back and eyeball/ohm out if need be.


Step Three's the killer..
Now I'm into the "nodocs zone"!!   Also the 'expensive zone'..
What's left?  Ugly silver boxes with cheezy 'puters and such inside?
Some screwball sensor??

*HALLP*




------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 00:34:47 -0400
From: George Kowal <gkowal earthlink.net>
Subject: [Fwd: NJ mechanic recommendations - Explorer tuneup]




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To: small-list ford-trucks.com,
"Raymond C. Gray" <rgray telcordia.com>
Subject: Re: [small-list] NJ mechanic recommendations - Explorer tuneup
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"Raymond C. Gray" wrote:

> My 1994 Ford Explorer is in serious need of a tuneup.  Symptoms:  valve ping on
> uphills, occasional hesitation on acceleration.
>
> Can anyone recommend a mechanic in the North/Central Jersey area...Somerville,
> Bridgewater or nearby?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ray

My company's office is in Somerset, and we send all our fleet and company cars to a
shop nearby in Middlesex, NJ.
It's not too far from I-287 and South of US 22. The place is called Auto Shop of
Middlesex, 211 Lincoln Boulevard and there phone # lists as 732-469-0025.

I also have known a couple of brothers who are  mechanics for decades who operate a
shop in Hillside on US 22. It's on the Eastbound side of US 22, just past the
Garden State Pkwy Rt 82 interchange and just past the next interchange which is
Vauxhall Rd. As you come down a hill on 22, they are on the right near the bottom
of the hill. This place is called Intercar, and you'll see vans cars and trucks for
sale, but they originally have been a service station for a long time. Tony is the
head mechanic there assisted by a few others. The phone # is 908-687-4540.

I own a 94 Ford Explorer and have about 215,000 miles on it so far with very few
problems. Just curious if your "check engine" light ever comes on. If it does, then
there is a relatively simple procedure to read the fault code so you can get an
idea of what is wrong and where to look. You just insert a short jumper wire or
even a paper clip into 2 certain places on a connector near the fuse box under the
hood, then you can read the code by counting the flashes on the dashboard check
engine light.

There's a website online that specifies exactly what 2 points to connect together
and what the different number codes mean.
Let me know if you need the URL for that website.
One of the more common problems on that truck is that you may have to replace the
EGR sensor, which is a very easy thing to do, costs about $45 for a new one, and
takes literally about 1 or 2 minutes to change. You will get a certain code, off
the top of my head it's something like 332, if this is bad.

Anyway, it costs relatively nothing to scan your computer first and see if you can
get a clue as to what's up.

George Kowal




------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Sep 2000 21:41:24 +0100
From: Adam McLaughlin <kd6poc jps.net>
Subject: Re: Subject: Hotter Spark vs NO spark!

I have the same problem with my 1988 B2. It is intermittant, though. let
me know what you find out.

Adam

Keith Christensen wrote:

> Are some of you guys'n'gals  psychic??
>
> This post almost made me go off the deep edge .   Right now I wish I
> had  "any/enough" spark,  my B II is sitting at work in the parking
> lot "without spark"..... nothing out of the coil. It ran fine
> getting to work, but refuses to start now. Ain't battery.  The first
> thing that tipped me to "nospark" was how energetically it cranked,
> as the EIS usually fires on the first turn and slows the cranking
> down by partial firing.
>
> That "deep edge " was just in fun<g> ..
>
> Even as an electronic tech and a fair mechanic  , it's got me PO'ed!
> Unfortunately I don't have a codereader or a decent wiring book..
> (Chilton's manuals suck). I could probably get it right with decent
> docs and a portable o'scope and DVM plus codereader.
>
> My "shadetree system" on electronic ignition is:
> Step One : (in this case "easiest" )
>     Replace the cheapest and/or most accessible part first. In this
> case, it was the coil ... but that's not it. Using an ohmmeter isn't
> the best test, but it at least told me that I had primary and
> secondary coils and that neither were shorted to each other or the
> frame , I replaced it anyway, it was original Ford from 88 by
> datecodes. . The new Niehoff coil ohm'ed out OK and does have
> apparently better looking HV "crockery", having a ceramic insulator
> on the HV lead .
>
> (My diagnostics on this was using the coil output and stuffing a
> new lawnmower sparkplug  in the coil wire .. no spark!  Amazing what
> you find in the glovebox/toolbox some times!)
>
> BTW, the EFI probably works , I get raw gas smell from the exhaust
> pipe when cranking.
>
> So now I'm off to Step Two:
> (and asking if anybody's got better ideas ??)
>
> Now I'm going to shift to "cheapest" next part (not necessarily
> easiest) which is the sensor in the distributer...
> (and hoping to hell that works )
>
> Step Two-and-a-half:
> Plain old wires (not plugwires, stuff in the harness, connectors
> etc) are somewhat out here.  If it was a broken wire/connector, it
> would probably died while I was moving/driving.. those failures are
> usually "mechanical' as it takes vibrations/impacts to see the
> failure.  My drive to work definitely qualifies there!!  I'll still
> go back and eyeball/ohm out if need be.
>
> Step Three's the killer..
> Now I'm into the "nodocs zone"!!   Also the 'expensive zone'..
> What's left?  Ugly silver boxes with cheezy 'puters and such inside?
> Some screwball sensor??
>
> *HALLP*
>
> =============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:   www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.


