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Subject: small-list-digest V3 #287
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small-list-digest Wednesday, November 3 1999 Volume 03 : Number 287



=======================================================================
Ford Truck Enthusiasts - Ranger, Explorer, Bronco 2 and Aerostar
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In this issue:

FTE Small - missing part
FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine
Re: FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine
AW: FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine
Re: FTE Small - missing part
FTE Small - '93 Aerostar, miscellaneous computers
Re: FTE Small - AWD comment
FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine
RE: ADMIN: DO NOT RESPOND TO: FTE Small - Aerostars Unlimited
Re: FTE Small - AWD comment
FTE Small - Converter Removal
Re: FTE Small - AWD comment
Re: FTE Small - Converter Removal
AW: FTE Small - '93 Aerostar, miscellaneous computers
AW: FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine

=======================================================================

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Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 10:19:46 -0500
From: "Steinbrook, Steve"
Subject: FTE Small - missing part

While changing the oil last weekend I noticed that it seemed like a part was
missing from my 1996 Explorer Sport. It looks like a connection from the
sway bar to the frame. It is on one side but not the other. It is a small
piece about 8 inches long that connects what I believe is the sway bar.
Should I just take it to the shop and have them look at it? It appears very
simple to replace if I just got the part. Also, if I replace the stock
shocks with new ones, probably Edelbrocks, is it worth changing the springs?
What will changing the springs do for the truck? Thanks in advance for any
advice.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 16:53:34 +0100
From: ThomasUcen premiereworld.de
Subject: FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine

Hi folks,

I've got a starting problem with my 1993 3.0L engine (in an Aerostar). When
the engine is hot she just takes a long time to start, stalling a few times
in between. I already had this problem since the summer but had no time to
take care of it. Now that it's cold outside I only have the problem when I
park with the hot engine in a garage and then try to restart. What could
that be? The fuel pressure regulator? I changed it last year when looking
for another problem not related to this one.

Thanks for any input!

Tom
1993 Aerostar 3.0L
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 09:13:56 -0700
From: Cliff Cameron
Subject: Re: FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine

Sounds like fuel delivery from the low pressure pump in the tank - assuming the same system as my BII. Before you
remove the tank and replace the pump, check that the wiring is good, including the connector pin soldered to the tank.
I chased this problem for months! Also, check your filter. I believe that the high pressure pump can pull form the
tank under most conditions, but when it gets hot, it'll vapor lock.

ThomasUcen premiereworld.de wrote:

> Hi folks,
>
> I've got a starting problem with my 1993 3.0L engine (in an Aerostar). When
> the engine is hot she just takes a long time to start, stalling a few times
> in between. I already had this problem since the summer but had no time to
> take care of it. Now that it's cold outside I only have the problem when I
> park with the hot engine in a garage and then try to restart. What could
> that be? The fuel pressure regulator? I changed it last year when looking
> for another problem not related to this one.



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 17:40:02 +0100
From: ThomasUcen premiereworld.de
Subject: AW: FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine

Hi,

thanks for the answer. I replaced the fuel pump and filter last year but
I'll check the wiring. Do you mean the pump does that when hot? I thought it
would be cold at most times since it's immersed in cold fuel.



Cliff Cameron wrote:

Sounds like fuel delivery from the low pressure pump in the tank - assuming
the same system as my BII. Before you
remove the tank and replace the pump, check that the wiring is good,
including the connector pin soldered to the tank.
I chased this problem for months! Also, check your filter. I believe that
the high pressure pump can pull form the
tank under most conditions, but when it gets hot, it'll vapor lock.

