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Subject: small-list-digest V3 #297
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small-list-digest Saturday, November 13 1999 Volume 03 : Number 297



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Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

FTE Small - Brake drums
FTE Small - RE: Aerostar questions
FTE Small - RE: Aerostar Likes/Dislikes
RE: FTE Small - Brake Drums
FTE Small - Door Adjar warning FIXED!!!
Re: FTE Small - Door Adjar warning FIXED!!!
FTE Small - Aerostar questions
FTE Small - RE: aerostar questions
FTE Small - ADMIN: the SPAM
FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions
Re: FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions
Re: FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions
FTE Small - Reliable Motors
Re: FTE Small - Brake Drums
Re: FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions
Re: FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions

=======================================================================

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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 03:52:55 PST
From: "David Goodwin"
Subject: FTE Small - Brake drums


How do you get the drumscover off of the brake shoes?
Is there some kind of tool that I need to get this done?

Unless it is seized up real bad, or you have deep grooves cut into your
drums, a good sharp rap with a dead blow to the side of the drum while
pulling it towards you should release it.


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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 06:59:24 PST
From: "H. Lee Purvis"
Subject: FTE Small - RE: Aerostar questions

I have an '88 with 158K miles and really like it. The trouble area seem to
be the automatic transmission (A4LD). The 3.0 liter engine in mine is still
going strong, not burning any oil, and like Tom said is not fun to work on.
I agree with the good points he made. I happen to think the 3.0 has good
power for the States, but definiely not for the Autobahn! I'm getting 18-22
mpg depending on how fast I push it. Overall, I'm very satisfied with mine
and pushing for 200K.


Lee

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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 09:40:21 -0000
From: "Gary Snook"
Subject: FTE Small - RE: Aerostar Likes/Dislikes

I have owned 2 Aeros, got both new and have driven 2 more company owned
Aeros. Company owned were 87 and 92 3.0. Never let me down and drove many
miles. My own have been a 92 3.0 XLT extended, quad capt chairs, and dual
air and a 97 (same as 92) with the 4.0. The 3.0 gave consistant 20+ MPG.
The 4.0 gives 18+ MPG. 97 was the last year for Aerostars. My 92 passed on
to my son who still owns it. I have no significant problems with any of the
Aeros I have driven or owned. I would buy another if they still made them!
Hope this will help with your decission.

Gary

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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 13:19:56 -0600
From: Mike Harms
Subject: RE: FTE Small - Brake Drums

It's almost a certain bet that you will need to back off the Adjusters. Had
to do that on my Ranger as well.

Other hints:
Remove the cover from the fluid reservoir so that when you are taking it
off the cylinder can push some fluid back and have a little more give. Just
make sure you put a clean rag over it to keep dirt from getting into the
fluid.
Get a rubber mallet (Don't use metal as it could crack the drum) and use
it to pound on the drum (face and sides) to help loosen any brake residue or
rust that has accumulated on the mating surfaces making it harder to get the
brakes off.

>Date: Thu, 11 Nov 1999 23:45:55 -0500
>From: "David A. Cooley"
>Subject: Re: FTE Small - Brake Drums

>At 08:18 PM 11/11/99 -0800, you wrote:
...
>>I would like to remove the drums to replace the rear shoes, but I can't
>>seem to get at them. Any suggestions? Is there some kind of tool that I
>>need to get this done?
...
>May have to get in thru the adjustor slot in the backing plate and back off

>the adjustment to let the shoes come in away from the drum. Drums get a
>little worn then the shoes ride in the groove and have to be backed off to
>get the drum off.
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 99 14:01:06 -0600
From: "matthew.noffsinger"
Subject: FTE Small - Door Adjar warning FIXED!!!

OK everyone, my door adjar warning light is fixed. It was covered under
warrenty of course too. I didn't get to talk to the mechanic who did the
work, but the person who told me my truck was fixed said that both switches in
the door were replaced. It looked like greasy fingerprints on my armrests, so
I assume that there is some type of switch in the inner door panel that was
replaced. I hope that this helps others wanting to fix their trucks- it is
fixable.
Matt

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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 15:16:15 -0500
From: "Laura D. Wheeler"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Door Adjar warning FIXED!!!

Thanks Matt,

I have an appointment to take my ranger in Thanksgiving week, so
hopefully
i'll end up with the same result, i'll let ya know.