------------------------------

From: "Stephen Bozzone" <editor rockzone.com>
Subject: regarding the no spark situation
Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 01:21:56 -0400


You might want to check the computer's ground to the battery... mine has slipped out a few times causing a stall and no spark situation.

Good luck,
Steve


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 05:45:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Chuck Badger <chuckbadger yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Subject: Hotter Spark vs NO spark!

You might want to have the TFI sensor checked.  Most
autoparts places can check it for you for free.  It is
located on the backside of the distributor.  Mine went
out, had a no spark condition, coil etc., checked
good.  Just make sure when you replace the TFI sensor
you put plenty of heat grease on it as heat is one
thing that will kill the TFI sensor early.

Chuck


--- Keith Christensen <radiopro kendra.com> wrote:
> Are some of you guys'n'gals  psychic??
>
> This post almost made me go off the deep edge .
> Right now I wish I
> had  "any/enough" spark,  my B II is sitting at work
> in the parking
> lot "without spark"..... nothing out of the coil. It
> ran fine
> getting to work, but refuses to start now. Ain't
> battery.  The first
> thing that tipped me to "nospark" was how
> energetically it cranked,
> as the EIS usually fires on the first turn and slows
> the cranking
> down by partial firing.
>
> That "deep edge " was just in fun<g> ..
>
> Even as an electronic tech and a fair mechanic  ,
> it's got me PO'ed!
> Unfortunately I don't have a codereader or a decent
> wiring book..
> (Chilton's manuals suck). I could probably get it
> right with decent
> docs and a portable o'scope and DVM plus codereader.
>
> My "shadetree system" on electronic ignition is:
> Step One : (in this case "easiest" )
>     Replace the cheapest and/or most accessible part
> first. In this
> case, it was the coil ... but that's not it. Using
> an ohmmeter isn't
> the best test, but it at least told me that I had
> primary and
> secondary coils and that neither were shorted to
> each other or the
> frame , I replaced it anyway, it was original Ford
> from 88 by
> datecodes. . The new Niehoff coil ohm'ed out OK and
> does have
> apparently better looking HV "crockery", having a
> ceramic insulator
> on the HV lead .
>
> (My diagnostics on this was using the coil output
> and stuffing a
> new lawnmower sparkplug  in the coil wire .. no
> spark!  Amazing what
> you find in the glovebox/toolbox some times!)
>
> BTW, the EFI probably works , I get raw gas smell
> from the exhaust
> pipe when cranking.
>
> So now I'm off to Step Two:
> (and asking if anybody's got better ideas ??)
>
> Now I'm going to shift to "cheapest" next part (not
> necessarily
> easiest) which is the sensor in the distributer...
> (and hoping to hell that works )
>
> Step Two-and-a-half:
> Plain old wires (not plugwires, stuff in the
> harness, connectors
> etc) are somewhat out here.  If it was a broken
> wire/connector, it
> would probably died while I was moving/driving..
> those failures are
> usually "mechanical' as it takes vibrations/impacts
> to see the
> failure.  My drive to work definitely qualifies
> there!!  I'll still
> go back and eyeball/ohm out if need be.
>
>
> Step Three's the killer..
> Now I'm into the "nodocs zone"!!   Also the
> 'expensive zone'..
> What's left?  Ugly silver boxes with cheezy 'puters
> and such inside?
> Some screwball sensor??
>
> *HALLP*
>
>
>
>
=============================================================
> To  unsubscribe:
> www.ford-trucks.com/mailinglist.html#item3
> Please remove this footer when replying.
>


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Sep 2000 19:46:36 +0100
From: Adam McLaughlin <kd6poc jps.net>
Subject: Baby Bronco comes home

Well, she is back from the auto shop. If anyone remembers, I chopped the
top, and took it to the auto body shop to have them clean it up, and
make it look totally factory.

$900 later, she has been cut, capped, molded, smoothed welded and spot
painted.

This is so well done, it looks magnanimous. It just feels beautiful when
I am driving around. It looks... Very custom. Pics coming soon.

Right now, I have to bring down the tailgate to the auto body shop for
them to paint the outside for me, as I have already gotten the inside
done with herculiner to match the rest of the interior floor.

I kid you not, this is so beautiful I would snap photos now if I could
stop looking at it!!

As for now, I will be shoping for a toneaou cover to be made. I have to
get ready for the winter months ahead, you know.A truck box also needs
to be conjured or fabbed up.

Adam


------------------------------

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