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 09:16:25 -0800
From: "Hans Luckoff"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - missing part

I think your talking about the piece that connects the end of the swaybar to
the lower suspension arm, it's like a long bolt about a 1/4in in diameter,
four rubber bushings and four washers and a hug nut go with it. You can get
the parts at Ford and do it yourself. Hans
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Steinbrook, Steve
To: 'ford trucks'
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 7:19 AM
Subject: FTE Small - missing part


> While changing the oil last weekend I noticed that it seemed like a part
was
> missing from my 1996 Explorer Sport. It looks like a connection from the
> sway bar to the frame. It is on one side but not the other. It is a
small
> piece about 8 inches long that connects what I believe is the sway bar.
> Should I just take it to the shop and have them look at it? It appears
very
> simple to replace if I just got the part. Also, if I replace the stock
> shocks with new ones, probably Edelbrocks, is it worth changing the
springs?
> What will changing the springs do for the truck? Thanks in advance for
any
> advice.
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>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 09:54:44 -0800
From: rgstein pacbell.net
Subject: FTE Small - '93 Aerostar, miscellaneous computers

Tom Ucen wrote (contains my quote):

it's the antilock brake computer module, neatly bolted right
below the ash tray. You can easily find the antilock brake computer: =
it
is a black slab that says "Mexico" on it.

I thought this $%&=A7 thing preventing me to take off the engine cover =
was the
computer regulating emmission control etc. Where is that part then?

Tom

My reply ----------------------------------------------------------

Tom, that's the main computer, and I think it is located in the engine
compartment, stage left, in the general vicinity of the code reader
connectors. These vehicles have a few different computers, located I
don't know where until I need to find out.

When I began trying (sweating and cursing) to remove the engine cover,
it dawned on me that that black box would have to come out. But, I
wanted to know what it was before messing with it. So, I went to my
Haynes and my ##) $! Alldata/Popular Mechanics CD ROM, and after about
an hour of slogging through this disorganized mess, I found it on one of
the blurry diagrams.

Richard

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 13:45:04 -0600
From: Mike Harms
Subject: Re: FTE Small - AWD comment

First off, no one with All wheel drive is going to "blow" a hub. The hubs
on AWD vehicles are just hunks of steel attached to the axle shaft with
grade 8 bolts and hardened steel splines. If anything breaks there, you are
at fault, or it's a manufacturing defect. (More often the axle shaft will
twist before the hub will strip out or come apart.)

Second, it is true that these days (not counting pre 76 full size AWD
trucks) an AWD truck is more likely than not going to be weaker than a
vehicle fitted with a manual 4wd system. Of course, a manual 4wd system has
the potential to be strong, but only as strong as the manufacturer decides
to make it.

At issue is gear design. For AWD you need multiple differentials (front -
rear - center). The only way to make these tough is to put metal in them
which makes them heavy and bulky and thus not real well suited for the
applications they place AWD systems in. Thus many AWD systems in cars and
minivans are not remarkably strong systems. There are two AWD systems out
there that are very strong, light and compact. One is a special mechanical
diff that I can't recall (Researched it: TORSEN) the name of. It is
mechanically complex, but very nearly bulletproof and shows up in some
performance AWD cars. The other is the viscous coupling similar to what
Audi uses in their Quattro products. The viscous coupling is unbelievably
strong, especially when you consider it is a liquid. In addition such
couplings are easy on driveline components as they have a little give in
them that can absorb shock quite well.

Now there is some question of strength on the "Shift on the Fly" 4wd systems
as well. To allow for "Shift on the Fly" gears have to be helical cut to
allow for them to engage at speed without destroying themselves. Helical
cut gears have less metal in the teeth and as such are more likely to be
damaged due to a shock load where a straight cut gear wouldn't.


>Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 12:05:23 EST
>From: "Joe Gill"
>Subject: Re: FTE Small - AWD comment
...
>know of people with the automatic part time four wheel drive systems
>who live in Colorodo and use them very often in the snow who have very
>low miles von their vehicles and have blown hubs and other components more
>than once.
...
>It's been to my understanding that the manual systems are much stronger
>and hold up twice as long as any of the automatic systems. This is all
>coming from fourwheeling (mud only) experience. That's my 2 cents.


