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small-list-digest Thursday, December 2 1999 Volume 03 : Number 315



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

AW: AW: AW: FTE Small - Re: Scanners
RE: FTE Small - creaking and moaning
Re: AW: AW: AW: FTE Small - Re: Scanners
FTE Small - Creaking and Moaning: Weatherstrip
FTE Small - Seat Frame
FTE Small - Scanners
FTE Small - Slave cylinder bad?
RE: FTE Small - Slave cylinder bad?
FTE Small - 2000 Explorer Sport Vibration
Re: FTE Small - 2000 Explorer Sport Vibration
Re: FTE Small - creaking and moaning
Re: FTE Small - creaking and moaning
Re: FTE Small - creaking and moaning
Re: FTE Small - Scanners
AW: FTE Small - Scanners

=======================================================================

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 12:04:45 +0100
From: ThomasUcen premiereworld.de
Subject: AW: AW: AW: FTE Small - Re: Scanners

Hmm, I have to try this. What do you mean with "goose the throttle"?

Tom

- -------------------
Dave Slotter wrote:

That's correct. There is also a point where you see a single flash of
light - this is the computer's request for you to goose the throttle.
At this time it is checking several things, including, but not
limited to the knock sensor, throttle position sensor and exhaust gas
oxygen sensor.

>>You read the KOEO (engine off) and KOER (engine running) codes
>>exactly the same way.

- -Dave
- -
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 06:45:32 -0800
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - creaking and moaning

Tom, I believe that the Rancho "traction bars" or "torque arms" (I've heard
them referred to both ways) are available as far as I know. It was probably
a few years ago that I had them, but, I just went to my local off road shop
(4 wheel parts wholesalers) and they ordered them and installed them for me.
I had them because I wanted a customized look, and I figured that they would
complement the Rancho lift kit on the front of my 94 Ranger. They began
creaking when the frame/body flexed, and I guess I just got tired of them.
They also cut down on your ground clearance.
The bars are each mounted to the rear axle, and yes, they hang below the
axle. My axle is and has always been below the leaf spring packs. There is
a bracket that mounts to the axle with U bolts, and it was located between
the shock mount on the axle and the spring pack, if memory serves me
correctly. For the front end of the bars, the shop simply drilled a holes
in the frame, below the cab, for the brackets. I also recall that they had
to undo the gas tank temporarily so as to be able to move it over to make
room for tools and whatnot.
Since those bars came off, I went to Autofab in Santee, CA, and did
something way more drastic. Autofab has these types of bars, however, they
are probably less than 2 feet in length and they are specifically designed
for the Ranger application. These bars take into account all the ranges of
movement of the Ranger axle. They do not creak. This was done to
complement my Ranger's rear end. The axle was trussed with a bar welded
over the top of the axle and the springs are from National Spring Co. There
are limit staps and Bilstein shocks to control movement. These shorter bars
restrict the axle from moving in any direction other than up and down.
Autofab calls this a "2 link" setup. My rear end has about 16 inches of
travel from all of this and although I rarely use all that travel potential,
it works and feels great to drive.

> ----------
> From: Tom Ewing[SMTP:ewing napanet.net]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 30, 1999 10:13 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: Re: FTE Small - creaking and moaning
>
> Ray. You mentioned that you once had some type of Rancho "traction bars"
> mounted from your frame to the rear axle housing near the shock mounts?
> Do
> you know if these are still available. I haven't seen a Rancho catalog
> for
> awhile I guess, but I don't remember seeing such an item being offered
> anywhere else. I've got a 92 2.3L Ranger that I use at the drags pretty
> regularly and I get a pretty good amount of wheel hop at launch, but the
> customary traction bars such as slappers and the current traction bars
> that
> I see offered all need the rear axle housing to be above the leaf springs.
> My axle like other 92's is below the leaf springs, so the current popular
> bolt ons-won't. You describe the Rancho device as going to the axle
> housing
> near the shock mount? Is that right? Am I interpreting this correctly?
> Are they still available? Moving the axle housing above the leaf springs
> on
> my truck with mono springs, a lowering kit etc would
> not be all that easy.
>
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>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 09:51:21 -0500
From: Dave Slotter
Subject: Re: AW: AW: AW: FTE Small - Re: Scanners

At 12:04 PM +0100 12/1/99, ThomasUcen premiereworld.de wrote:
>Hmm, I have to try this. What do you mean with "goose the throttle"?
>
>Tom

Put the pedal to the metal!