On Fri, 12 Nov 1999, matthew.noffsinger wrote:

> OK everyone, my door adjar warning light is fixed. It was covered under
> warrenty of course too. I didn't get to talk to the mechanic who did the
> work, but the person who told me my truck was fixed said that both switches in
> the door were replaced. It looked like greasy fingerprints on my armrests, so
> I assume that there is some type of switch in the inner door panel that was
> replaced. I hope that this helps others wanting to fix their trucks- it is
> fixable.
> Matt
>
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 10:06:49 -0800
From: rgstein pacbell.net
Subject: FTE Small - Aerostar questions

I have a '92 XLT 3.0 ordinary length.

In addition to what Tom Ucen wrote, my gut sense would be to forego the
4WD. The reason is that the basic Aerostar is complicated and hard to
work on enough without adding something that I would barely use at all.

It would be very important to buy one that was in good condition and
well-maintained. Preventive maintenance is very important for Aerostars
because repairs are usually very, very difficult, and therefore very
expensive. I have never owned a vehicle in which the engine was so
severely obstructed: this is a significant drawback. The dipsticks are
almost impossible to read.

On the other hand, I met a woman who owns an older one. She likes it,
and does all the repair work herself; finds it fairly straightforward to
work on (!). She probably has a smaller engine.

Although it is technically a truck, many of the Aerostar's parts are
anything but heavy-duty. Some of the design is downright thougtless,
cheap, and plain stupid. Some accessories are flimsy. I'd suggest
driving it with respect: don't pummel the controls (they may come off in
your hands) and don't flog it around. The front floor rolls down at the
edges so things fall out into the street when you open the door: like
that jar of mayonaise: splat, John!

Visibility to the rear and rear side quarters is terrible; I hit a
couple of things in the rear during the first few months I owned it.
Now, I just park in the back of the parking lots and don't try for small
parking spaces.

In contrast to what Tom wrote, I find the seats anti-ergonomic, and the
inflatable lumbar support positioned for a Japanese person; the seat
cannot be positioned upright enough. And the passenger seat has no
fore-aft track. I will attempt to modify my seat.

The 3.0 engine is famous around here for blowing head gaskets. Mine
cost $2,300 to replace last year, with associated repairs. According to
the Car Talk web site data, it is one of the most expensive vehicles to
own.

Having said all this, I enjoy driving the thing. I like the high sitting
position -- I like to see as far as I can down the road. It handles
better than I'd expected, although it seems to need lots of steering
correction: I don't dare remove my eyes from the road for an instant on
the freeway. The seats are sort-of OK. The built-in bed is very
comfortable, but is high, so perverts stare at me at rest stops while
I'm resting my back. It has a lot of room inside, but there's
absolutely no compartments to store anything! I acquired mine with a
"towing package" and a frame hitch, so the micky-mouse "spare tire"
rides inside with the passengers.

Would I buy another Aerostar? When everything is working fine, yes.
Whenever a repair has to be done, I hate the d**n thing.

I'd suggest that you drive a few and see what you think. There were
some re-designs for 1992, including the suspension, but I'm not clear on
this.

In closing, I want to get my hands on the CEO of Ford. I'd chain the
b*****d to my steering wheel with just enough slack so he could check
the dipsticks. I'd dress him in an expensive suit, so he'd get to know
how it feels to flick transmission fluid all over himself from the long,
floppy dipstick while he tried, over and over again, to find the fluid
level on its cheap, embossed markings. He'd have to drive constantly.
After a month of this, I'd force him to replace the spark plugs.

Oh, is this turning into a rant?
I'll just stop..............................

Richard

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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 16:16:17 -0500 (EST)
From: Victor L Moran
Subject: FTE Small - RE: aerostar questions

My aerostar has been great other then some problems due to its age.

It's strong points are: cargo space is huge, seating position is higher
then most minivans and suv's (only excluding suburbans and expeditions)
, engine can take a beating (although my 3.0 is not the strongest engine),
the windows are easy to change (the rear side windows are bolt in), spare
parts are plentiful, and short length makes them a breeze to park in a
congested city.

It's weak points are a cramped engine compartment, a tranny that
supposedly is weak (in a 2wd setup), very little amounts of space to
hide things inside the van when parked, a parking brake that tends to
stop working (because a cable gets lose), rust forming water pockets in
the lower half of the body and a tendency to blow the rear main around
100,000 miles.

If you decide to get one (I recommend it) I would either have a
knowledgeable shop fill in the part of the body that holds water to keep
rust away, or do what I did and put running boards on your van. My aero*
has 125000 on it and not a bit of rust in the undercarriage or any of the
usual spots. I am developing a little bit on the drivers door but I think
that I scratched the paint, (so my own fault).