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 13:04:38 -0700
From: Cliff Cameron
Subject: FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine

The in tank pump is immersed, but the high pressure pump (probably mounted somewhere on the frame close to the front) is
not. It seems to vapor lock when it gets hot under the truck.

ThomasUcen premiereworld.de wrote:

> Hi,
>
> thanks for the answer. I replaced the fuel pump and filter last year but
> I'll check the wiring. Do you mean the pump does that when hot? I thought it
> would be cold at most times since it's immersed in cold fuel.



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 10:25:40 -0800
From: rgstein pacbell.net
Subject: RE: ADMIN: DO NOT RESPOND TO: FTE Small - Aerostars Unlimited

On the late departed Joe Gill:

Let us pause, for a moment, and reflect. Somewhere out there in the
wilds of America, Joe lives on, terrorizing all within earshot:
unmuffled explosions shaking the houses; uncatalyzed, fouling the air
that we all share. In pubescent mating ritual fueled by excess
testosterone, he drives, blasting and gasping, into the night.

Richard

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 16:00:33 -0500
From: Dave Slotter
Subject: Re: FTE Small - AWD comment

At 7:50 PM -0700 10/30/99, meb8100 wrote:

>If you don't use part-time 4x4 enough, things can get rusty from
>lack of lube. I observed this on used vehicle purchase, I try to
>run the front system on a part-time 4x4 on occasion.

I have a 1986 2.9 BII whose tranny I recently swapped (with the
assistance of my father-in-law). When we pulled the driveshaft for
the front wheels, we found that the u-joint was locked up completely
(from lack of use and the severe weather/salt. We replaced the
u-joint as a result.

I've got a few questions regarding this:

1. If I only engage 4WD inside the cabin (without locking the hubs)
will that front driveshaft turn and lubricate its u-joint?

2. Are there other parts of the system that *aren't* being lubricated
since I'm not locking the hubs? (And of course, should I lock the
hubs to help lubricate these parts?)

3. If I engage the front hubs but leave the vehicle in 2 WD, it
appears that my mpg drops as a result. Is this just a result of
friction? Also, is this harmful to the truck?

I would appreciate all insight regarding this.

Of course, as Pittsburgh (where I live) is supposed to get snow
tomorrow, I will likely be engaging the manual hubs tomorrow.

- -Dave
- --

ICQ# 16458879 AOL/AIM ID: "Mac XR"
1986 Ford Bronco II Gray Manual 2.9 V6 125K Pittsburgh PA

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 16:03:31 EST
From: Blest25913 aol.com
Subject: FTE Small - Converter Removal

In a message dated 10/31/99 5:42:33 AM,
owner-small-list-digest ford-trucks.com writes:


Subject: FTE Small - 84 B2 help

Last week I removed my catalytic converter from my 84 B2 4X4 V6. I cut
through the pipe that connected to it. And 2 days later it wont start.
I am assuming its because of what i did. When I try to start it, it
chugs and sounds like it wants to go but doesnt. Any ideas?
>>

IMHO I don't think that cutting out the converter is the reason for it not
starting. I've heard of catalytic converters being removed and a straight
piece of pipe being welded in its place. I plan on doing this in the future.
However, I have heard that an exhaust system needs a certain amount of 'back
pressure' for the engine to operate efficiently.
Ron Trampe
'99 Ranger 4X4 3.0
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 16:39:55 -0500
From: "Rob Hatfield"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - AWD comment

My experience with 4wd is as follows. Engaging 4wd inside the cab
won't really help keep things lubricated. Engaging the hubs once in
awhile will. As you noted you lose MPG when hubs are engaged even
though in 2wd. This is because you are now turning all the components
even though you are only in 2wd. I always engage the hubs in 2wd mode
every so often to keep things lubricated. It seems to have worked well
for me as I have had several high mileage trucks that never have any
problem with the 4wd system.

Hope this helps.