(just for a second)

- -Dave
- --

ICQ# 16458879 AOL/AIM ID: "Mac XR"
1986 Ford Bronco II Gray Manual 2.9 V6 125K Pittsburgh PA

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:17:03 -0800
From: rgstein pacbell.net
Subject: FTE Small - Creaking and Moaning: Weatherstrip

Stephen Donaldson wroter ---------------------------------------------

This is a good test and leads me to another related question: why did
Ford use a material to make the outter weather stripping that would
remove the paint from the top edge of my doors?

Me -------------------------------------------------------------------
Well, 'cause Ford is stupid. Not that other mfrs are much better.

Stephen --------------------------------------------------------------

It is because of this body flexing
during driving that causes the tops of the doors to rub against the
stripping.

Me ----------------------------------------------------------------

Fascinating. Now that you mention it, I've noticed this on perhaps all
the cars I've ever owned. Never thought about it. Makes perfect sense.


Stephen -----------------------------------------------------------

I noticed on my buddy's 96 Explorer that Ford went to a soft
rubber stripping that flexes with the movements of the body against the
doors. Anybody have any suggestions? I've lubed the weather stripping
with silicone gel, and that at least silenced the squeeks...

Me ----------------------------------------------------------------

Silicone is excellent for lubricating rubber or plastic to each other or
metal. Never for metal to metal.

My refrigerator manufacturer advises Petroleum Jelly (Vaseline) for the
gaskets.

Finally, the door gaskets of my '92 Aerostar are shaped like a hollow
tube, which appears to be simply glued to the door jamb. I've seen this
material in the JC Whitney catalog. This may do the trick for you,
although I did find mine ripped. I did a temp. repair with contact
cement. But I think I'll buy a replacement, and this time, I'll lube
it. Thanks for bringing this up.

Richard


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:08:43 -0800
From: rgstein pacbell.net
Subject: FTE Small - Seat Frame

Patrick DuPont wrote --------------------------------------

I'm in need of a drivers seat frame for my '87 BRONCO II.

My reply --------------------------------------------------

Hey, Patrick: What are you up to?

I'm interested in modifying the seat of my '92 Aerostar to be more
ergonomic.

Richard


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 11:27:24 -0800
From: rgstein pacbell.net
Subject: FTE Small - Scanners

OK. Now, you've really got my interest going. Even though I have the
nifty digital Equus scanner, I'd really like to know how to play the
computer codes via a dashboard light.

Dave Slotter and Thomas Ucen have been discussing how to read the codes
off the dashboard "check engine" light (did I get this right so far?).

But what I need is the precise instructions about how to do this.

First:

"Connect the two pins and then START the engine instead
of just turning on the ignition?"

Which two pins, exactly? How do you connect them together?

"There is also a point where you see a single flash of
light - this is the computer's request for you to goose the throttle."

So, how do you start the whole sequence? Do you begin with static
(KOEO) computer playback? And then, what?

Can I do it on my '92 Aerostar?

Will this same method work for my friend's 80s Subaru?

Richard


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 18:46:40 -0500
From: Dwight Varnes
Subject: FTE Small - Slave cylinder bad?

Today in cold weather the clutch would not release fully unless pumped
repeatedly...I guess I know what that means. No visible leaks in lines,
reservoir or master cyl, pulled plug out of bellhousing and
slave/bearing assy shows some dampness, fluid level in reservoir almost
nil.
So, in eyeballing the situation it appears trans has to come out. Is
this right? What idiot designed this?? Haven't seen anything so
bassackwards since I worked on Saabs...
What other handy tips will I need to know? Bleeding a problem? Truck is
a 2.3 2wd as below...
Disgusted but still happy not to own a Nissan in PA
- --
Dwight Varnes, insurance appraiser and car nut
1970 124 Spider (restored, mostly)
1986 Audi Coupe GT (bigger engine STILL at machine shop)
1989 VW Jetta GLI 16v (the wife's ride, tired but loyal)
1965 Buick Skylark conv. (unrestored, for sale)
1990 Ford Ranger 2.3 twin spark (parts runner and daily commuter)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 15:54:16 -0800
From: Ray Scheidnes
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Slave cylinder bad?