Another thing that I would do is go the the alldata site and look at the
TSB's for the particular drivetrain and model that you are interested in.
That will tell you how many problems exist in that car. Keep in mind that
just because there are alot of TSB's at alldata for the aerostar not all
are problems. Some are mechanic instructions and other things to look out
for when working on your van (in other words: tips).

The mechanic that takes care of mine (a 1987 3.0 liter) owns a 199? 4.0
4WD model and loves it.

I have heard that there are problems with the 4WD version so you might
want to look in the archives of the list and try to find some more data.
Just a few days ago we were having quite a discussion on the aerostar.
Some neg. some pos. look for posts that being with 'spark plugs'. That's
how they got started.

Good luck with what ever you decide to get.
Victor.


P.S. I use my van for lots of long distance trips. NYC to buffalo, NYC
to Pittsburgh, NYC to toronto, always very comfortable. During the NYC
to Buffalo trips the van is usually loaded with the contents of two
dormitory rooms and she handles just fine. Snow with an empty body tends
to make her slip though. Strong winds tend to push her around too.

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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 20:03:41 -0500
From: Ken Payne
Subject: FTE Small - ADMIN: the SPAM

To all Ford Truck Enthusiasts list members:

A spammer subscribed to all our mailing lists and
managed to post his garbage to two of the lists
before I managed to put a halt to it. As you may
know, we take measures to fight spam and protect
email addresses, including, but not limited to, use
of a robots.txt exclusion file, POP before sendmail
confirmation, subscription confirmation for the
discussion groups and blocking web access to known
email harvesting sites.

However, even with all these measures, there is
nothing that can be done against a spammer who
subscribes, confirms the subscription and then
spam. The spammer has been blocked from the lists
so they cannot post again. We have, however, not
unsubscribed them. This means they cannot unsubsribe
and will have to find a way to deal with the 100s
of emails the live lists sends out.

Please do not make the problem worse by posting about
it here, the issue has been resolved. I strongly
urge you to send email the spammers TRUE email address
at ldchen webresearch.8m.com and express your thoughts.

We are preparing a bill for them for the time spent
to block their email address and to clean up their
spam from the lists. We've notified them that we
will seek a small claims case if we are not paid since
the FAQ clearly states that anyone who spams the lists
will be billed for the cleanup.

Ken Payne
Admin, Ford Truck Enthusiasts
http://www.ford-trucks.com


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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 21:50:01 -0500
From: Geoffrey Hoffman
Subject: FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions

hey, I am about to drop in a vortech supercharger, but I had some
questions about the fuel pump and stuff like that.

First off, this is a 93 explorer, with the older (pushrod) V-6.

The thing calls for putting in another fuel pump in line, and it
basically mounts right where the filter is (on the rail, under the
driver)

Anyway, the question is how to power this thing:

Does the fuel pump in the explorer go on and off as fuel pressure is
needed, or is it always on? (I had heard that with some cars, the
fuel pump comes on and off). Looking at the electrical drawings in
the manual shows that the sender circuit for it goes through the PCM
computer thing, and I have no idea how that behaves.

Any ideas? my thought was that I was just going to hook this fuel
pump up to the same line that powers the original one. (This has the
advantage of it following what the other does, such as cutting out
when the inertia switch hits)

But, the reason I am supposed to put this in is to raise the fuel
pressure in the line, and if it cuts out when the computer thinks it
could, then I will not get enough fuel in the engine.

I dunno, slightly confused about this, since the vortech docs are
pretty light about this. anyone put this in and have any other
suggestions? they say to do it off the AC line, but that sounds like
a hack.
+-----------------------------------------------------------+
Geoffrey Hoffman http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pobox.com/~hoffy/
ICQ: 10113556 hoffy ford-trucks.com
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 22:04:44 -0500
From: "David A. Cooley"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions

At 09:50 PM 11/12/99 -0500, you wrote:
>hey, I am about to drop in a vortech supercharger, but I had some
>questions about the fuel pump and stuff like that.
>
>First off, this is a 93 explorer, with the older (pushrod) V-6.
>
>The thing calls for putting in another fuel pump in line, and it basically
>mounts right where the filter is (on the rail, under the driver)
>
>Anyway, the question is how to power this thing:
>
>Does the fuel pump in the explorer go on and off as fuel pressure is
>needed, or is it always on? (I had heard that with some cars, the fuel
>pump comes on and off). Looking at the electrical drawings in the manual
>shows that the sender circuit for it goes through the PCM computer thing,
>and I have no idea how that behaves.


On Fuel injected cars, the fuel pump runs whenever the car is running.