Rob

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Slotter
To:
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 1999 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: FTE Small - AWD comment


> At 7:50 PM -0700 10/30/99, meb8100 wrote:
>
> >If you don't use part-time 4x4 enough, things can get rusty from
> >lack of lube. I observed this on used vehicle purchase, I try to
> >run the front system on a part-time 4x4 on occasion.
>
> I have a 1986 2.9 BII whose tranny I recently swapped (with the
> assistance of my father-in-law). When we pulled the driveshaft for
> the front wheels, we found that the u-joint was locked up completely
> (from lack of use and the severe weather/salt. We replaced the
> u-joint as a result.
>
> I've got a few questions regarding this:
>
> 1. If I only engage 4WD inside the cabin (without locking the hubs)
> will that front driveshaft turn and lubricate its u-joint?
>
> 2. Are there other parts of the system that *aren't* being lubricated
> since I'm not locking the hubs? (And of course, should I lock the
> hubs to help lubricate these parts?)
>
> 3. If I engage the front hubs but leave the vehicle in 2 WD, it
> appears that my mpg drops as a result. Is this just a result of
> friction? Also, is this harmful to the truck?
>
> I would appreciate all insight regarding this.
>
> Of course, as Pittsburgh (where I live) is supposed to get snow
> tomorrow, I will likely be engaging the manual hubs tomorrow.
>
> -Dave
> --
>

> ICQ# 16458879 AOL/AIM ID: "Mac
XR"
> 1986 Ford Bronco II Gray Manual 2.9 V6 125K Pittsburgh PA
>
> == FTE: Uns*bscribe and posting info http://www.ford-trucks.com/faq.html
>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Nov 1999 18:19:23 -0500
From: "David A. Cooley"
Subject: Re: FTE Small - Converter Removal

At 04:03 PM 11/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>IMHO I don't think that cutting out the converter is the reason for it not
>starting. I've heard of catalytic converters being removed and a straight
>piece of pipe being welded in its place. I plan on doing this in the future.
>However, I have heard that an exhaust system needs a certain amount of 'back
>pressure' for the engine to operate efficiently.


That's an old wives tale...
4 cycle engines are most efficient with minimum back pressure, and with a
properly designed header system, there is even vacuum at the exhaust port
just before the valve opens to extract all the burnt gasses. With
carbureted vehicles, if you opened up the exhaust and didn't re-jet the
carb, you'd run too lean and yes, you'd have to have some backpressure to
make the mixture right without rejetting...
With EFI, the O2 sensors can tell the computer it's lean (for whatever
reason... open exhaust etc) and the computer will richen the mixture to
compensate.

===========================================================
David Cooley N5XMT Internet: N5XMT bellsouth.net
Packet: N5XMT KQ4LO.#INT.NC.USA.NA T.A.P.R. Member #7068
Sponges grow in the ocean... Wonder how deep it would be if they didn't?!
===========================================================
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:27:00 +0100
From: ThomasUcen premiereworld.de
Subject: AW: FTE Small - '93 Aerostar, miscellaneous computers

Hi Richard,

welcome to the club! The Ford designers knew how to make life miserable to
people trying to repair their Aerostars themselves. Before you told me the
black box was the ABS computer, I really thought this was the engine
computer. I did not pull the connector, just took it off the console and
left it hanging where it was.

Tom
1993 Aerostar 3.0L Ext.

- --------------------------------------------------------
Richard wrote:

When I began trying (sweating and cursing) to remove the engine cover,
it dawned on me that that black box would have to come out. But, I
wanted to know what it was before messing with it. So, I went to my
Haynes and my ##) $! Alldata/Popular Mechanics CD ROM, and after about
an hour of slogging through this disorganized mess, I found it on one of
the blurry diagrams.

Richard

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Nov 1999 09:40:09 +0100
From: ThomasUcen premiereworld.de
Subject: AW: FTE Small - hard starting 3.0L engine

Oh, is there a second pump? When I follow the frame to the engine, there is
the filter and....I have to take another look. I'll replace the tailpipe on....


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