Over the summer, my 94 Ranger blew the slave cylinder. I had no warning. I
was entering the freeway and between second and third gear, as I shifted, I
heard a pop, saw a puff of smoke in my rear view mirror, and lost all
pressure in the clutch. The truck was undriveable. Got towed to my dealer.
The job cost around $800, because, yes, the bell housing has to come off.
They suggested that the gaskets on top of the tranny (near the stick
shifter, I think) get replaced at that time, since everything would be taken
apart already - I agreed.

> ----------
> From: Dwight Varnes[SMTP:mxbreed lancnews.infi.net]
> Reply To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 3:46 PM
> To: small-list ford-trucks.com
> Subject: FTE Small - Slave cylinder bad?
>
> Today in cold weather the clutch would not release fully unless pumped
> repeatedly...I guess I know what that means. No visible leaks in lines,
> reservoir or master cyl, pulled plug out of bellhousing and
> slave/bearing assy shows some dampness, fluid level in reservoir almost
> nil.
> So, in eyeballing the situation it appears trans has to come out. Is
> this right? What idiot designed this?? Haven't seen anything so
> bassackwards since I worked on Saabs...
> What other handy tips will I need to know? Bleeding a problem? Truck is
> a 2.3 2wd as below...
> Disgusted but still happy not to own a Nissan in PA
> --
> Dwight Varnes, insurance appraiser and car nut
> 1970 124 Spider (restored, mostly)
> 1986 Audi Coupe GT (bigger engine STILL at machine shop)
> 1989 VW Jetta GLI 16v (the wife's ride, tired but loyal)
> 1965 Buick Skylark conv. (unrestored, for sale)
> 1990 Ford Ranger 2.3 twin spark (parts runner and daily commuter)
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 21:33:04 -0500
From: "Matthew Cooper"
Subject: FTE Small - 2000 Explorer Sport Vibration

I have a 2000 Explorer Sport with 500 miles on it. Since day one there has
been a grinding vibration that seems to eminate from the front right during
healthy acceleration from a stop. My dealer spent two days loosening and
re-tightening anything they could find, but the vibration is still there.
I'm stuck with a loaner, please help!

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 19:13:06 -0800
From: "Hans Luckoff"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - 2000 Explorer Sport Vibration

What's healthy acceleration? and at only 500 miles, shame on you. Hans
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Matthew Cooper
To:
Sent: Wednesday, December 01, 1999 6:33 PM
Subject: FTE Small - 2000 Explorer Sport Vibration


> I have a 2000 Explorer Sport with 500 miles on it. Since day one there has
> been a grinding vibration that seems to eminate from the front right
during
> healthy acceleration from a stop. My dealer spent two days loosening and
> re-tightening anything they could find, but the vibration is still there.
> I'm stuck with a loaner, please help!
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 21:18:36 -0600
From: alannorthstar mindspring.com
Subject: Re: FTE Small - creaking and moaning

On Tue, 30 Nov 1999 10:20:09 -0500, you wrote:

:At 09:08 AM 11/30/1999 -0600, you wrote:
:>On Mon, 29 Nov 1999 21:35:54 -0500, you wrote:
:>
:>:At 08:06 PM 11/29/99 -0600, you wrote:
:>:>I was told that the Explorer/Ranger frame was very flexible, while =
the
:>:>body was relatively rigid. Possibly the body-to-frame mounts are =
loose,
:>:>or the rubber isolators are worn?
:>:>
:>:Actually the opposite.
:>:The frame is pretty tough and inflexible while the body will flex. =
Check
:>:the body to frame mounts (Big rubber insulators underneath) as they =
can
:>:wear and allow the body to move on the frame more than it should.
:
:
:
:>Hmmm.
:>So, if the frame is so inflexible, what's causing anything to shift
:>and/or rub?
:>
:>I have a Ranger that is 1-1/2 years old, and it does that, too. I
:>surmise that the frame isn't really that inflexible, or it would keep
:>everything from moving and creaking and groaning!
:
:
:The body is mounted to the frame with LONG bolts and rubber donuts. The=
=20
:body can move around on a frame quite a bit. Ever tried to bend or flex=
a=20
:piece of 1/4" wall 5" x 3" heat treated steel tubing?
:That's your frame!
:
:
Yeah, but the wheels are mounted on the frame. When you turn into a
driveway, and, say, the left front wheel is being pushed up more than
the rest of the truck, that force is applied to the frame -- more on
the left front corner than on the rest. In fact, for a moment, the
truck is supported largely by left-front and right-rear wheels.=20