>Any ideas? my thought was that I was just going to hook this fuel pump up
>to the same line that powers the original one. (This has the advantage of
>it following what the other does, such as cutting out when the inertia
>switch hits)


Can't power it off the same line as the stock pump... Will blow the fuse,
the wire is too small for 2 etc... Tap into the stock pumps wire, run it
to a 30 amp relay. Other side of the relay coil to ground. One side of
the N.O. contact to +12 at the battery THRU A FUSE (inline is great) then
the Wiper of the relay to the new FP, other side of the new FP to
ground. This way, the relay get's tripped when the factory pump get's
power and that puts power to the new pump.
Make sure the new pump is between the gas tank and the filter, not the
filter and the engine.

===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 23:26:06 -0600
From: Scott Ford
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions

Geoffrey Hoffman wrote:
>
> hey, I am about to drop in a vortech supercharger, but I had some
> questions about the fuel pump and stuff like that.
>
> First off, this is a 93 explorer, with the older (pushrod) V-6.
>
> The thing calls for putting in another fuel pump in line, and it
> basically mounts right where the filter is (on the rail, under the
> driver)
>
> Anyway, the question is how to power this thing:

I would highly recommend buying a higher output in-tank pump, if you
like your
peace and quiet. The add in pump that comes with that kit is extremely
LOUD. It could
be heard before the dual exhaust and the supercharger whine, from quite
a ways a way.
to the point that it was embarrassing.
I helped a buddy put this kit on his '98 Ranger 4.0(it was the '92->'94
kit, which presented
its own set of problems) We were able to remove the auxiliary pump, as
the factory pump on the
'98 with returnless fuel system is apparently powerful enough by itself,
or at least that is
what Steeda said, but that is not the case with yours.

BTW we powered it by running a lead to the big fuse block under the
hood. just find one that
is only hot when the key is on and you are fine.
>
> Does the fuel pump in the explorer go on and off as fuel pressure is
> needed, or is it always on? (I had heard that with some cars, the
> fuel pump comes on and off). Looking at the electrical drawings in
> the manual shows that the sender circuit for it goes through the PCM
> computer thing, and I have no idea how that behaves.

I believe the one in your explorer is the always on type. The new
returnless
systems have a variable output pump, that maintains a constant pressure
without
separate pressure regulator.

>
> Any ideas? my thought was that I was just going to hook this fuel
> pump up to the same line that powers the original one. (This has the
> advantage of it following what the other does, such as cutting out
> when the inertia switch hits)

This is a good idea, but I would definitely use a relay, and only use
the factory
lead as the trigger to the relay, so that you don't drain power from the
factory pump.
we were going to do this, before we found that he didn't need the extra
pump.

>
> But, the reason I am supposed to put this in is to raise the fuel
> pressure in the line, and if it cuts out when the computer thinks it
> could, then I will not get enough fuel in the engine.

Well, the extra pump doesn't raise the pressure, as the pressure
regulator on the
fuel rail of your explorer maintains a constant pressure. What the extra
pump does
is supply enough fuel at high rpms to maintain that minimum pressure at
your pressure
regulator so that the engine doesn't run lean, which causes detonation
which leads to
very bad things, especially on a supercharged engine.


>
> I dunno, slightly confused about this, since the vortech docs are
> pretty light about this. anyone put this in and have any other
> suggestions? they say to do it off the AC line, but that sounds like
> a hack.

I would check out a 190lph '86>'93 Mustang fuel pump. they are about $80
and would mount in your fuel tank, so it would be quieter, and work
exactly
like the factory pump. the 190 would provide plenty of fuel for your
engine,
probably about double the factory pump, and 35 lb/hr more than the pump
that came
with the kit. It would require a bit more work, but I think it would be
worth it.


Good luck, you'll need it:)

- --
_________________________________________________________________________
'99 Ranger 4X4 Scott Ford
sford umr.edu
'86 Mustang GT Member
'56 Ford F-100 Alpha Psi chapter
Theta Xi Fraternity

http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.umr.edu/~sford
http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.umr.edu/~thetaxi
"Whether you think you can, or think you can't, you are right" Henry
Ford
_________________________________________________________________________
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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 21:51:15 -0800
From: Adam McLaughlin
Subject: FTE Small - Reliable Motors

Has anyone yet to have their 4.0 turn 300,000 miles?

I'm considering swaping one in for my 2.9 in my BII, and I want to know
how long they go, and what condition are they in at their age. Here's my
experience with 2.9s.

I have a 1988 BII 2.9 that just turned 166,000 miles. It burns no Mobile
1 synthetic oil, and it doesn't leak any either. That's a maintained
ford for you.