The only way you would hear any sounds that are generated between the
movement of the frame and the body is if the frame flexes enough to
cause that shifting. If the frame is so rigid, I don't think you'd
hear anything. So, my take on this is that the frame is flexing a
bit.=20

Actually, I don't know how you could prevent a little flexing, so I
suppose the careful design of the body mounting pads, etc., it the art
which prevents noises. Or not...

Later,
Alan
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 01 Dec 1999 21:10:29 -0800
From: Adam McLaughlin
Subject: Re: FTE Small - creaking and moaning

Talk to James Duff about your traction bars. I just got some two weeks ago for
my 88 bronco ii, and they are great!! Big difference, and they were only $49.95.
On the BII it is necessary to drill six holes, and they go on the u bolt plate
on top of the axle, to the front spring hanger.

Adam

Tom Ewing wrote:

> Ray. You mentioned that you once had some type of Rancho "traction bars"
> mounted from your frame to the rear axle housing near the shock mounts? Do
> you know if these are still available. I haven't seen a Rancho catalog for
> awhile I guess, but I don't remember seeing such an item being offered
> anywhere else. I've got a 92 2.3L Ranger that I use at the drags pretty
> regularly and I get a pretty good amount of wheel hop at launch, but the
> customary traction bars such as slappers and the current traction bars that
> I see offered all need the rear axle housing to be above the leaf springs.
> My axle like other 92's is below the leaf springs, so the current popular
> bolt ons-won't. You describe the Rancho device as going to the axle housing
> near the shock mount? Is that right? Am I interpreting this correctly?
> Are they still available? Moving the axle housing above the leaf springs on
> my truck with mono springs, a lowering kit etc would
> not be all that easy.
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 1 Dec 1999 22:36:58 -0800
From: "Tom Ewing"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - creaking and moaning

Ray. Thanks for the info. Tom

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 02 Dec 1999 02:46:05 -0500
From: George Kowal
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Scanners

rgstein pacbell.net wrote:

> OK. Now, you've really got my interest going. Even though I have the
> nifty digital Equus scanner, I'd really like to know how to play the
> computer codes via a dashboard light.
>
> Dave Slotter and Thomas Ucen have been discussing how to read the codes
> off the dashboard "check engine" light (did I get this right so far?).
>
> But what I need is the precise instructions about how to do this.

There's a helpful site on the web at
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html

This should give you the particulars as to which wires to jump, codes, and
how to perform the test.
George K. KG2KC


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 2 Dec 1999 09:23:45 +0100
From: ThomasUcen premiereworld.de
Subject: AW: FTE Small - Scanners

When I bought my Aerostar in N.H., I also bought a ton of books - Helm's
shop manuals, Chilton's and a book on ignition and emission systems by Wells
(Sure you can..). This little Wells book has a good description of the
connectors and lists all the codes for the big three.
So far, I've only tried the Key On - Engine Off method. This weekend, I'll
try the same with the engine running. If it works on my '93 Aerostar, it
should definitely work on the '92 model (was that the first year with the
modified design?)

Tom
1993 Aerostar 3.0L
Munich, Germany

- -----
rgstein pacbell.net wrote:

OK. Now, you've really got my interest going. Even though I have the
nifty digital Equus scanner, I'd really like to know how to play the
computer codes via a dashboard light.

Dave Slotter and Thomas Ucen have been discussing how to read the codes
off the dashboard "check engine" light (did I get this right so far?).

But what I need is the precise instructions about how to do this.

First:

"Connect the two pins and then START the engine instead....

---

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