I have a friend who has a 1989 2.9 in his Ranger pickup that burns/drips
about half of a quart of oil every few months. We can't tell you how
much across an oil change, because this motor hasn't had it's oil
changed in 120,000 miles. The odomoter has now climbed to 217,000 miles.
He hasn't changed his oil or filter since it was under 100,000 miles!!

My friend at work has a 2.9 that is in his 1987 Ranger STX 4x4. It just
turned 400,000 miles, and it uses/drips a quarter of a quart of oil
across a 3000 mile oil change. It leaks mostly from the valve covers.
The actual amount of burning we can't tell since the oil comes from out
of the valve covers.

At the local Ford Dealership they have a 2.9 on display. The placard
says that it has turned half of a million miles, and the compression is
like 94% of new!!

So, what are your experiences with your 4.0s? Are they as reliable and
dependable as the 2.9s?

Thanks,

Adam



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Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 21:53:46 -0800
From: Adam McLaughlin
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Brake Drums

Yes, I let the emergency brake off. Which direction do I need to turn the adjust
back behind the drum to get them to back off?

Adam, kd6poc

"David A. Cooley" wrote:

> At 08:18 PM 11/11/99 -0800, you wrote:
> >How do you get the drumscover off of the brake shoes? I have a 1988 BII,
> >and I try to remove the drum to get a look at the shoes, and this is how
> >it goes. I jack up the rear end, put stands on the frame, I take off the
> >wheel, then start pulling on the drum, but nothing happens. Is there
> >some kind of trick to getting it off?
> >
> >I would like to remove the drums to replace the rear shoes, but I can't
> >seem to get at them. Any suggestions? Is there some kind of tool that I
> >need to get this done?
>
> You did release the emergency brake, right???
> May have to get in thru the adjustor slot in the backing plate and back off
> the adjustment to let the shoes come in away from the drum. Drums get a
> little worn then the shoes ride in the groove and have to be backed off to
> get the drum off.
>
> ===========================================================
> David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
> Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
> Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
> ===========================================================
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 01:43:00 -0500
From: Geoffrey Hoffman
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions

At 11:26 PM -0600 11/12/99, Scott Ford wrote:
>I would highly recommend buying a higher output in-tank pump, if you
>like your
>peace and quiet. The add in pump that comes with that kit is extremely
>LOUD. It could

i noticed that when i tried playing with it a while ago.

>I would check out a 190lph '86>'93 Mustang fuel pump. they are about $80
>and would mount in your fuel tank, so it would be quieter, and work
>exactly
>like the factory pump. the 190 would provide plenty of fuel for your
>engine,
>probably about double the factory pump, and 35 lb/hr more than the pump
>that came
>with the kit. It would require a bit more work, but I think it would be
>worth it.
>
>
>Good luck, you'll need it:)

thanks, man. one thing i was thinking of doing was putting a new
tank anyway, since i hate only having 300 of range on a tank, so, if
the fuel pump bugs me, i may def. do that together.

and we think the '93 'stang pump will work with my explorer? not
sure how close they are, one would think they will be the same.

how easy is it to drop the tank and do this? it does not look to
hard, but that can be deceiving. it just looks like loosening the
straps and bolts, and dropping it out.

thanks a lot for your help. looking forward to doing this. :)
+-----------------------------------------------------------+
Geoffrey Hoffman http://www.ford-trucks.com//lc/lc.php?action=do&link=http://www.pobox.com/~hoffy/
ICQ: 10113556 hoffy ford-trucks.com
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Date: Sat, 13 Nov 1999 01:36:39 -0500
From: Geoffrey Hoffman
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Explorer Fuel Pump questions

At 10:04 PM -0500 11/12/99, David A. Cooley wrote:
>On Fuel injected cars, the fuel pump runs whenever the car is running.

alright, that is what i thought, since there is the return line. it
is up to the computer and the injectors to regulate what goes into
the engine.

>Can't power it off the same line as the stock pump... Will blow the fuse, the

i was afraid of that. i was thinking of putting a bigger fuse in,
but that is always a bad idea with stuff like this...

>wire is too small for 2 etc... Tap into the stock pumps wire, run
>it to a 30 amp relay. Other side of the relay coil to ground. One
>side of the N.O. contact to +12 at the battery THRU A FUSE (inline
>is great) then the Wiper of the relay to the new FP, other side of
>the new FP to ground. This way, the relay get's tripped when the
>factory pump get's power and that puts power to the new pump.

so, one end of the coil to the feeder to the original fuel pump, and
the other to ground? and i suppose i should use 30 amps as well for
the other pump for the new fuse, right?

does it make much of a difference which end of a relay is hooked up
to which? as long as the original->ground goes across the coil, and....


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